Wire Feed Welding OT

[55 Fargo]

Hey all how many ofyou are using self shielding fluxcore mig welders.

I am still using my elcheapo CH welder, but Man it's hard to lay down nice welds with one of these toys.

I would like to one day get a Miller Mig Welder,I have used one of these,and my welds look a whole lot better than my flux core box.

Any tips anyone can give me to get better welds outta my flux core?

Once I have welded sometin on a car or truck, I do grind down the welds, and they aren't so bad, they are generally strong welds, just not so purdy.

I use Lincoln .030 wire, a and try and keep things clean, the upside is, I can weld in the wind no problem, as there is no shielding gas to worry about.

I hope to1 day learn to weld with a torch, but for now all I have to work with is my old CH wire welder.

[chopt50wgn]

When I first got my mig welder,it came with the flux core wire. I did weld with that but did not like it. I found welding small brackets, holes etc went ok once you got the speed and feed right.

Then I broke down and got a bottle of gas and what a difference.

[james curl]

I saw somewhere that they were using a very small I.D. tube attached the the gun to blow air on the metal in the weld area. If you tried that you would have to find what size orifice is required or regulate the flow of air. The theory seems to be to help cool the weld area to prevent blow out. In the pictures they had real nice clean weld beads, but I think he was a professional welder who welded a lot out of doors and was trying to find a way to cut his gas cost.

Edited August 9, 2012 by james curl
addition

[bbbbbb99]

Sheilding gas helps a lot but I find it a bit hard to see the puddle with my elcheapo Craftsman 110 unit

[55 Fargo]

Sheilding gas helps a lot but I find it a bit hard to see the puddle with my elcheapo Craftsman 110 unit

Mine too, I need a new welding mask, gotta a cheap flipdown,gonna get an auto darkening type.

[mrwrstory]

Solid core wire and gas is the only way to go. It's my favorite tool. Buy a name used setup and the largest tank you can afford from a real welding supply source. You'll have a good tool for life and the gas will not be so expensive when purchased in larger amounts. Bigger is always better too as you can always dial down for thinner stock while having plenty of reserve power for thicker material. When it's breezy at my place, I can usually deal with that by using my left (gloved) hand as a "wind screen".

Auto darkening helmets are a God sent too. Bobbing your head to drop the helmet is one less skill you need to challenge yourself with when concentrating on running a nice bead. Lotsa light on the weld joint helps deal with the smoke screen

Edited August 9, 2012 by mrwrstory

[fatFreddie]

Welding 101:

FLUXCORE is for outside work or a open shop. GAS SHEILD is for indoor work. Slightest breeze blows away that expensive shield gas.

[michael.warshaw]

Dodge boy b4ya where are you to answer this question correctly...

[Flatie46]

I understand if you don't have gas and flux is all you have but your way better off using gas. It takes more amperage to use flux this means more distortion because of the extra heat and the flux causes porosity as slag gets trapped in the weld leading to rust. Before you second guess this ask a CWI they will tell you the same thing, thats what I did.

Gas isn't that expensive, turn the bottle off after every use it goes a long way. If you weld outside you can make a curtain or turn the regulator up a bit.

[falconvan]

Flux core is a no no for bodywork. It has a high acid content. I welded a quarter panel patch in a Rambler with my flux core welder, ground it smooth and it looked great after a skim coat of filler and primer. Two months after painting the car a rust line came through the paint right along the weld.

[55 Fargo]

Flux core is a no no for bodywork. It has a high acid content. I welded a quarter panel patch in a Rambler with my flux core welder, ground it smooth and it looked great after a skim coat of filler and primer. Two months after painting the car a rust line came through the paint right along the weld.

I used all flux core on my 47 Chrysler, and this never happenend ever 5 years later.

My process, weld,wire wheel and grind down welds. I use Evercoats Metal To metal filler, along weld joint, then regular filler, primer,paint etc.

I have not had 1 single patch rust or bubble, not 1 ioda.

I do realize mig wireand gas,is the way to go, but flux core was the only thing I can afford and use at the moment. Someday will upgrade, I might try the gas on this unit.

Its a 110 volt Campbell Hausfeld,it has gas capabilites, has anyone ever tried this unit with gas and mig wire.?

Some pics of the floor repair I flux core welded and fabbed the sheet metal too. This was my first such job, not the greatest, but it was strong, and is still doing well, and is rust free...

Edited August 10, 2012 by Rockwood

[james curl]

Yes, I have that rig with gas and it works ok, not like I would like it to. I picked up a used Clark unit at a swap meet that worked much better than the CH on gas but sold it to a friend who needed it more than I did. I have a self darkening helmet and even on the lighter shades I have trouble seeing the puddle and the line to weld. Do you think being 76 years old might have something to do with not being able to see?

[55 Fargo]

Yes, I have that rig with gas and it works ok, not like I would like it to. I picked up a used Clark unit at a swap meet that worked much better than the CH on gas but sold it to a friend who needed it more than I did. I have a self darkening helmet and even on the lighter shades I have trouble seeing the puddle and the line to weld. Do you think being 76 years old might have something to do with not being able to see?

The big 76,may have a role to play, heck you earned the right to not see the puddle.

Someday I will get a better welder, but really how often do I need it, not very oftn,thats for sure.

I may try the gas on my cheapo CH welder....

[falconvan]

I used all flux core on my 47 Chrysler, and this never happenend ever 5 years later.

My process, weld,wire wheel and grind down welds. I use Evercoats Metal To metal filler, along weld joint, then regular filler, primer,paint etc.

I have not had 1 single patch rust or bubble, not 1 ioda.

I do realize mig wireand gas,is the way to go, but flux core was the only thing I can afford and use at the moment. Someday will upgrade, I might try the gas on this unit.

Its a 110 volt Campbell Hausfeld,it has gas capabilites, has anyone ever tried this unit with gas and mig wire.?

Some pics of the floor repair I flux core welded and fabbed the sheet metal too. This was my first such job, not the greatest, but it was strong, and is still doing well, and is rust free...

It sure looks good. I never tried flux core after that and heard the same from others but I guess there is always an exception to the rule.

[55 Fargo]

Hey Friends, spent 2 hours welding in some time on my trucks fender edge.

I did use my elcheapo flux core, it came out not bad, had trouble getting a good ground once in while.

I deciced on lap overlap edge welds patches. I have to grind this down yet and clean up.

I am really thinking of using epoxy panel bond over entire edges, it bonds very well, and seals too, then filler will go over this.

I no this is bush league, but right now,"I am all I got", say hooray for bird$hit welds.....

Edited August 29, 2012 by Rockwood

[1flipdog]

I have a pair of glasses two powers stronger then my regular glasses that I use just for welding with auto helmet. Bought at drug store. This lets me see the puddle very easy.

[55 Fargo]

I have a pair of glasses two powers stronger then my regular glasses that I use just for welding with auto helmet. Bought at drug store. This lets me see the puddle very easy.

I also was using cheap stronger reading glasses under my helmet, makes a difference

[chopt50wgn]

I got my gas bottle at my local TSC . They have different size bottles for what you need and can afford. You buy the bottle and when it's empty, just take it in for exchange and the cost is minimal. I got a midsize bottle and it was $200 and when it's empty it costs me $39 to exchange.

[mrwrstory]

A tip offered to me by an experienced body man is,.... don't be concerned with welding the whole seam solid. And, make the tacks as small as possible so's there's min. weld material on the back side. And, and,...the little voids between each tack (1/16" or less) is a good substrate for the mechanical bonding of the body filler."

[55 Fargo]

A tip offered to me by an experienced body man is,.... don't be concerned with welding the whole seam solid. And, make the tacks as small as possible so's there's min. weld material on the back side. And, and,...the little voids between each tack (1/16" or less) is a good substrate for the mechanical bonding of the body filler."

This is true, my 47 Chrysler can attest to this, did this very thing

[55 Fargo]

A tip offered to me by an experienced body man is,.... don't be concerned with welding the whole seam solid. And, make the tacks as small as possible so's there's min. weld material on the back side. And, and,...the little voids between each tack (1/16" or less) is a good substrate for the mechanical bonding of the body filler."

Here ya go, 1st filler, opted to use my Evercoat Metal toMetal fillers on weld joint. This filler is 100% water proof anf very rust and moisture resistant.

I used a combo of generic filler, and Evercoat Gold, on the next coat.

This stuff set-up in about 2 miutes in the 95 degree heat today...

[Daliant.]

No matter what method you use to weld or how you set up your seams (overlapping tends to cause rust problems) the golden rule is to protect both sides of the weld from the elements. The outside of the panel is a no brainer: fill, prime and paint but the back side is where the damage comes from. Protect both sides of the weld and you'll never have a problem.

Any time I weld in a patch I try to prime and undercoat the backside of the weld if possible, there are some areas where you just cant access once the patch is in (like rocker panels), this is where I make a small access hole to at least attempt to coat the back of the weld.

[55 Fargo]

No matter what method you use to weld or how you set up your seams (overlapping tends to cause rust problems) the golden rule is to protect both sides of the weld from the elements. The outside of the panel is a no brainer: fill, prime and paint but the back side is where the damage comes from. Protect both sides of the weld and you'll never have a problem.

Any time I weld in a patch I try to prime and undercoat the backside of the weld if possible, there are some areas where you just cant access once the patch is in (like rocker panels), this is where I make a small access hole to at least attempt to coat the back of the weld.

Yup, I like to seal and undercoat and/or priemer the other sdie of any patch panel, makes a big difference.

On my 47 Chrysler, did this, had lap welds, and absolutely no problem with rust through.

If you can seal both sides, with primer,paint undercoating, it makes a major difference, these vehicles don't get any or much use in rain,snow, and salt weather.

[55 Fargo]

Apic of the 2nd filler, roughed in, will spot fill, then entire area will get a final skim coat with 2 part polyester glaze then primer, then high build primer/surfacer.

One edge, is a bit screwy, need to tweak that, musta been my early morning welding.....LOL

Hey anyone got a Binks Model 7 paint gun for sale??????

[RobRobitaille]

Has anyone tried using a tig. I have seen the die maintenance guys use them at work and they can do repairs to the dies that you cant see where they welded. I was wondering if you could weld the patches in solid with one? I know the cost of one is much higher then a mig though.