Dynamat Instal Question

[sam knopik]

How prepped does the sheet metal need to be? Can it have any surface rust or does it need to be 100% clean? What about on top of the rust encapsulator paint, will it adhear to that?

Thanks,

Sam

[Young Ed]

I would say it needs to be 100% clean of anything that could come loose. I put all mine over a por-15 surface and its been fine for a couple years now.

[TheMoose]

Mine was over new clean paint & that's what I'd suggest you do also!

Inside doors & such don't need nice paint but a clean painted surface is your best bet.

Don't forget the sheet metal & Dynamat need to be warm, don't apply it in cold temps.

[Dan Babb]

I took off the loose stuff and use a rust converter spray on the metal.

Then put the material I used (Peel & Seal) over that. No problems with it coming up, but it probably hasn't been a year yet.

[MBF]

When I did mine, I used the Eastwood version because it was cheaper. I cleaned everything up real good with a preps all solvent. I only used the Eastwood product on the roof and firewall. The inside of the doors were clean so I just used a good aerosol undercoating (also from Eastwood). For the rear of the cab I purchase a roll of double foil backed plastic rolled insulation from Lowes and used an industrial adhesive to attach it. I used a rubber matting on the floor because I didn't want the jute backed material that would hold moisture under the carpet and wanted something that was removable. I'm pleased the way it came out. What really dampened the sound in the cab was the headliner and rear panel. I'm going to do the same with the 2.5 ton that bought late this summer. Mike

[Scruffy49]

Rust converter, Rustoleum auto primer, Rustoleum bed liner spray, then the mat of choice. Cheapskate method that seals the top of the floorpans.