BXVES-3 carburetor substitution (Gyromatic)

[Dustin50]

Hello all,

I have a 1950 Dodge Coronet D34 with the Gyromatic M6 and a BXVES-3 Stromberg that has a broken throttle shaft. It is with a mechanic who found a substitute carburetor and has rebuilt it but it will not idle correctly and he has went back through it 5 or so times. I am wondering what the implications would be of using a carburetor without the electrical connections for the kick down and anti stall would be while I search out a replacement for the stock setup which I cannot seem to find at the moment. Other than the kick down obviously not working without a WOT switch what else would be impacted?

[Rusty O'Toole]

Trans will not shift right without the electrical switches. The idle thing is not connected to the switches but may be connected to having the wrong carburetor.

You can have the old carb rebuilt for under $200.

[Dustin50]

so update in that I got my car back from the mechanic this weekend and he replaced it with a D6M1 Carter BB from a Desoto. That carb does show as compatible with the M6 gyromatic but I am having trouble with it sputtering and also not going over 35-40 mph without cutting out.

Should this carb work on my car?

additional info it looks like there is only two wires going to the carb and the other is not hooked up (I don't see anywhere to hook up to on that carb).. the wiring is crusty and needs replaced so I could know for sure which is which. I attached some pictures of what I have currently.

Also the mechanic gave my old carb away so I am kind of screwed.. I did not find that out till this weekend so I am going to hope the guy still has it and will sell it to me

Edited September 24, 2012 by Dustin50
additional information

[50 Dodge Lug Nut]

If you recover your original carb from the "mechanic" who kindly disposed of it for you, this wiring diagram might be of help to you.

Frank

[Dustin50]

Thanks, I am hoping I can get it back and repaired but still curious if that carter should work since it is supposed to support the M6 as well in the Desoto and if so where the extra wire physically goes on the carb since I cannot see anywhere.

[Big_John]

Just a wild guess here, but is that the wire that goes to the choke thermostat?

[Young Ed]

No offense but that is some horrible looking wiring. I'm rather shocked your mechanic thought that would be good enough. Some new wiring might help.

[moose]

The third wire goes to a kick-down switch. It tells the transmission when the throttle is moved to full, then it can shift to the lower range.

BTW those wires need to go.

[Dustin50]

I get that the wires need replaced. The car has been in the shop for literally a year and I habe had it back home just a few hours before I left town this week.

The carter though should have the kickdown connection and run the M6 is I guess what I am looking for.

[55 Fargo]

I get that the wires need replaced. The car has been in the shop for literally a year and I habe had it back home just a few hours before I left town this week.

The carter though should have the kickdown connection and run the M6 is I guess what I am looking for.

Hi and hope you get this sorted out. The M6 trans can be finicky, and requires the anti-stall, governor, and kick down circuits to function correctly.

I saw the pics, and no fault to you, everything takes time, but if your Mechanic left wires like that, I would find another, just my thoughts.

Take your time, 1 step at a time, you will get it working well.....

[Rusty O'Toole]

My Motor Repair Manual lists the D6M1 model Carter B&B carburetor for the 1949 - 1950 Dodge. As you have a 1950 Dodge this should be the exact right carburetor.

I don't know why your car does not run right. It sounds like your so called mechanic doesn't either. Don't go back to him (except to get your old carb back).

If there is an antique car club in your area you could ask around for someone who knows how to work on the old cars.

If you brought the car to me I would start from scratch. First do a compression test. If it has bad compression don't waste your time trying to make it run right until this is corrected.

If compression was good or at least halfway decent I would do a complete tuneup. Adjust valves, clean or replace plugs, points, rotor, cap, check plug wires. Inspect and clean the air cleaner and refill with 50 oil. And finally clean and adjust the carburetor.

If the wiring is bollixed up of course that would have to be seen to as well.

I know it seems like a lot of work. Unless you are remarkably lucky there is no getting around it. In most cases it is actually quicker and cheaper to check everything and know it is right, than to flail around at random hoping to hit on the magic solution.

Incidentally keeping the car for a year and not fixing it is ridiculous. If I had it in my shop it would be eating out of my hand by the end of the day or I would know the reason why.

.............Later....................

I'm wondering if your so called mechanic has bollixed up the carb so bad you might as well send it away for a rebuild. That would be the one way to know for sure it was right.

Edited September 27, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole

[Rusty O'Toole]

That wiring is a disgrace. If I seem testy it makes my blood boil to see someone imposed on the way you have been when fixing the car properly is so easy.

The wiring should be as shown in the diagram Lug Nut posted. There is 1 more wire, it goes to the Sisson choke. The choke is on the exhaust manifold. There is a screw on top, a wire goes from the screw to a terminal on the starter. There should be a square box on the starter with 4 terminals, one is for the choke.

It may not be as bad as it looks. The under hood wiring wears out fastest due to the heat, and gas and oil fumes. If you replace the wires one at a time according to the diagram you should be in business. But check the wires on the transmission just in case.

[Dustin50]

My Motor Repair Manual lists the D6M1 model Carter B&B carburetor for the 1949 - 1950 Dodge. As you have a 1950 Dodge this should be the exact right carburetor.

I don't know why your car does not run right. It sounds like your so called mechanic doesn't either. Don't go back to him (except to get your old carb back).

If there is an antique car club in your area you could ask around for someone who knows how to work on the old cars.

If you brought the car to me I would start from scratch. First do a compression test. If it has bad compression don't waste your time trying to make it run right until this is corrected.

If compression was good or at least halfway decent I would do a complete tuneup. Adjust valves' date=' clean or replace plugs, points, rotor, cap, check plug wires. Inspect and clean the air cleaner and refill with 50 oil. And finally clean and adjust the carburetor.

If the wiring is bollixed up of course that would have to be seen to as well.

I know it seems like a lot of work. Unless you are remarkably lucky there is no getting around it. In most cases it is actually quicker and cheaper to check everything and know it is right, than to flail around at random hoping to hit on the magic solution.

Incidentally keeping the car for a year and not fixing it is ridiculous. If I had it in my shop it would be eating out of my hand by the end of the day or I would know the reason why.

.............Later....................

I'm wondering if your so called mechanic has bollixed up the carb so bad you might as well send it away for a rebuild. That would be the one way to know for sure it was right.[/quote']

thanks for the confirmation on the carb... the car DID run fine before the shaft on the carb broke and he did the swap so I think my priority is going to be trying to buy the original carb from the guy who has it now (they traded my broken stromberg for this carter) and then sending that one off to an expert while I work through some of the other things on it, wiring included.

[Rusty O'Toole]

thanks for the confirmation on the carb... the car DID run fine before the shaft on the carb broke and he did the swap so I think my priority is going to be trying to buy the original carb from the guy who has it now (they traded my broken stromberg for this carter) and then sending that one off to an expert while I work through some of the other things on it, wiring included.

The Carter you have now is the right carb for your car. If you get it rebuilt properly you should be in business.

My book also lists the Stromberg BXVES-3 and BXVD-3 for your car. I suspect the BXVES-3 is for the semi auto transmission models.

Edited September 30, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole

[Dustin50]

any recommendations for a place to send my carb off to for a CORRECT rebuild?