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Posted

Nice work Bill, Too pretty to cover with paint.

Posted (edited)

Latest!  Only took 4 trips to the auto parts store to get a belt that would fit.  Seems their computer couldn't find a '56 Dodge with manual steering. no A/C, with a custom alt. mount.  Persistence did finally pay off.

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Edited by mrwrstory
Posted

I've finally begun a project I have been looking forward to for some time.  I plan to build a killer set of custom headers for this engine after it is installed in the car.  It's been a long time since gas welding anything but in the last millennium there was a time when I could lay down a pretty nice bead.  Nice Oxy/Acetylene welds and fitting pieces of mandrel bent tubing to yield graceful and complex curves is primary on the "to do list".

'Tho it's been many decades, my hands aren't as steady and I can't see "squat", I'm on a mission.  And, part of the mission is to get all the bad stuff outta my system before starting on the real thing.

   The following is a start, a trial and some experience before embarking on the real thing.

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  • Like 1
Posted

love the tiny  altenator,,,is it a one wire ?

It can be.  

Vendor showed me how to make that conversion (just a matter of "jumpers") so I have the option of a stock type connector or a "one wire".  Pretty simple and it apples universally I believe.  If you/anyone are interested, I'd draw and post a diagram.

Posted

It can be.  

Vendor showed me how to make that conversion (just a matter of "jumpers") so I have the option of a stock type connector or a "one wire".  Pretty simple and it apples universally I believe.  If you/anyone are interested, I'd draw and post a diagram.

so if it is not set up for a 1 wire,does it use an  external  voltage reg ??  your  bracketry looks great

Posted

​Did a very amateur video of the Red Ram Rhinoplasty but have been unsuccessful at getting it onto Photobucket.  (I've entered a query on the "Posting Photos" thread)

In the meantime, here's a few snaps of the Sawsall Surgery on a proboscis that was piquing irritation.

:angry: 

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  • Like 1
Posted

That Hammered effect is GREAT ! Looks better than factory.

Posted

​Did a very amateur video of the Red Ram Rhinoplasty but have been unsuccessful at getting it onto Photobucket.  (I've entered a query on the "Posting Photos" thread)

In the meantime, here's a few snaps of the Sawsall Surgery on a proboscis that was piquing irritation.

:angry: 

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ouch....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I had to modify the dip stick/tube assembly in order to get the correct reading for oil level.  Turns out the easiest fix was a new tube which of course I made into a big project.

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Also finally received the cheapo muffler to complete the passenger side temporary exhaust system.

Not remembering if I mentioned it before, I am practicing for the header design and fab later this Winter.  Got some new goggles with "cheater" lenses and that's making a big diff.  I've not got much left to blame crummy welds on.  :lol: 

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Posted

Don't need no dang mufflers on a test stand. :)

 

I set my stand up so I could slip the mufflers in place so as to not disrupt the neighborhood. Engine is running in both pictures.

 

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Posted (edited)

Very impressive on what you are doing. Rebuilt my own 259 poly. Kept it as a poly but with some adjustments I got from hotheads

oilpump for larger oil flow

swap to modern oil filter, got rid of the check valve.

added a balancer on the crankshaft. but the pulley that hotheads provided was a lot smaller in diameter. So the fan is running on lower speed. When driving in summer there is no problem but I avoid traffic jams to prevent overheating.

 

I saw the amount of timing marks on the balancer. Do you have any idea on how much advance the engine needs on modern fuel? I now have on 10 deg BTDC. But still not enough to get the max engine vacuum of 21 inch.

some more pictures of my project are on my photobucket page.

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Edited by DutchEdwin
Posted

I love the look of the Poly.  'Round here, no one knows what it is.  I have a faux Poly in my Roadster and it always has folks scratching their heads.

Great looking car you have there too.  I've had several wagons and that style is one of my favorites.

Re timing, mine is not running yet however, I'd be starting at about 6 degrees BTDC.  Do you have a vacuum advance distributor and are all vacuum lines hooked-up correctly?

Posted

More parts of the project I've been looking forward to.  If it can be inspiration to anyone,....this is the first time I have done most of this stuff.  

And 'tho not perfect, it is experience.

Took me three tries to find the breather I liked, but then had to modify to fit.  A plus is I had to buy another tool,....or two  :lol: 

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Patina will also be a feature of the new engine.  I'm coloring via the careful application of heat.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Had a hiccup!  After coloring with heat and baking on the clear coat, the result was terrible!

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So after removing the clear I did a reboot with a higher temp coating.

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 I am pleased with the second attempt.

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Posted

did the coloring come from the heat or the  heating of the clear coat ?  pretty  kool,,,lets see more on your dipstick,,,mine needs adjusting as well,,

  • Like 1
Posted

did the coloring come from the heat or the  heating of the clear coat ?  pretty  kool,,,lets see more on your dipstick,,,mine needs adjusting as well,,

The coloring was all done by heat with a rose bud torch tip on bare metal.  If you're interested in the technique, Google "coloring steel with heat" for more than you'd ever want to know.  I believe a propane Burnz-O-Matic would work just as well as the temp range for coloring is just 200-450 degrees.  The color darkens with the app of clear coat.  The first pic is before baking.  My first attempt was with the Engine Enamel baked at 200 degrees.  It was way too glossy but also took on a transparent moss green color,.....(seen in the video) which I hated.  The second attempt, after removing the "green glossy", was using the higher temperature  satin clear.  The diff. in color, before and after baking, is much more subtle as seen in the two pics.

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Re the dip stick, Bob Walker of Hot Hemi Heads provided the 8" dimension to the "full mark" (seen in a previous pic) for my engine.  It required that I either lengthen the tube or shorten the stick.  I decided to make a new tube as I had the material and wanted more time on the lathe.  I soldered on the ring that became the flange that seats against the block.

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Posted

I like the support to the block. Nice work Bill. Glad you got some extra time working with  your lathe.

Posted

nice job on the dip stik,,,mine  for some  reason  enters  in the side of the  oil pan,,,and  needs  adjusting,,,

I believe the dip stick on the side is characteristic of the 241/270.  If you haven't talked to Bob Walker, I encourage you to do so.  He is very gracious and could certainly tell you what you need to know.

On another note,......just last evening I finally copied/printed the HEI diagram and notes you generously provided.  The completion/assembly of the ignition system is in the near future.  I do also have help from a local guy who will mentor me through the ballast resistor and coil choices.

Posted

I like the video Bill..gave me a chuckle. I strictly follow that rule that if you don't like it at first change it or get rid of it. It doesn't matter how much time or money went into it, it won't be better later. I have the first version of my tail light instillation hanging on my shop wall to remind me of that. Your second attempt is much better.

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