Bmartin Posted April 4, 2015 Report Posted April 4, 2015 I'd like to change to a 15" wheel with wheel covers (hubcaps). The problem I am having is finding a wheel with good backspacing. I am currently running the factory wheels which are 16X4" (measured at the bead) with 3" backspacing. I can't seem to find a 15X4" with 3" or better backspacing. Seems a lot of people are running front wheel drive wheels off late model cars, but the narrowest I have found are 15X6". Even with 5.4" backspacing, they are still closer to the outer fender lip. I currently rub the fender and would like to get a better backspacing and smaller wheel/tire to fix it. And no, I do not wish to raise the ride height. Let me know if you have found any options, thanks. Quote
Seaside Pete Posted April 4, 2015 Report Posted April 4, 2015 Hi In theory the 6x15 with a 5.4" backspace should be further from the outer fender lip than a 4x16 with a 3" backspace. very basically 4" - 3" = 1" protruding, 6" - 5.4" = .6" protruding I know not by much. If you are trying a 6x15 wheel complete with tire on the car and it is hitting the fender lip then maybe a narrower tire size would solve your problem. However you would need to get as close as possible to the rolling radius of the OE tire. I could go into detail how to measure and calculate different tire sizes but you most probably know this anyway. Pete Quote
Mark D Posted April 4, 2015 Report Posted April 4, 2015 Fantastic photo bmartin. Car looks great against those mesa's. Quote
Bmartin Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Posted April 4, 2015 (edited) Hi In theory the 6x15 with a 5.4" backspace should be further from the outer fender lip than a 4x16 with a 3" backspace. very basically 4" - 3" = 1" protruding, 6" - 5.4" = .6" protruding I know not by much. If you are trying a 6x15 wheel complete with tire on the car and it is hitting the fender lip then maybe a narrower tire size would solve your problem. However you would need to get as close as possible to the rolling radius of the OE tire. I could go into detail how to measure and calculate different tire sizes but you most probably know this anyway. Pete Here is how I calculated the front spacing. Check my #'s and see if I missed anything. I did post incorrectly, the backspacing would be 4.9" on the FWD wheel. I have not bought anything to try yet, just working with numbers so far. I still need to measure the distance to the steering arm and upright in back to see if I have the room. Plus the challenge of finding one with at least a 2.75" center hole. Edited April 4, 2015 by Bmartin Quote
Bmartin Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Posted April 4, 2015 Fantastic photo bmartin. Car looks great against those mesa's. Thanks, there some great places to take pics around my house. Quote
40plyrod Posted April 5, 2015 Report Posted April 5, 2015 Great P Thanks, there some great places to take pics around my house. P1080554 - Copy (1280x960).jpg Great places to take pictures but also a great looking car to take pictures of. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 6, 2015 Report Posted April 6, 2015 Nice looking car. What is the size of your current tires.........are they radial or bias ply? They look pretty big. Quote
Bmartin Posted April 6, 2015 Author Report Posted April 6, 2015 They are currently a 16 X 6.5 bias ply. Yes, they are pretty big. From looking around, I only saw a 16 X 6 in a wide white. So thats only an inch smaller overall diameter. I was hoping to get a two inch smaller overall diameter. I also want to go with a 15" so that I can use hub caps. 1 Quote
Andydodge Posted April 6, 2015 Report Posted April 6, 2015 I used Wheel Vintique 15x6 and 15 x7 Chrome Smoothies with their standard offset, the tyres were Coker Classic 195/75x15 and 235/75 x15, the car was lowered with 1 coil cut on the front and 2" blocks on the rear.......everything cleared front & rear fenders and inner areas as well.......I ran the Wheel Vintique baby moon caps........but with a bit of fiddling the original style mopar caps could have been made to fit............andyd Quote
Bmartin Posted April 7, 2015 Author Report Posted April 7, 2015 (edited) I used Wheel Vintique 15x6 and 15 x7 Chrome Smoothies with their standard offset, the tyres were Coker Classic 195/75x15 and 235/75 x15, the car was lowered with 1 coil cut on the front and 2" blocks on the rear.......everything cleared front & rear fenders and inner areas as well.......I ran the Wheel Vintique baby moon caps........but with a bit of fiddling the original style mopar caps could have been made to fit............andyd I'm sitting a little lower than you are, 1.25 coils in front off the Moog springs and 3" posie springs in back with 3" blocks. Thanks for the info, it does help to see what others have done For everyone else, I've read that from about 49-56 Mopars came with a 15X4" wheel with 3" backspacing. Does anyone have these wheels and have the measurements from them? It woud also help to know if they fit over disk brakes (olddaddy's). Thanks. Edited April 7, 2015 by Bmartin 1 Quote
58prostreet Posted April 7, 2015 Report Posted April 7, 2015 I have a '52 dodge wayfarer with a Plydo disc brake kit that has been on it for approx. 7 years. I am running the stock wheels and they are fine. I can't remember for sure, but I may have had to grind the caliper slightly. If I did it was very little. I have a spare set of stock rims in the garage and I just came from there and they measure 15X4.5. The back space is 3 and 9/16 inch. Hope this helps. By the way, I have a daughter who lives in Mesa. Good luck. Bob Quote
Bmartin Posted April 8, 2015 Author Report Posted April 8, 2015 58prostreet, Thanks a bunch, that is very helpful. From my reading it looks like the Plydo kit is the same parts as olddaddy's so that should work. I'll need to hit the junkyards to see if I can find any. Quote
58prostreet Posted April 8, 2015 Report Posted April 8, 2015 Just as information, I bought a set of '50 Chrysler full wheel covers from Bob Taft on this forum. When I tried to install they would not go all the way on. I had to remove the dust cap and cut about 1/4" off the top dome looking shape and weld a flat cap back on. Now work fine. Quote
deathbound Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 Bmartin, how much travel (clearance) in the rear do you have before the axle hits the bump stops, with the car on the ground? How is the scrub line.....anything below the rim? Reason I ask is, I have the same springs with 1" blocks (cut down from 3"). I haven't bottomed out & was thinking about going with 2" blocks. Like the way yours sits. Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 I'm sitting a little lower than you are, 1.25 coils in front off the Moog springs and 3" posie springs in back with 3" blocks. Thanks for the info, it does help to see what others have done For everyone else, I've read that from about 49-56 Mopars came with a 15X4" wheel with 3" backspacing. Does anyone have these wheels and have the measurements from them? It woud also help to know if they fit over disk brakes (olddaddy's). Thanks. Yes, my stock 15" wheels fit easily over olddaddy's disc brakes on my 49. Quote
Bmartin Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Just as information, I bought a set of '50 Chrysler full wheel covers from Bob Taft on this forum. When I tried to install they would not go all the way on. I had to remove the dust cap and cut about 1/4" off the top dome looking shape and weld a flat cap back on. Now work fine. Are you referring to the dust cap on the front rotors? If so, let me make sure I understand. You cut the dome of the dust cap off, reduced the height by 1/4" and welded a flat top back on the dust cover? Seems straight forward enough. Any problems with the rear's? I'm still running the stock drums. Thanks. Edited April 9, 2015 by Bmartin Quote
Bmartin Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Posted April 9, 2015 Bmartin, how much travel (clearance) in the rear do you have before the axle hits the bump stops, with the car on the ground? How is the scrub line.....anything below the rim? Reason I ask is, I have the same springs with 1" blocks (cut down from 3"). I haven't bottomed out & was thinking about going with 2" blocks. Like the way yours sits. I have about 1.5" of travel before I hit the stops as it sits now. The scrub line is pretty much even with the bottom of the wheel, maybe a little below. I did have a flat in the rear and the u-bolts were almost touching the ground. So that is a concern and will have to be addressed when I go to the smaller wheel/tire combo. I'm considering pulling some leafs and changing to a 1 or 2 inch block. I bottom out in the rear on large bumps. I love the way it sits and am willing to deal with the consequences. Keep in mind, our roads are smooth as glass so I have a lot more leeway. Quote
Bmartin Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) Yes, my stock 15" wheels fit easily over olddaddy's disc brakes on my 49. Good to know, thanks for the info. Here is the layout with the stock 15" wheel. Really not much different as far as the wheel goes. Hopefully the extra tire section width won't bite me. I think that is just 1/8" of tire width for every inch of wheel width. Edited April 9, 2015 by Bmartin Quote
58prostreet Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 All correct on dust cap, except took one quarter inch, not one point four inches. sorry for confusion. You may not have same problem. Depends on how shallow wheel cover is. Bob Quote
deathbound Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 I have about 1.5" of travel before I hit the stops as it sits now. The scrub line is pretty much even with the bottom of the wheel, maybe a little below. I did have a flat in the rear and the u-bolts were almost touching the ground. So that is a concern and will have to be addressed when I go to the smaller wheel/tire combo. I'm considering pulling some leafs and changing to a 1 or 2 inch block. I bottom out in the rear on large bumps. I love the way it sits and am willing to deal with the consequences. Keep in mind, our roads are smooth as glass so I have a lot more leeway. Forgot to mention, i pulled 2 leafs out. I agree, willing to sacrifice a little ride quality for looks. Good luck on the search. Quote
Bmartin Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Posted April 9, 2015 Forgot to mention, i pulled 2 leafs out. I agree, willing to sacrifice a little ride quality for looks. Good luck on the search. Any advice on which leaves to pull, if and when I do? I'd love to see if you could assign a spring rate to each of the leaves and then decide on which to remove and which to keep. I'm also assuming that you need to keep certain leaves to keep the assmebly to together. I keep looking at doing a 4 link. But it just does not seem worth it unless you are ready to rebuild the entire rear frame and the rear floor. These frames are not setup for a notch in my opinion. Quote
Tony724 Posted April 9, 2015 Report Posted April 9, 2015 (edited) I was looking at rims on Summit. Getting a bit ahead of myself, since I need to do a lot of other work. I did see wheel vintiques. Baby moons. Does my 52 Plymouth have 5 x 4.50 bolt pattern? My concerns would be the axle nut hitting the hubcap on different style rims, and backspacing. I still have not removed my factory wheels yet though. Was hoping to go with wider rims and tires. Edited April 9, 2015 by Tony724 Quote
Bmartin Posted April 9, 2015 Author Report Posted April 9, 2015 I was looking at rims on Summit. Getting a bit ahead of myself, since I need to do a lot of other work. I did see wheel vintiques. Baby moons. Does my 52 Plymouth have 5 x 4.50 bolt pattern? My concerns would be the axle nut hitting the hubcap on different style rims, and backspacing. I still have not removed my factory wheels yet though. Was hoping to go with wider rims and tires. Yes you have 5X4.5" bolt pattern. Going wider is definitly possible if you are not lowering the car too much. Just get the proper backspacing to keep the inner wheel/tire from hitting the TRE or possibly the upright. In back, its just the inner and outer fenders that are a concern. Quote
deathbound Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 (edited) Any advice on which leaves to pull, if and when I do? I'd love to see if you could assign a spring rate to each of the leaves and then decide on which to remove and which to keep. I'm also assuming that you need to keep certain leaves to keep the assmebly to together. I keep looking at doing a 4 link. But it just does not seem worth it unless you are ready to rebuild the entire rear frame and the rear floor. These frames are not setup for a notch in my opinion. I left the very bottom shortest leaf (approx 12" long), took out the next 2 shortest, left the 4 longest. As mentioned previously, added 1" blocks too. No scrub line issues, bottom of stock u-bolts well above the bottom of the rim. My shocks were fairly new prior to this work. If you have scrub line issues now, will they be worse with 15" wheels....essentially, the center of the axle/bottom of u-bolts doesn't change, but the bottom of the rim moves up 1/2" (going from 16" to 15"). Does that sound right? Edited April 10, 2015 by deathbound Quote
deathbound Posted April 10, 2015 Report Posted April 10, 2015 Here's a link I found on the HAMB....might be helpful to you or someone else reading this thread: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-measure-your-car-for-proper-wheel-fitment.835576/ 1 Quote
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