California Gas - gggggrrrrr!!!!!

[mattimuss]

Y'all know what I'm growling about...

 

So, class ended last night and to celebrate I decided to go work on the car.  However, when I went to start it she ran terribly and there was gas dripping from the middle of the carb.  I know, I let the car set un-started too long.

 

I pulled to carb and took it apart.  The jet was almost completely clogged.  I cleaned everything up and let it all dry out overnight.  I put the carb back together this afternoon, put it back on the engine, connected everything and she's running nicely again.

 

The one major thing I learned is that this is not an extremely complicated carb, bonus!  I actually think I can handle maintenance/rebuilds as needed.

 

I also learned that it is a Carter Ball & Ball carb [see pics].

 

Now my questions:

 

1.  Which model BB carb is it?

 

2.  Should I purchase a rebuild kit to have on hand or are they easily available?

 

Thanks in advance for any/all assistance.

 

Now, onto the brakes!

[Phil363]

That is one nice looking B&B carb

 

Your 1st photo has the model number which is DTB3R.  Rebuild kits are easy to purchase from a couple of the vendors that advertise on the forum.  Just use the model number when selecting the correct rebuild kit for your vehicle.  I personally just keep an extra gasket on hand for the carb incase I need to go in an do any maintenance to either the float or jet area.  

 

I attached a page showing that this model carb was used on some earlier Dodge Truck models.  Some of the more experienced forum members may be able to tell you more about this exact model.

Edited May 14, 2015 by Phil363

[mattimuss]

Thanks Phil!

 

I had it professionally rebuilt not long ago.  Now that I have taken it apart I feel a lot more comfortable working on it.

I'll be looking into finding a rebuilt kit to have on hand.

 

I think I'm going to put a shut-off valve somewhere in the fuel line, probably between the fuel pump and carb, so that I can run the carb dry after each use to prevent this from happening again.  If I remember correctly [hearing this from my Gramps] it's not good to run the fuel pump dry after each drive.  Don't hold me to this as it's been years since we have talked about this.

[Captain Neon]

It sounds like you need to use Sta-Bil and install an inline fuel filter.  I've been running ethanol-blended fuel for over 17 years and the only problem that I have ever had was an accelerator pump failure, but I have no idea how old the accelerator pump was before it failed.  55 years?

[mattimuss]

Hey Cap,

 

The sad thing is I did indeed put Sta-Bil in the gas...and ran the engine for a while to make sure that the treated gas got up into the carb.

[Captain Neon]

What about the inline fuel filter?  The Sta-Bil will only keep good gas from going bad for two years.  It will not turn varnish back to good gasoline.  My P15 sat for 15 years before we bought it, gets put away every winter, sat for three years filled with Minnesota E-10 from '97 to '00, and I have never had a fuel related issue.  I'm also obsessive about using carburetor cleaner in the gas at the beginning of the season, and any time that I'm going on a trip of ~200 miles or more.  If you are going to go to the trouble of plumbing in a shut-off valve you might as well do something that will actually do some good and install an inline fuel filter too.

[mattimuss]

Hey Cap,

 

Already ahead of you.  When I cleaned the fuel system last year I installed a new inline fuel filter.  Tank has been serviced, lines cleaned, carb rebuilt.

 

It's CA gas...

[likaleica]

Hi guys, we have similar gas issues here in the UK. Most people reckon our fuel is good for only between 4-6 months. A fellow Mustang owner advised using Super Unleaded (98 Octane) fuel rather than the standard 95 Octane Unleaded.  We still have a very few filling stations that stock good old fashioned Four Star Leaded fuel - but last time I checked it was over 50% more expensive than Unleaded which is very costly itself. Is this the same Stateside?

[Don Coatney]

I did not think it was possible to buy leaded fuel here in the states but it appears it is popular in the racing circles. I don't think anyone outside of the racing circles would have a need for it.

 

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-fuels.html

 

http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-dealers.html

[Dave72dt]

I'm not sure about leaded, but we do have a chain up here that supplies ethanol free, 91 octane, suggested usage of high performance, motorcycles, outdoor power equipment. About 30 to 40 cents per gal higher than the 87 octane ethanol blend

[jeffsunzeri]

I did not think it was possible to buy leaded fuel here in the states but it appears it is popular in the racing circles. I don't think anyone outside of the racing circles would have a need for it.

 

You can buy leaded fuel at any airport in the U.S. It is marked "100LL" and the LL stands for Low Lead, but only in comparison to leaded fuels previously available which had much more lead.

Most all pilots of piston engine aircraft have a need for leaded fuel, unless their aircraft has a supplemental certificate permitting auto fuel to be used.

Generally, the price is about $6/gallon across the U.S.

[st63]

Since I live in Ca, I add Stabil Marine Grade and a little Marvel Mystery Oil at every fill up in my original '41 P-12. In addition to cleaning out the fuel tank and rebuilding the original Carter carb as well as installing a new fuel pump,  I use two in-line fuel filters....one just outside the tank itself, and another in the line just outside the carb. I change each one out about every 6 months. Maybe that's overkill, but it runs very smooth with no issues! It probably helps that I drive it year round...at least once a week. 

Edited July 27, 2015 by st63