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Posted

Hey everyone, I bought a 1950 dodge coronet about two weeks ago, just trying to get it in good reliable running order. The engine runs good but going to replace all the gaskets just stop a little side leaking, transmission works great, but my main issue is the torque converter leaks real bad. Is there a rebuild kit for it or an easy fix or where I could  even get one? Also the exhaust and intake manifolds or a little cracky looking not sure if I should if theres a way I can find a new one or if its really not that bad I should try and just clean it up. Need some help because im not a mechanic by I do catch on quickly. Thanks

 

Jake

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Posted

Hey everyone, I bought a 1950 dodge coronet about two weeks ago, just trying to get it in good reliable running order. The engine runs good but going to replace all the gaskets just stop a little side leaking, transmission works great, but my main issue is the torque converter leaks real bad. Is there a rebuild kit for it or an easy fix or where I could  even get one? Also the exhaust and intake manifolds or a little cracky looking not sure if I should if theres a way I can find a new one or if its really not that bad I should try and just clean it up. Need some help because im not a mechanic by I do catch on quickly. Thanks

 

Jake

Posted

1950 Dodge does not have a torque converter. There is a fluid coupling but it is rare for it to leak a lot because it does not have a lot of fluid.. I suspect your engine rear main seal is what is leaking. If you do not have some kind of service manual (be it factory. Motors, Chilton etc) I do suggest you buy one or go to a library and scan the pages you need. Also read the maintenance and technical tips found on the brown tool bar at the top of this page. If your intake manifold is cracked your engine would not run well. If your exhust manifold is cracked you would hear it and feel the hot exhaust gasses escaping..

Posted

Let's start with some Dodge Stuff.  Your car has fluid drive, the unit is not a torque converter, it is a fluid transfer unit.  Basically two fans in hydraulic fluid. Your leak could be as simple as a loose filler plug, or it could need seals.  You can get the seals from Roberts motor pars, or Andy  Burnbaum, or maybe even Kanter. Your care has a removable center floor section witch will give you access to the top of the bell housing transmission.  There is also a removable plate in the top of the bell that will give you access to the filler. Do you know what transmission your car has?  three speed or gyromatic? Usually the Gyromatic cars will have labeling on the fenders trunk and or dashboard.  The standard fluid for the unit is no longer available but most have found that universal tractor hydraulic fluid, the stuff that operated loaders, excavators etc works well.  It is available at places like tractor supply, farm and fleet type stores.  You should invest in a service manual repops are available and or take a trip to you local library and check the reference section for old Motors Manuals or Chilton books.  There is also a very good section on the drive line and semi auto trans on the Imperial club website in their repair section.

Posted

Faxon Auto Literature also has a huge selection of original and repro manuals. I bought a reprint of the original owners manual for my Plymouth from them - it was actually very informative. I bought the shop manual from Bernbaum's, and it has also proved invaluable. Here's a link to the Faxon stuff for your car: http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/Search.aspx?c=6030

Posted

Good luck, Jake. I await the experts' responses, too.

 

Clean-looking old car, though.

 

What part of North Carolina? I spent almost 15 years in Henderson, north of Raleigh and Durham on U.S. 1/I-35.

Posted

Depending on what your intentions with this particular vehicle are, and depending on the service history of the vehicle...first and foremost you gotta fix the trans fluid leak, or rear main seal leak as mentioned above. Reliable running means you need to have a firsthand knowledge of the components needed for the engine to run. Are the spark plugs good? Wires? Distributor cap? Rotor? Condensor? Points? These are simple things to inspect and change out, or you could end up on the side of the road because you trusted the previous owner. I would carefully check all of these things and if they look old, worn, or suspect I would replace them. What about fluids? Is the radiator full of rusty crappy water or does it have actual coolant in it? Might as well swap out the thermostat just for insurance against overheating. How is the brake fluid? Most likely it has been in there for a long time and has absorbed tons of water which has played hell with the internals of your braking components. Speaking of brakes, might as well yank the wheels and inspect the brake linings, wheel cylinders, hardware, and also give the front steering and suspension a good shakedown. How are the tires? Radial? Bias Ply? How old are they? Lots of dry rot in the sidewalls? Nothing worse than ending up in a ditch (or worse) because of a blowout. Do all of the lights work? Better to spend a few bucks on replacement light bulbs than a hundred or so bucks on a ticket from Johnny Law. How is the exhaust system? Is it intact or does the pipe look like rusty lace? Carbon Monoxide is a colorless odorless gas and will make its way into the cabin of your vehicle...then you start getting sleepy but in reality you are getting dead. 

 

If it were my car I would put my hands and eyeballs on all of these systems/components and make sure they are in tip-top shape before I deemed it "reliable." Just my .02

 

By the way, WELCOME!!!!!

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