Fluid Drive mix-n-match question

[crosleykook]

I have a '52 Dodge Coronet wagon with Fluid Drive that's been sitting a long time. Been trying to get it fired up but I think the motor may be toast.

I bought a running motor/fluid coupling/tranny assembly out of a car that is being hot rodded (either '51 or '52 Dodge sedan- can't remember which) and was thinking of doing a straight swap into my '52. Once I compared the two drivelines I noticed some major differences, not the least of which is that the trans in the wagon has some protruding sections on the passenger side with wiring (or maybe small hoses- still in the car so hard to tell) coming off the top, and the linkage on the driver's side connects to a big round aluminum or stainless bracket that covers half that side of the trans. the trans on the assembly I bought is a plain-jane tranny that looks like the others I've seen - no bumps, no bracket.

Is there a reason I shouldn't separate the motor and fluid coupling and just install the 'new' motor, using the fluid drive and trans currently in the wagon? I know I've got to watch out for spline changes on the transmission shaft- anything else I should worry about?

Thanks!

[48mirage]

The transmissiopn you are describing in your wagon is the gyromatic. A fluid drive is just the coupling between the engine and the clutch. It sounds like the "new" transmission may be just a simple 3 speed with fluid drive. The gyromatic transmission requires the wiring for the solenoid's and also interrupt fuel flow during the shifting. Do a search for gyromatic and you will learn quite a bit. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/m6.html

[crosleykook]

Aha! That explains a lot- I'll definitely need to do some more research! Do the Gyro Matics go bad from sitting like a regular automatic trans? This hasn't been run since about 1986.

[greg g]

also take a look at the imperial club website repair section lots of stuff regarding the semi auto trans. All m-6's were the same but differed in name between the mopar brands, Gyromatic, tip toe, simplematic .

[Dodgeb4ya]

Install the 8 hole Dodge crankshaft good engine. The Fluid Drive coupling requires a 8 hole crankshaft. Use your existing M-6 Gyro trans /bell housing and Fluid Coupling.The M-6 trans uses it's own bell housing.

Bob

[48mirage]

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm

[crosleykook]

Thanks for all the info! Went thru the shop manual and i didn't see any info about pulling the engine that was unique to the Fluid Drive- if I want to swap out the engine and leave the fluid drivbe and M6 in place, can I just separate the engine from the Fluid Drive and switch motors with the Fluid drive/trans still in place?

[48mirage]

I'm pretty sure it can be done but not comfortable. You will need some long wrenches to remove the bolts holding the crank to the fluid drive unit and a way to block and turn the flywheel while doing it. Also reaching the bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine block might be tight quarters. I haven't done it but it might be easier to unbolt the tranny from the bell housing and pull the engine, and bell housing with the fluid drive and clutch still in place. Transfer the bell housing clutch and fluid drive to the new motor and re install. You will need to do a clutch alignment and a new gasket to go between the transmission and the bell housing but it might mean less time underneath the car.

[crosleykook]

That's just what I needed- thanks!

Also- since i've never driven this car- is there an obvious way to tell if it's in Neutral? the wheels don't roll well- i'd assumed the brakes were dragging but now i'm wondering if it's actually in gear.... i hope not since i've been moving it all over..

[Dodgeb4ya]

Thanks for all the info! Went thru the shop manual and i didn't see any info about pulling the engine that was unique to the Fluid Drive- if I want to swap out the engine and leave the fluid drivbe and M6 in place, can I just separate the engine from the Fluid Drive and switch motors with the Fluid drive/trans still in place?

You can just pull the engine off the bell housing and leave the FD coupling in place- still on the M-6 input shaft. A regular 5/8" open end wrench of decent quality will remove the eight FD nuts. Long wrenches make it a lot easier. You need long extensions/ wobblies and 9/16" swivel sockets to make the bell housing removal happen-it will be tight. Be gentle when pulling the engine away from the eight FD studs! You don't want a leaking FD coupling.

Bob

[greg g]

fluid drive will allow the car to roll whether it is or is not in gear with either transmission. The parking brake on FD cars is an important component to have in proper working order. If the car is resisting rolling its probably related to the brakes. FD cars will provide compression braking while running but with engine off there is no connection between the engine and transmission.

[crosleykook]

Interesting. So how do I know if I have it in gear or not?

Also- the car was towed about 5 miles a few years ago- if it was in gear, would that have cooked the transmission or Fluid Drive?

[48mirage]

If the car was towed while in gear then the power would have been transferred through the fluid drive to the engine. If this had been done in a low gear and a high speed that could have been a problem. As far as whether or not the car is in gear if the shifter is still in working condition you would place it in the normal position for neutral as any other manual column shift. For the M6, reverse is when you pull on the shifter and move it up. There is no "first" gear position. The low and high positions are all the way up and all the way down without pulling on the shifter. Neutral would be in the middle.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presto-Matic