Crankshaft end play.....what are the chances?

[Don Coatney]

One more thing. Remove the clutch cover and see if the flywheel moves when you depress the clutch. And or use a pry bar to see if the flywheel moves. Flywheel is bolted directly to the crankshaft.

[Jeff Balazs]

Are you sure the nut that secures the front hub to the crankshaft is tight? When you see the pulley move can you see deflection in the fan belt?

 

In another thread you mentioned that you had to remove the water distribution in chunks. You have also stated that the engine was somewhat fresh when you got it. Was the tube not replaced when the engine was freshened? Makes me wonder what else was not done when the engine was rebuilt.

 

Harbor Freight has a 12 dollar magnetic base for a dial indicator.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html

 

And a dial indicator for fifteen bucks

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html

 

I have one of the bases and it works well.

 

 

One more thing. Remove the clutch cover and see if the flywheel moves when you depress the clutch. And or use a pry bar to see if the flywheel moves. Flywheel is bolted directly to the crankshaft.

Don;

I don't know the actual history on the truck. The PO passed away and I bought from his daughter. They had at least 15 to 20 years and the daughter never heard it run. The PO never had it registered.

As near as I can figure out it got this 230 swapped in and perhaps a short time afterward was involved in a pretty substantial accident. I think the PO got it after the accident and started to make repairs. He replaced the drivers door....repaired the cab.....sanded and primed the body....and started trying to repair the bent frame. Then it sat for a long ...long time.

 

When I got it it was obvious that it had sat with straight water in it until the radiator core rotted out. The oil was clean though.

That is where I started. One of the first things I did was to pull the radiator and water pump. I could see that the WDT was a mess so I went after it. I couldn't say if it had ever been replaced? Maybe....maybe not. at that point I removed the head and had a buddy help me check the bores. They are at 40 over and that jive with the rebuild tag I found. They were all in really good shape with no ridge..no scoring...and gauged out as close to perfect for 40 over as you would ever expect. The tag also called out the rod bearings and main bearings at .010 under. I have no reason to think that they have been altered since this work was done. The one item I did find that was a bit suspicious was the old timing chain. It had some mileage on it so I replaced it. The numbers on the block would indicate it was originally in a 54 - 55 C series heavier truck. I can't say what other alterations exist with it but it is mated to my original fluid drive 4 speed.

 

I did have the inspection plate off last year and as I recollect the flywheel had about the same amount of movement that the engine pulley does when the clutch is depressed. Running or not. The noise I have described goes away entirely when the clutch is depressed. Even the slightest amount of foot on the pedal has the same effect. Clutch and TO bearing are new and fluid drive makes no noise nor does it leak.

The sound definitely comes from the engine pulley seal and sounds a bit like a dry fan belt. If I shoot a little bit of oil behind the engine pulley it goes right away.....for a while.

 

When I had the oil pan off there was some sludge deposits but no metal at all. I have changed to oil 3 or 4 times to get all the sludge and grime out. I have Castrol 20-50 and STP in it now and it is as clean as a whistle. I am a fan of magnetic drain plugs and added one right away.

 

Jeff

[HanksB3B]

 

I am a fan of magnetic drain plugs and added one right away.

 

Jeff

 

Jeff,

 

Sorry about your engine woes.  Hopefully you'll figure out the best and simpliest fix. 

 

VPW used to sell OEM magnetic drain plugs like $5 or $8. They told me they were out of them. Where did you purchase yours?

 

Thanks,

 

Hank    

Edited October 25, 2014 by HanksB3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank;

I got the magnetic drain plug from VPW. It would be easy enough to add a magnet to your existing plug though. Just get a good quality rare earth magnet and stick in place. I have made several this way for motorcycles. They work really well in places like a primary chain case. In the right spot they will keep quite a bit of metal from staying in suspension.

 

 

Jeff

[Jeff Balazs]

Does anyone have a clear picture of the special tool used to remove the upper main bearing shells ? I think I would like to have a try at replacing the rear main in place.

Thanks, Jeff

[Dave72dt]

I've done them a couple of different ways. Loosen the rest of the main caps a bit. That lets the crank drop a few thousnads and makes removal easier. Using a thin blade screwdriver push on the end of the brg that doesn't have the locating tang. That will bring the tang end out and using the corner of the screwdriver on the back of the exposed brg shell, walk it out OR I've cut the end off 1/2 of a HD cotter pin at an angle and slid it into the oil hole on the crank, leaving enough exposed to catch the edge of the brg shell and then rotated the crankshaft in the direction that the tang end comes out first. Once far enough around to remove the shell, the cotter pin is removed from the crankshaft.

After installation of the new shells, torque ALL the main caps to spec.

Edited October 28, 2014 by Dave72dt