1950 Carburetor D6H1 & D6H2

[Lloyd]

Good morning, hope everyone is having some good holidays.

 

I am putting a 218 engine out of a 1950 into my 39 P8. Also plan on adding an overdrive R6 or R7 later on.

Right now the only carb I have is the one that came off the original 201 for the 39 which is a BB D6A2. I'm looking at rebuilding the carb and was wondering if I should try and get a carb off a later year, such as a 1950 car and use that carb instead. Are there any major changes to the carbs from 1939 to 1950? I see on one web site they have different kits but on others they sell kits that cover 1940 thru 1950 with the one kit.

Also I understand there is a kick-down switch that goes on the carb if you have an overdrive trans. Would this carb need a special fitting or mounting that allows for the kick-down switch to bolt up?

One more question, there were two number carbs used in 1950:

 

1950    6 218 P19, P20 city traffic    Carter     BBR-1                         D6N2 

1950    6 218 P19, P20                    Carter     BBR-1                         D6H2

 

What is the difference in the above carburetors?

 

 

[Jim Yergin]

The carb on my 1941 P12 would not allow the installation of the kick-down switch when I installed an o/d transmission. I ended up using a carb from a P15 that I got from George Asche.

Jim Yergin

Edited December 14, 2014 by Jim Yergin

[Lloyd]

Hey Jim, thanks for the response.

But not good news. So the OD's came out with a different carb as well.

Do you have a number or any info on the carb that you got from George Ashe?

[Jim Yergin]

Lloyd,

Here are pictures of my carb and the kick-down switch. I actually don't use it. I use a switch on the end of my shift lever. If you wanted to keep your carb, I would think you could do the same.

You might want to call George Asche about the carb.

 

Jim Yergin

 

 

[plyroadking]

I ran into a similar issue when i put the '55 engine and od trans in my 1940. I ended up using a later carburetor bottom 2/3s and putting my top piece on it to keep the manual choke cable mount. I just took it off my car to try out a '55 dodge two barrel carb and intake manifold. I will look for a number on the old carb but im pretty sure the number was on the top horn i took off.

[garbagestate 44]

Here's a link to an old carb site that may or may not be useful but it has scans of many carter carbs. Good luck.

http://old-carburetors.com/Chrysler.htm

[1941Rick]

You do not need a special carb for over drive.....just put the kickdown switch in conjuntion with the carb linkage.....any where you can make it fit.

Like Jim I use a switch on the gear shift lever.....works much better.

[Lloyd]

You do not need a special carb for over drive.....just put the kickdown switch in conjuntion with the carb linkage.....any where you can make it fit.

Like Jim I use a switch on the gear shift lever.....works much better.

 

Does sound like a better idea.

I read to engage the kick down you had to mash the pedal to the floor, really don't like that idea. Even my own truck I don't smash the pedal down and make a habit of passing cars. I'm more into staying in the right lane at an easy pace and let everyone pass me up.

So are you putting a toggle switch, button or what to the gear lever? Guess it would have to be a spring loaded thingy that would hold the kick down till released? 

Ive got column shift on my P8.

[Lloyd]

Lloyd,

Here are pictures of my carb and the kick-down switch. I actually don't use it. I use a switch on the end of my shift lever. If you wanted to keep your carb, I would think you could do the same.

You might want to call George Asche about the carb.

 

Jim Yergin

Thanks for the pics Jim.

[1941Rick]

Keep an eye on ebay and every once in a while a gear shift knob will come up. It is a grounding switch. I hooked mine up to another relay so when I push the button the trans shifts out of od.

[timkingsbury]

Does sound like a better idea.

I read to engage the kick down you had to mash the pedal to the floor, really don't like that idea. Even my own truck I don't smash the pedal down and make a habit of passing cars. I'm more into staying in the right lane at an easy pace and let everyone pass me up.

So are you putting a toggle switch, button or what to the gear lever? Guess it would have to be a spring loaded thingy that would hold the kick down till released? 

Ive got column shift on my P8.

Hi Lloyd -

 

If you have some time give us a call and we can talk to you about overdrives and how they are engaged, and work. It would be the r10 that is electric and has a kick down switch on it.  If you were closer I would offer to take you for a spin and believe me you would see that they work well.  But give us a call and we can explain how they work.  I have attached the picture of the kickdown switch, on my 1949 plymouth and it has an r10 overdrive. 

 

In terms of carbs, there are different configurations as well as different cfms.  In terms of a cheat sheet for the plymouth and dodge trucks.. here are the main ones.

 

If its tomorrow George should be around most of the day  814-354-2621 and he is the expert of experts.  I should be around until about 10am eastern standard time at 519-766-5695  and after 10am I will be on the road, showing up at George's later on tomorrow afternoon. 

 

Tim  Kingsbury

CARBURETOR STUFF

 

Plymouth

 

1933 – 1938 – model 439s (1 7/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi)

 

1940 – 1942  -  “P9”  Carter Carb Ball and Ball  model # b6p1, b6r1 and b6s1 (2 hole base)

                          (1 5/32 throttle bore 1 3/32 venturi)

 

1942 (p14) and 1946-48 (p15)    Model d6g1 – (2 hole base)

                                                     (1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi)

 

* 1949 (p17 – p18) 1950 (p19-p20), 1951-52 (p22 – p23), 1952 (p24) and 1954 (P25) model d6h1, d6h2  

                                                                                ( 1 9/16 throttle bore 1 ¼ venturi)

 

 

• there was a d6n1, d6n2  and d6r1 which are the same as the 1949-1954 carbs but have throttle restrictors

 

* 1953 – 1954 – P24-p25 Plymouth with overdrives – D6U1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi)

 

 

Dodge

 

1937 – 1940 truck   - etr1r (2 hole base)

 

1940 – 1948 cabover is a 6c1, 6c2, 6d1, 6dir, 6e1, 6f1, 6g1, 6m1 (updraft carb)

 

1941, 42, 46, 47 truck  etr1r, b6s1, dta2, dtb1-dtb1r, dtb2-dtb2r, dtb3-dtb3r, etp2, etr1-etr1r

 

*1942 – 1949 trucks – model dtc1 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi) or

                             model ett1 (1 11/16 bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

 

* 1946-1947 carbs with velocity governors – eyb1, eyb4, eyc1, eyc3, et1, et2, et4, e7b1, e7c1, e7f1, e7s1

 

* 1950-1954 ½ and ¾ ton and 1952 1 ton – dte1 and dte2 (1 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi)

 

* 1950 – 1956 1 ½ - 3 ton – e7t1 and e7t2 (1 11/16 throttle bore 1 11/32 venturi)

 

1950-1954 cabover is 6n1 and 6n2 (updraft)

 

** 1952 2 ¾ - 4ton with dual carbureters – e7u1 and e7u2  1 11/16 throttle bore amd 1 11/32 venturi)

 

* Dodge d46 and d47 – 1953  - model d6h2 1 – 9/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi

                                                  * Same thing but with overdrive – model d6u1 (same bore and venturi)

 

 

** 1953-1956 2 ½ ton truck with 2 carbs – model e9k1 and 39y1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1/32 venturi)

    (this is the 265 ci motor carbs)

 

*1953-1955 2 ¾ ton – 3 ½ ton or 1953-56 4 ton – model e9g1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 ¼ venturi)

  (this was the 331-377-413 big block motor with dual carbs)

 

* 1953-1955 1 and 1 ½ ton truck (route van) e9h1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

   (this is the 331-377-413 big block – single carb)

 

* 1954 d51 and d52 – e9n1 or e9t1 (1 11/16 throttle bore and 1 11/32 venturi)

[Lloyd]

Thanks Tim. I was just looking at ebay for a switch that might work.

I have an R7B. It fits the bell housing and input shaft is same as original. But shift linkage will not fit. Understand an R6 will bolt right up to the original linkage so I have been keeping an eye open for one but no luck so far. If push comes to shove I will be installing the R7 and modify linkage but I really don't want to, kinda had some experience with that swapping an auto trans to a 4 speed on a 65 galaxie and it was a can of worms. It was a bear getting the linkage right. Clutch and shift linkage, clutch especially. But I still intend on putting an OD in my P8. One way or another.

 

Right now Im in California so calling before 10 Eastern would be about 6 in the morning here. That aint going to happen plus my wife and I are on our 10 year wedding anniversary vacation. Came back to the same place we had our honey moon and so I would have to call about my car without tipping that bucket over.

 

May be better to wait till we get back home. Would this next weekend be OK?

[MarkAubuchon]

I have dual carb set up on both cars with R10 OD,  I chose to use a manual knock down switch.  Driven both cars cross country.  No problems