john1957 Posted July 2, 2015 Report Posted July 2, 2015 Ok I got some feedback on using the stock front suspension on this car. Has anyone used the r&p kit from rusty hope ? Need some leads for motor mounts for 318. Quote
james curl Posted July 3, 2015 Report Posted July 3, 2015 Several people here on the forum have used the R&P kit from Fatman. They all seem to be about the same, one thing to remember is that the steering g arms on the old MoPars are longer than the arms on new cars. When you install the rack you will have limited travel in your turning radius because of the difference in arm length. You should be able to get 23 degrees of travel on the inside wheel and 20 degrees of travel on the outside wheel. This is the standard wheel movement for Ackerman steering which all cars use in some modified form. Quote
falconvan Posted July 4, 2015 Report Posted July 4, 2015 Butch's cool stuff makes a bolt in motor mount, I think. Quote
john1957 Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Posted July 9, 2015 As I get more imfo. The parts list is growing ! Being told oil pan and exaust manifolds will need to be changed for r&p to clear. Has anyone done a build on a 41 style frame with a 318 ? Quote
Andydodge Posted July 9, 2015 Report Posted July 9, 2015 John, my Oz 1940 Dodge(Plymouth based, see fenders etc) has had a 318 poly , rack & pinion etc since 1973.......I made the mounts etc, its not difficult so long as you can weld...lol......I used a 9" narrowed Austin 1800 rack& pinion and it works fine, however the centre steered Cavalier rack would be my choice if doing it again, as for the disc setup, again I used Oz stuff so that's not much help, however getting back to the 318 install...from what I have seen if you want to keep the original steering and column its doable but you will have to mount the engine/box about 1-2" to the passenger side, this is not a great problem however I'm sure there are a few different kits etc to make it easier, if you decide to change the steering & brakes then that's fine, its just that you need to be aware of all the resulting changes that will need to be done.........changed brakes will need a different master cylinder, & booster install, engine/gearbox change means maybe steering change and/or at least a diff/rear brake change to accommodate the engine power and emergency/handbrake install............so anythings possible and doable..........lol..............regards, andyd Quote
Andydodge Posted July 9, 2015 Report Posted July 9, 2015 Heres one way a guy here in Oz has addressed the steering problem using the Cavalier rack.......notice that the steering arm is moved forward, effectively "shortening" its length from the kingpin centreline to its end and therefore allowing the shorter throw rack to give better steering circle.........andyd Quote
1941Rick Posted July 9, 2015 Report Posted July 9, 2015 where ever there is a will there is a way..... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 9, 2015 Report Posted July 9, 2015 wherever there is a will...there is usually a dead body... Quote
Andydodge Posted July 10, 2015 Report Posted July 10, 2015 I'f I had seen this method 35yrs ago its what I would have used........instead I got an automotive blacksmith to shorten, weld and reforge the arms about 2" but will deny ever saying this...................lol.........moving the arm forward is actually a very smart way to get the steering circle back........andyd . Quote
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