How-to for Griffin universal radiators (in trucks)

[41/53dodges]

For those of us that are having radiator issues, putting in a bigger engine, or just want a bigger radiator and you don't mind using an aftermarket part, here is a writeup for Griffin universal radiators. Now in my situation, I used a Griffin model 1-272DF-AXX. It is a universal aftermarket meant primarily for rat rods but it fits the bill.

http://www.griffinrad.com/load_details12.php?PartID=759&key_id=1-272DF-AXX&year=All&make=Universal%20Fit&model=Rat%20Rod%20Radiator

Now the problem with this particular model is it is WAY TOO TALL. THE COMPANY'S DIMENSIONS SHOW IT AS SMALLER THAN IT IS.

To use this one I had to make some modifications to pretty much everything, including modifying the bracket on the front for the fenders.

JUST GET A SHORTER MODEL, IT WILL SAVE YOU SO MANY HEADACHES!

Here is a nice page of options!

http://www.griffinrad.com/RatRods/index.php?tid=14

Now, The list of things to do:

• Originally this radiator comes with the filler in the center, it must be moved to one side or the other, or just deal with it. I had it moved.
• You need to fab up and weld some aluminum brackets. not the worst thing to do if you have the resources.
• The top hose is different size and different place, you need a new thermostat housing. It is a factory part from NAPA
• The lower radiator hose is a larger size. It can be adapted any way you like, I machined an aluminum adapter.

Now this is a lot of work, but when you are done that truck should never overheat again!

Edited December 21, 2013 by 41/53dodges

[Plymouthy Adams]

Griffin and Summit brand radiators can be had in a multitude of sizes, both in regard to hose inlet/outlet size and position on the radiator and most all models are available in the choice of automatic or manual (auto gets oil cooler) and yes for whatever reason their so called direct fit as advertised for Mopar...sucks the big one...not even close for the older cars...maybe an early B-body but not our babies....buy by physical size to opening, rows for cooling capacity, opening by size of hose and if of if not a cooler needed...they are very well made and economical.  HOWEVR...these cannot be pushed above 16 PSI..I talked to president of the company as his product/literature are not marked anywhere for this rating..he promised me new models would be..I have not checked to see ..just a word to the wise for modern engine install and pressure applications only.....

[41/53dodges]

1: First step is to fab up the brackets, we used some .080" aluminum flat stock and a sheet metal brake. The easiest route is to make the radiator completely vertical, which isn't the end of the world. If you want to get fancy you can attempt to angle it like the original. I recommend using old cereal boxes and such to make a pattern for the brackets.

2: Figure out what you want to do for the filler neck, I got the coworker that welded the brackets to do that. The easiest route is to use a hole saw to literally cut through the welds around the neck, it leaves a neat hole behind and you can easily transplant the neck elsewhere.

3: The thermostat housing is actually a factory part available from NAPA (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Outlet/_/R-BK_6051051_0403487849), Ebay, or any other place of your choosing, Most any Chrysler v8 before 1972 used the right mounting pattern (3.25" bolt-bolt) and will bolt straight on. don't forget a new thermostat! This will allow for your smaller (1.5"), flexible upper hose. Mine is a 21" length universal, but I recommend doing your own measurements to be sure.

4: Now the lower hose is the tricky one. Our factory one is 1.5" and the radiator is 1.75", one good route is to add a sleeve on to the water pump to make it bigger, another is to weld an adapter onto the radiator output. This is all preference, I have an adapter sleeve between two hoses. I don't recommend it, I did it because I had the parts around but it causes extra places to leak and such.

5: Drill holes for you new aluminum brackets, this doesn't seem hard but it's easy to mess up. Make sure you do something to hold the big U-bracket that holds the radiator together, otherwise it tends to spring open wider than it is on the truck. Then, clamp the brackets to U-bracket and mark by some method of your choice. TAKE NOTE OF WHERE THE LOWER HOSE COMES OUT, it may hit the crossmember where the engine mounts.

6: You have all your parts, now you get to assemble! This is pretty easy, just watch the radiator fan because it would be a shame to ding up that nice new radiator.

 

Now you have a nice shiny new aluminum radiator for your truck, it should never let that little flathead overheat, or anything else you feel like wedging in there!

[41/53dodges]

a few more photos

[41/53dodges]

THE CONSEQUENCES OF A TALL RADIATOR

Just for those of you that want to know, I may as well share by adventure with a radiator that is too tall.

• You have to cut off the bracket that holds up the whole front end, then move it down 1" and weld it.
• You have to modify everything that attaches to the U-bracket by moving the holes down 1" to match the whole bracket that moved down.
• and to top it off, you have to remove a bracket in the hood to fit the filler neck.

DON'T BE A JOSH. GET A SMALLER RADIATOR! YOU WILL LIVE LONGER!

[1952B3b23]

Very cool, thanks for taking the time to do that.

-Chris

[chopt50wgn]

I don't want to be a fly in the ointment but you should never weld on a Griffin radiator. They are very good radiators but they are epoxied tanks, not welded. Once you weld, the chance of excess heat may jeopardize the seal.

[41/53dodges]

Not to pick the fly out of the ointment but griffin radiators are usually vacuum-brazed. To top it off the company specifically said to weld on brackets and such.

[chopt50wgn]

then they changed their manufacturing process.....my bad

[41/53dodges]

No problem! I have seen the epoxy jobs around, its good to take note of them so thanks for adding!