JR-39D11 Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 I'm in the process of removing the engine out of my 1939 D11 and when it's out I want to tackle the original wiring. My questions: I've read a few threads on wires which gave me a list of suppliers for cloth wrapped wires but I'm not sure what colors to order. I don't plan on making this a show car where I need points or any of that but I figure as long as I'm going to do it I might as well make it correct. I also don't know what color of sparkplug wire and type of connectors to use. I could also use advice for wiring the Dash. Is removing the dash the best way any tips? Quote
P15Mike Posted November 3, 2012 Report Posted November 3, 2012 I havent had to install a harness so i cant help you much with that end of it . I know a few who have used Rhode Island Wiring for their source of wiring . I believe you can purchase a whole dash/engine harness already "pre-made" in factory colors/design . Hope this helps .. good luck ! Quote
james curl Posted November 4, 2012 Report Posted November 4, 2012 I installed a Rhode Island wiring harness in a 48 Ford coupe and did the dash from under it and it was a simple job, every wire was pre-formed and the terminals fell on the bolts on the instruments. Quote
bob westphal Posted November 4, 2012 Report Posted November 4, 2012 Rhode Island sells the complete harness to wire your car. It comes as one unit if I remember correctly. It will be a little tight under the dash but it can be done without removing the dash. Quote
Big_John Posted November 4, 2012 Report Posted November 4, 2012 I removed my dash to rewire and repaint it. I made a couple of stands from old bed frame. The harness is easy if you take your time and use a little common sense. I used the same method that I've seen used in factories to make harnesses for machines. Lay the old harness out on a piece of plywood and use some finishing nails to make the "pattern". Remove one wire at a time, replacing it with new wire. Solder or crimp the ends on (I won't start the crimp/solder discussion) and use heat shrink tubing to insulate as needed. Wrap the completed harness with vinyl wrap (no adhesive). Rhode Island wiring harnesses are great from every report but they are also kinda "pricey". I used the wiring diagram from my manual to figure out sizes and colors. Length takes some estimating though. Here's a hint though... figure out what you need and buy another 10 feet of each color. Quote
JR-39D11 Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Posted November 5, 2012 Thanks Big John, I want to make my own harness like you did, it appears you can save big on the total cost just taking the bit of extra time to build your own connectors. How about the spark plug wires for a 39, anybody know what color and connectors I should use. Quote
desoto1939 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Posted November 5, 2012 Since you are going to build your own harness then I would recommend using the cloth tape to hold the wires in the loom. The original wire harness was in a loom that had blue tracers. The use of plastic tape was used in the 50s. The cloth was more period correct. I would also suggest that you solder the connectors and then use shrick tape to cover the ends where the wire attaches. If you are good at soldering then this will go smoothly. I have used Rhode Island wiring and they have an excellet product and then you just plaug the wires into their correct locations as per their instructions. Just my two cents. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
martybose Posted November 6, 2012 Report Posted November 6, 2012 The other advantage with a Rhode Island harness is that they will work with you on modifications. The one they did for my 47 was modified for a one-wire alternator, heavier gauge wire for halogen headlights, provisions for a dual headlight relay, added turn signal wiring, and probably half a dozen more things that I don't remember any more. A very satisfying experience! marty Quote
K_Jordan Posted November 6, 2012 Report Posted November 6, 2012 http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ Quote
JR-39D11 Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) I had to take a bit of a break on the Dodge, getting cold in the shop. I'm torn down and cleaned up. I have my wiring kit from Road Iland and before I pull the dash I was wondering if there where any tips from folks who have done this. My goal is got get back up and running before April. Edited January 21, 2013 by JR-39D11 Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 I found it helpful to study the wiring diagram in the back of the manual. I blew it up on a photocopy machine and then traced out all the dash wiring with colored highliters. Some advice I got was to use the gauge wire specified in the manual or go one higher. Also, I did mine with the dash in the car. Just seemed a lot easier to me. If you don't count lying on your back and working upside down, of course. Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 22, 2013 Report Posted January 22, 2013 recomend that you use a 10-12 gage wire off the satarter switch to carry extra juice. Then at least 14 guage wire for the rest of the car do not use 16 gage keep the bigger wire to get more volts down the line. ALso put in a headlight relay to also get more juice to the light instead of all the juice going thru the headlight switch. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com Quote
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