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Posted

If there is anyone who might be concerned about the clearance of the caliper with the stock 16" wheels, these pics should clear it up. There is about a 1/2 inch clearance which is plenty.

000_0743.jpg

000_0746.jpg

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Hey Reg, I think I have this down pretty good now. Thanks again.

Also the wheel on this came from Grey Beard, Thanks!

Posted

Hi Jim,

Please tell us what your disc recipe is - sure looks nice. Will you use a different master cylinder? Glad to know the stock wheels will work. That was the reason I stayed stock with my own front brakes.:)

Good Luck

Posted

Hi Dave, To answer your question about the master cylinder, well, I haven't quite figured that out yet. I know Charlie Achers suggests moving the steering box forward. I'm not sold on that option yet. I wish someone would come up with a kit that we have all seen on these truck before. Using a brake pedal that is hinged up under the dash and the new master cylinder is attached up high on the fire wall. I might work on that in my spare time. Thanks again for the wheel, it turned out great! Jim Roach

Guest jtw3749c
Posted

When I have dismantled a car, I have always pulled the brake pedal and the mount for the brake pedal that swings from up under the dash, in anticipation of changing some of the floor pedals. I have some from Fords and Chevy's. Basically all you have to do if figure out where you want it to hang the pedal and drill the holes through the firewall and mount it to the dash. And don't for get the hole for the master cylinder.

Personally I don't care for the bulk hanging on the firewall, but they do have a master cylinder mount kit that puts it under your dash, inside. Plenty of options, just got to know where you want to go with it.

Just ordered my Disc Brake Kit from Charlie for my 49 DeSoto. Will be looking at the Truck next.

Posted

Thanks for the info. I have never really looked at what's involved but it doesn't sound too difficult. It looks like I'll be taking a trip to the bone yard. Thanks again, Jim Roach

Posted

I don't know how the MC is set up on the trucks. However, a lot of us on the car side of the forum have converted to disc brakes and still use the old original MC with them. We do that by using a 2 lb. and 10 lb. residual valve in the brake lines. Seems like people have done this with various kits without a problem. I used ECI's system, some used Charlies Ackers system, some have used Ply Do's system and AAJ's. Everybody seems to be happy with whatever system the used that way too. I would think the same thing would work on the pickups too. The residual valves should be installed as close to the MC as possible.

Posted

Which brake gets the 2 lb pressure.......Front or rear?

On my 1/2 ton I have shoes all the way around but I installed a 1966 T-Bird rear end for better hwy speeds. The other day I had to come to a screaching stop to avoid hitting a car that was stopped in the middle of the road around a blind curve. Only the front wheels locked up. I have tried backing off the front brake adjustment a little and this did not help. If I remember correctly the T-Bird shoes are larger and the brake lines are smaller diameter than the original front brakes. I'm wondering if a proportioning valve would even out the pressure.

Posted
  Reg Evans said:
Which brake gets the 2 lb pressure.......Front or rear?

On my 1/2 ton I have shoes all the way around but I installed a 1966 T-Bird rear end for better hwy speeds. The other day I had to come to a screaching stop to avoid hitting a car that was stopped in the middle of the road around a blind curve. Only the front wheels locked up. I have tried backing off the front brake adjustment a little and this did not help. If I remember correctly the T-Bird shoes are larger and the brake lines are smaller diameter than the original front brakes. I'm wondering if a proportioning valve would even out the pressure.

Reg,

I didn't specify which residual valve goes where because I forgot (senior moment here:) ) without checking the instructions again. I'll look it up for you later unless one of the others beats me to it. Also, I don't think anyone of us that only use the residual valves have power disc, just standard disc brakes. If your 66 T-Bird has power brakes, you may want to check to see what you need there. You would probably need the proportioning valve for power brakes.

Also if you are locking the fronts before the rears on drum brakes it may not be an adjusting problem with the front brakes. Maybe the rears are not activating soon enough to keep up with the fronts. It's possible the adjusters are out of whack or you could have a bad hose, etc. in the rear.

Posted

Norm & Pat, Thanks for the information. The only question I have is, most of us "truck guys" are still using the single MC's. The Illustrations Pat sent is showing dual MC's. Will the residual valve work with the single MC?

Thanks Jim Roach

Posted
  Jim Roach said:
Norm & Pat, Thanks for the information. The only question I have is, most of us "truck guys" are still using the single MC's. The Illustrations Pat sent is showing dual MC's. Will the residual valve work with the single MC?

Thanks Jim Roach

Yes, they will.

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