front fender attachment

[jpellican]

Installing front fenders on b3b. Has anybody use seam seal between fender and front clip when bolting together? How has this worked for you, or have you used some other product?

Thanks in advance

Joe p

[streamer]

I am wondering the samething. The welting on my B1B was sort of soft and spongy and compressed and filled in any small voids. I have not seen anything like that in the parts catalogs. The fender welting I got for the rear fender seems to be a vinyl that will have to be cut to make it curve. I am sure many of you have replaced the front fender welting and can steer us in the right direction. Thanks

[Merle Coggins]

The trucks didn't use fender welting. The stuff between the front fenders and the nose appeared to be some type of tar sealer on mine. I believe it was ment as an anti-squeek agent more than a sealer, but that's just a guess on my part. I would imagine that one could use an RTV silicone caulk there.

Merle

[bkahler]

The trucks didn't use fender welting. The stuff between the front fenders and the nose appeared to be some type of tar sealer on mine. I believe it was ment as an anti-squeek agent more than a sealer, but that's just a guess on my part. I would imagine that one could use an RTV silicone caulk there.

Merle

Merle, the welting between the front fender and the nose was a thin strip of butyl rubber. From what came off of my 51 it appeared to be about 1/16" thick and matched the shape of the front portion of the fender.

I'm still looking for a source for butyl rubber that thick for my truck.

Brad

[Zeke1953]

I bought some of this stuff. Haven't tried it yet, but it looks like you could mold it into any shape you need. I plan to use it between the fenders and nose piece, between the splash guards and running boards and anywhere else I see metal-to-metal contact on the body. Zeke

http://www.autopaintersupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TASI&Product_Code=3591&Category_Code=3BS

[Jim Shepard]

I'm not sure what 'butyl' rubber is, but my fenders looked like they had a piece of 1/16" flat rubber between them and the nose. If you check out the parts manual on the club website, on page 12-1 you'll see what was there originally (Part No. 12-02-11, "seal"). On the same page are listed two more "anti-squeak" gaskets that look to be made of the same material (Part No. 12-02-15). I found a very similar material at a local rubber distributor in Sacramento. I bought a roll of it and cut out my own gaskets, using the fender as a guide. I also cut out pieces to duplicate the anti-squeak gaskets that go between the fenders and the running boards at both ends. Here is the only picture I took of this gasket. You can see it hanging out from between the fender and the nose.

[streamer]

Could you give us the stock # of the material and the address of the rubber supplier or a web site?? Thanks

[Jim Shepard]

There is no stock number. It was just a roll of sheet rubber I found on a shelf at this rubber distributor. You should be able find a similar business in your area. The place here in Sacramento sells rubber hoses, floor mats, gaskets, welting, belting, fittings, gloves, boots, adhesives, sealants - just about anything made of or for rubber. They were listed in the yellow pages under "rubber products." I also found a floor matting product that I used for my floor mat. It had a foam backing and, although it isn't original, neither is anything else out there - including the stuff Roberts sells.

[Tony_Urwin]

I just received an order of truck stuff from Steele Rubber. My windshield rubber leaks and I bought new weatherstrip for the doors, too. I also bought 8 sq ft of their "masticated rubber" or anti-squeek. I think it would work OK for this purpose. It is thicker than 1/16", though. Probably 3/32 to 1/8" thick.

[grey beard]

The sealer/gasket material stuff of which we speak will not show, no matter what you use. The primary purpose for a seal at this spot is to keep mud or road splash from coming up through the seam onto the finished paint.

You may wish to consider going to your local auto body supply shop and asking for a box of 3-M Strip-Caulk, part # -08578 for black. Comes in gray as well. One box contains 60 feet of the stuff and is enough to do both front fenders, the inner fender seams where they bolt to the nose and still have enough to do your rear fender areas as well. It is very easy to use. Just stick it in place and tighten the bolts. If any squushes out when you are finished, just trim it with a knife blade. It will last until the fenders are unbolted in the NEXT restoration by your great grandson. A box costs $11.00 retail here in Pennsyltucky. JMHO:)

[streamer]

Thanks, for that info Grey Beard, I will get some of the 3-M stuff.

[Guest Dodge Joe]

That is what I used on my truck, 3-M. Got at Advance Auto.

[jpellican]

When you used the strip caulk did you apply it before painting or after? I am trying to decide if I should paint the fenders and front clip and then assemble after painting as I need to paint the firewall, cab and doors.