Has anyone out there installed door poppers on a 46-48 Plymouth?

[vlhstamps]

We are trying to install door poppers on our 1948 Plymouth  and cannot get them to work. I would appreciate any and all advice.

The problem we are having is that the solenoid will not pull the latch far enough to release the door.

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

not on a Plymouth but I have on the 41 Dodge..you will not like the ones that are generally sold over the counter for the manner in which the car door and posts are assembled...this led to me devising my own popper and related parts...the mall rotor of the latch makes it a smooth post..you will have to devise a right angle..

[Dave72dt]

Often the cable is set too tight. It needs a bit of slack in it or for better description, a bit of droop so the solenoid can get a running start at pulling it. It then becomes a question of how much travel does the solenoid have and is it strong enough?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Dave addressing the cable is a part of the door latch activation..the popper I described is just that..the actual spring loaded device that moves the door once released..this device works even with the internal door opening handle yet in place and active..while both are included in some kits..some are sold separately..

 

question one..am I going to be totally dependent on electrical getting both in and out of the car or will I have override to mechanical..be sure of what you want and situations that may arise that could prevent you from either getting in or out of your own vehicle.

 

NOTE..if you want to do yourself and the install a big favor..place a stiff spring in the loop between the door latch and the popper so that any movement over and above that of opening the door is absorbed without stress on cable and mounted devices/brackets

Edited March 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[Dave72dt]

yes, proper terminology, sounded more like the latch release wasn't working

[Plymouthy Adams]

you are right Dave..he is saying poppers..but describing latch malfunction...that is why I added the note in my other reply that using a spring will allow you to active a latch with full solenoid travel with the spring absorbing that what is maybe not needed.  This is not mentioned in the kit or supplied and one that I found was suitable for my 41 Mopar...it could well apply to him in the same manner..the popper will require a 90 suface to the door post...also..if you try to mount this low to the bottom corner..it will by very spring tension bind the latch from smooth opening..this may be also a problem for him.  The surface area  of the popper needs a reactive surface area to make it work and is a bit hard to fix mount and push in the vicinity of the rotor latch..my hom built popper is not any greater in diameter than 5/15 inch

 

SO TO THE ORIGNINAL POSTER...where is you popper located in respect to the latch..if you remove the popper will the latch work right with the solenoid..eliminate the very prospect of the popper binding the latch in a twist by being too low or to high...

Edited March 21, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[vlhstamps]

Thanks for the comments. What I am having trouble with is the latch connection to the solenoid. The solenoid will not pull the door latch far enough to release the door.

I was hoping that someone had installed a kit and could give me some pointers..I would appreciate any help that you might offer.

[Plymouthy Adams]

not an uncommon problem with generic kits...where are you attaching your pull...it should be on what is the outer handle mechanism..you are shaving the outer door?   also if you have a after market supplied activation arm for the square shaft, you can shorten the throw and decrease the  needed pull length and will assist with a short throw solenoid...also be sure your solenoid is strong enough..usually the kits are over kill in this area...takes a good pull to work proper, even more with less leverage of the sharter arm...that is why most builders will eliminate the original rotor latches and install bear claw style.  They designed with spring assist opening.   Personally my upgrade I retrofitted the rear door latches from a Dodge Dynasty..couple reasons for selecting the rear one...but it allowed me to do a smooth easy change, still use the inside door handle and provides also for electric door locks as an easy mount.  As I was going remote entry..why not electric door and truck locks also..only logical..and by mention of using the rear locks...allows me to lock my car doors with glass down and still no one can reach in and use the inner door latch to open...it provide by-pass to the inner handle..I was going to sanp a pic or two but you cannot see the mechanism good...here is a shot of the solenoid and spring I mentioned...also the electric lock below that...the electric window mechanism and such prevents actual inside shot of the latch asembly

[fordkustom]

I have done this on a number of cars and can say the shaved look looks nice but what a pain. A few tips: mounting is essential for good function, the solenoid should be mounted directly bellow the door latch in a vertical fashion if you have the clearance I prefer drilling the holes for the mount in the door jam skin (not as much flex) if not then the inside skin that is covered by the door panel will work but is not as rigid.  a bolt type cable stop is a must so you can adjust the cable to have the right amount of slack keep playin with the slack until you have just enough that the latch releases then try with door closed and keep adjusting until it functions . leave enough extra cable on the solenoid end so you can cut/drill a hole in the bottom of the door and pull it out with a paper clip and have access to a mechanical override by fishing out the cable and pulling down. YOU WILL get water from rain washing car etc on the solenoid and it will rust become sticky or out right fall a part a simple sheet metal covering will reduce this but always have a spare solenoid around. get real familiar with removing your door panels on the fly for when those solenoids decide to have an attitude problem.