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Posted

Well nothing seems to be easy about this car lol,i bought a new throwout bearing assembly and it looks just like the old one except its half the size overall! Almost like a miniature version of what i need,whats going on??

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Posted

the bearing i got from the parts store is a National /MOOG brand part #614036

Posted (edited)

Sounds like there is some cross reference errors in the parts stores (more than one store) databases. Odd that a 49-52 Dodge part such as that would be compatible with vehicles up though 1987.  Bearing itself, maybe, but the whole release bearing assembly is unlikely.

 

Fluid drive is generally listed as a different #, and therein may lie the problem.

 

 

EDIT: robertsmotorparts, or Chris at oldmoparts.com would likely get you the correct one.

Edited by shel_bizzy_48
Posted

i ordered the complete assembly and not just the bearing.Ill try the guys you guys listed

Posted

ok so i tried both robertsmotorsports and oldmoparts and they only offer the bearing without the housing.Im looking for a assembled throwout bearing assembly,any other ideas?Trying to avoid having to press the old bearing off and the new one on.

Posted

ok so i tried both robertsmotorsports and oldmoparts and they only offer the bearing without the housing.Im looking for a assembled throwout bearing assembly,any other ideas?Trying to avoid having to press the old bearing off and the new one on.

 collectorsautosupply  or mitchell motor parts

 

part # 867734   dig deep collectorsauto lists at $200

 

 

or  http://www.oldparts.com/Mopar/Mopar_Numerical/mopar_numerical.html

 

says $28   list may not be up to date

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

yes i looked in my manual,its not listed,anybody know what the torque spec is for the pressure plate bolts?

Posted

ok guys i finished up my clutch /rear main seal job today.Good news is the rear main is not leaking and the clutch is not slipping anymore,but there is still an issue.I had the tranny redone with new syncros because it had a slight gring going into second gear.The tranny works great now going through the gears with no grinding going into second anymore.But....it now grindes going into first and reverse unless i put it into second then quickly back into first or reverse.If i put it into second then quickly put it into first or reverse it doesent grind??

Posted

Your pilot bearing might have enough drag to keep the input shaft spinning with the clutch disengaged.  If that is the case it should wear in after a while, or the clutch disc still has enough drag between the flywheel and the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is in to the floor.  You might need to readjust the clutch linkage to disengage sooner.

Posted

After reading my post it sounds confusing.....let me try explaining this way...I start the car up,go to put it in first to take off..it grinds...i try second and it goes right in with no grinding....i go directly back to first and it goes right in with no grinding?This process is the same for reverse.Once im in first it shifts through all the gears no problem with no grinding.Im thinking about draining the 10w motor oil out and refilling it with 80-90 gear oil to slow the gears down when i push the clutch in ??I checked the freeplay on the clutch and its not dragging at all and i have about a inch of freeplay in the pedal.

Posted

 i didnt change the pilot bearing,it looked to be in good shape so i left it alone

Posted

Since first and reverse both are non synchronized gears the input shaft must not turn the cluster gear when the car is stationary and the clutch is disengaged to prevent the non synchronized gears from grinding.  So something is still spinning the input shaft and cluster gear.  By putting the transmission in the synchronized second gear it stops the input shaft from turning until the clutch is engaged thus you can quickly shift into reverse or low from second before the input shaft starts turning again.  You still have a problem, changing the oil will help until the transmission heats the heaver oil then the problem might still be there.

Posted

There are two pilot bushings. An inner and a outer. You need 1" of clutch pedal free play.

 i didnt change the pilot bearing,it looked to be in good shape so i left it alone

Posted

what should i adjust at this point? should i thread the adjustment rod that pushes the clutch fork out more ? im thinking im gonna lose my inch of freeplay if i do this

Posted

I would suggest you adjust (increase) the time you have the clutch pedal depressed when first starting. This will allow the input shaft to stop spinning hence it should not grind. My transmission (T-5 with no reverse syncros) does the same (grinding) thing if I push in the clutch and quickly shift into reverse from a dead stop. If I do the same quick thing shifting to first I can feel the syncros working in the shift lever before it slides into gear. I dont think you have a problem.

Posted

i just started the car pushed the clutch in and held it in for a full minute then tried going into first and it still ground some but not as bad, this really pisses me off cause i spent alot of money getting replacing everything

Posted

im wondering if the 10w oil is too thin and not enough resistance to stop the gears from spinning?

Posted

Do it this way for a month or so. When you first start up depress the clutch and move the shift lever to second gear then into reverse or first. After a month see if the problem disappears. I still do not think you have a problem.

Posted

i also noticed if i start it up push the clutch in put it in second then take it out of second delay a second or two without going directly to first or say reverse the gears start spinning again and it will grind

Posted

thanks don ill try living with it and see if it gets better

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