door lock question

[DutchEdwin]

A few weeks ago when I tried to lock my left door, the key just wouldn't go into the lock.

Had it in just 2 minutes before to unlock that same door.

Doesn't matter what I do I cannot get the key in again. Tried WD40 a few times but no luck.

There seems to be a small metal piece that does not move up.

Does anyone know how to fix this? Without new locks if possible?

 

My car: 1955 plymouth plaza suburban.

The key now fits the ignition, left door, rear door.

The passenger side does not open with the key, although the key does go in the lock.

 

[_shel_ny]

Sounds like one of the pins is no longer staying up where it belongs. One solution is to pull the lock and remove the offending pin and spring.  The key works by pushing the pin and spring up out of the way so the key can turn. With no pin in that position the lock will work OK. The cut on the key at that spot will no longer be in play. Can do the same with the other lock that the key goes into but does not turn. Remove, or reposition pins until it works.

[Ulu]

If they're not too worn they can be re-keyed all the same & fix the bad pin at the same time. New keys & cylinders are available too.

[Plymouthy Adams]

often just removing the lock..carefully taking the etainer plate off you can remove the tumblers and springs..keep them in order...a thin flat piece of metal, wiper blade rubber retainer can be used, clean the key slot itself by running in and out to remove any chips or rounded metal matrial..then you carefully use a small drill by hand and pin vise to clean the edges of the pin bores..once the key moves in and out smoothly again..reassemble the lock..

[DutchEdwin]

Sounds like an easy job. Didn't know you can reconfiger the lock too. So if I have to order a new lock I can set it to my own key's?

By the way, to prevent wear to my key I had 3 copies made and the original in the vault.

 

One more question,

The service manual mentions to remove the lock I have to slide a latch plate aft (push way). For this I do not have to remove the door panel.

But to install they use a wire to gide the lock. For this you need to remove the panel. Can to install be done without removal of the panel?

 

Thanks to you all.

Edited November 4, 2014 by DutchEdwin

[Plymouthy Adams]

as the lock post is kinda wobbly attached..it can be such a pain to install the lock back into the door and latch back in place...you may be able to guide it though the window opening carefully using a wire hook to try and support the shaft...

[Ulu]

If you don't want to remove the interior panel, you need a long sharp needle to guide the post (tail) of the lock unto place. You just poke the needle through the panel and cloth as you insert the lock then pull the needle through. This is shown in the 1947 manual, which had cloth upholstery in that area.

 

This won't work if you have leather or vinyl, unless you like holes in the upholstery. They don't show with the cloth, IF (BIG IF) you keep the needle and lock clean. If there's grease on the needle there'll be a grease spot on the upholstery.

Edited November 4, 2014 by Ulu

[DutchEdwin]

Got my door lock out..

The door lock is working again after a little cleanup. But I think I'm missing some parts.

I've only 1 spring and I think I'm missing the cover.

Can anyone post a picture what the cover should look like?

Also I do not know what the pins in the lock should look like when theey are not worn. Does anyone have a picture of that too?

 

Thanks,

Edwin.

Edited November 8, 2014 by DutchEdwin

[Plymouthy Adams]

you seem to be the second half of the tumblers and 4 springs and the cover plate..

[_shel_ny]

Remove all the pins to lock and unlock the door with any key that fits in the slot.