bbbbbb99 Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 Has anyone done the tapered axle modification show on the hotrodsandhemis website to a 37-48 rear end? Perhaps it's against the rules to past a link to another website, I can't seem to add the link. Thank you Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 This may or may not help for adding a link to paste link: Right click , then click on the clip board to open a small window. Paste. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) http://hotrodsandhemis.com/PolaraRearBrakes/TaperedAxleBrakes.html Thank you Edited January 6, 2014 by bbbbbb99 Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Not sure what is hotrodsandhemis, but here is a conversion. I have not done it. Posted as info. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_Tapered_Axle_Rear_Brake_Conversion Edit: appears to be the same procedure Edited January 6, 2014 by shel_ny Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) while this is very informative for the later 8 3/4 from 57-64 I am not so sure how much of this is pertinent to the earlier Mopar rear drums. I do not have a Plymouth rear hub laying about loose here to look at as I donate these to my buddy who maintains his cars stock and I upgrade to modern, but looking at a set of 50 Dodge rear drums it is obvious at first glance that the drum is mounted to the backside (inboard) of the flange when assembled and bolts are swaged..would be nice if someone with access to a Plymouth drum do a look see...was thinking these are riveted using 5 separate rivets as the wheels are held on by bolts..not stud/nut Edited January 6, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 P-15 drum/hub assemblies are riveted together, drum on the outside of the hub. One rivet is extended to form a guide pin to hang the wheel on when you're changing tires. Its a simple operation to separate them, I used a tall deep well socket and a big hammer. Grind off the heads and drive them out, making sure you don't bend the hub. The 5/16 key stock is an off the shelf item at a good hardware storm. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Neil, so is there a newer drum that can then be used? Edited January 6, 2014 by bbbbbb99 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 Thanks Neil...I though the Plymouth rear were similar to the front in assembly...I found the article a bit shy of a picture or two, notice there are no shots of the swedge cutting..or the after shot of a removed drum... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) as the hubs are concentric, there should not be any subsequent damage to the drums and simply just install them as modern drums would be as the tire/wheel assembly will then be holding the drum against the hub and the hub is centric in design..HOWEVER..there is an odd chance of some misalignment I would think as the rear design of these brakes are not floating but fixed position...the very reason they are a huge PITA to begin with..drums are a bit less forgiving than discs where out of round is not a problem as the pads are running against the lateral surfaces..drum brakes bind with the radial surface and run out of more than .008 will probably be felt when the brakes are applied.. as a note..IF you wish, one could easily drill and tap the hub and drum in two place as an alignment...this is very common with British brake drums...do this procedure prior to separating the drum from the hub...drill and tap then counter sink it and use a flathead machine screw for this purpose..do use a high grade screw for future removal.. Else, one may be able to do this same procedure to each of the 5 rivets..do it as each stud is removed..this should go far in ensuring alignment..as there are symmetrical..punch mark one hole for orientation.. Edited January 6, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 I freed my drums about 1995. The lug bolts have always lined the drums up concentrically. Never a problem. AMC drums are screwed to the hubs exactly as you described; two countersunk holes with flathead screws used. I have not found a drum that will fit because the originals have about 1/2" deeper offset to reach the backing plate. Nothing I have seen is that deep. People seem to make this a much bigger and more complicated job than it really is. I guess its because they worry about doing something wrong that will be dangerous. If you wanted to go to the extra work, you could press in studs from the back of the hub. As long as the serrations on the stud aren't long enough to extend into the drum. Its such simple job that I don't see the need to make more work. Maybe that's why people don't trust it, it just isn't hard enough or complicated enough to work. Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Posted January 7, 2014 Axle is sitting in my yard and I'm not ready to start tearing into it for a while. Just doing some research so thanks to all for the help. It appears that the 37 axle I have uses 10 x 2 inch drums. Mopar used quite a few 10 x 2.5 drums. I wonder if this extra half an inch would make up the difference it looks like would be needed. I'll have to check on this. Thanks again Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2014 Report Posted January 7, 2014 as the backing plate in most rear application is cupped for the drum to extend into for water shield etc...I would say yes..the extra depth would hit the backing plate Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 7, 2014 Report Posted January 7, 2014 It's worth a look, let me know what happens. Thanks. I would tr it knowing that the original 2" shoe would be riding the outer edge of the wider drum. But I don't see where that would hurt anything.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 7, 2014 Report Posted January 7, 2014 (edited) Niel Hoback Posted Today, 02:05 PM It's worth a look, let me know what happens. Thanks. I would tr it knowing that the original 2" shoe would be riding the outer edge of the wider drum. But I don't see where that would hurt anything.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, brake drum backing to axle flange is the constant...the extra half inch of the wider drum will hit the backing plate before it will flush fit the axle flange..UNLESS you thinking of mounting a 1/2 spacer between the drum and the flange...SO THAT THE SHOES will ride on the outer edge of the 2.5 drum...and if that is your thoughts...the lug bolts will now have to be increased to the additional length to ensure adequate clamping force... Edited January 7, 2014 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 In other words; Fugiddaboudit ! Quote
nonstop Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 I did the conversion a few months ago. I swapped out backing plates for Bendix brakes and then Converted to slip off drums. It was a lot easier than expected and actually worked out great! The only difference was that mine has studs instead of bolts. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 Need details, what backing plates did you use ? What were the brakes from? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 replacing the backing plates and using the later self centering brakes are the way to do... Quote
nonstop Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 Backing plates were off of a 65 Coronet. I used the plates, drums, and shoes (along with the other small parts). I used them because they were free, but my guess is most anything with an 8 3/4 rear is probably similar. But I am probably wrong. Anyway, I stripped off the old brakes and backing plates. Holding up the new plates, the bottom 3 bolt holes lined up with the housing flange. I could have drilled the backing plates for the upper 2 holes, but drilled the housing flanges as they seemed to have more meat. I also drilled the shims to the backing plate pattern. Sounds like a pain, but was pretty easy actually. I then mounted it up as follows: Housing flange Then shims Then bearing retainers, Then backing plates. I used the axle seals for my year (1954), and pressed them into the bearing retainers. The reason for the bearing retainers before the backing plates was to keep the pre load on the bearings. The hole in the backing plate was wider the size of the bearing, which could potentially mess up the pre load. I separated the drums from the flanges. I mounted the flanges to the axles. The drums slid right over, and the rear brakes are working awesome! The mounting will be differen since you are using bolts, mine used studs. I used studs that were a different number than what was on the crankshaft coalition site. The studs had a long enough shoulder that they centered the drums. The biggest problem I found was finding the bearing retainers. I could not find places that sold them by themselves. Hopefully that was clear, please ask if you have any questions. It really IS easy! Quote
bbbbbb99 Posted January 8, 2014 Author Report Posted January 8, 2014 nonstop, it would be so cool if you had pics (hope/wish/pray/dream). This sounds like the way to go! Thank you sooooo much Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 Thanks for the info, it sounds like an easier way to get simpler brakes on the rear. Pictures would be neat, but I'm printing it anyway. Quote
nonstop Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 Thanks for the info, it sounds like an easier way to get simpler brakes on the rear. Pictures would be neat, but I'm printing it anyway. Let me try to grab some pics - it won't be until this weekend though if you can wait! Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 8, 2014 Report Posted January 8, 2014 It's been since 1994, I think I can wait a bit. Thanks. 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.