engine and body #

[karl head]

I was wondering if one of the guru's here could help me decipher the engine and body #'s or could point me in the right direction of info. Just want to be sure Its what its supposed to be could make my decision easier.

engine # t143-2550c

head# 1072812

body # 4713-138

[Dave72dt]

Try here:

http://t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

There's a couple links in the DPETCA site under the Pilots Knowledge section also. You'll have to scroll down to find them.

[karl head]

Try here:

http://t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

There's a couple links in the DPETCA site under the Pilots Knowledge section also. You'll have to scroll down to find them.

Thanks for the tip, I however had found this site and it did provide me with some good info, what I am trying to figure out is if the engine I have is in fact the original and any other info I can get.

Thanks Karl

[Dave72dt]

Tod may be able to help you refine the numbers or put the numbers within a "window" of "likely to be original", but no one can be certain because the documentation doesn't exit for numbers matching. No one can argue that it isn't, either. Knowing the vehicles' history would help but memories fade and previous owners pass on so you can't count on the accuracy. We do know that some remanned engines had their own ID tags placed on the motors.

Suspecting that there were more cars on the road than pickups, in the event of a catastrofic (sp) failure, a replacement from a salvage yard could be either car or truck, more likely car, your engine with a correct truck prefix is probably original. Without knowing for certain, repairing a block with a cracked water jacket versus a sound block, I'd go with the sound block every time.

"Numbers matching original" only has value when selling or telling stories. It does not affect the way it drives or rides or runs or the enjoyment you can get from it. JMO.

[karl head]

the green '48 I've been working on has been in the family since day one, and it wasn't until a few years ago that I found out that the flathead 6 was not the original motor. It's powered by a '54 Plymouth 218, painted a dark green, and when the starter was removed, I found the OKC reman-tag on the block. Dad does not remember the truck ever having its engine replaced, and he drove it for 10 years, before high school thru college + farming. Thanks to finding a shop manual I found in Hemmings, an original parts manual I found on eBay, and web sites on the internets, I've been able to determine that this truck also has a few other oddities. It was in several accidents before Grandpa took the key away from my great-grandfather, and the front sheet metal came from a black B-2 Fluid Drive. The rear fenders are from an early '48 as they do not extend beyond the bed sides as on later '48 thru '52 models, and that's consistent with the serial number. The cab, frame & tag numbers match, so the basic parts of the truck are original. I've found a '50 Dodge truck 218 that I'm gonna try to salvage for this '48, as there were several engine changes made in the early '50s that make ordering parts aggravating (for example, I have the wrong head gasket on the engine, and it weeps a li'l bit).

If your block is shot, maybe ya could find another engine to work with rather that taking the risk of patching up that one. I've found 5 engines in varying conditions over the past couple of years, and I wasn't really searching for one. From what I've read on other conversions, ya gotta really want to make another engine work as these trucks were only designed for for the 23" block engines. Upgrading to a 25" block requires some modifications, but can be done; "dropping" in a V8 looks good on paper........

lucky for me I guess is mine is a Fargo, made in Canada so it came with the 25 inch block, I have partly disassembled the engine today in order to make pulling it easier. intake and exhaust man. gas lines and the likes. the problem I am having right now is finding another block. but the hunt has only just begun......

Karl

[HanksB3B]

The rear fenders are from an early '48 as they do not extend beyond the bed sides as on later '48 thru '52 models, and that's consistent with the serial number.

49Dodge1ton,

Thanks for solving one of my Mopar Mysteries. It's been mentioned, but no one really nailed my chopped fenders till now. When my old friend Slick shouted out his window "Hey you need fenders for that thing" it was from Clarissa (his salvaged 48 parts truck) that was the donor. Now I know and Thanks!

Hank

Karl.

Welcome. You've sure got some work ahead of you. The engine is always the easiest part really. More than anything (other than the brakes) doing it right really counts. Unless you really want to add cost and time to your project I suggest going stock.

Although I didn't have to shell out $750 for an engine, I did have to spend $1,300 to have mine rebuilt. Vintage Power Wagons is a pretty big outfit and from my dealings with them always stand behind their product. Not sure if all these engines need anything more than the missing components and then just fire it up, but I am sure what you want is an engine as close to original spec as a platform to start from. I'd give Steve or Jens a call after browsing their site. Here's a link to their engine page:

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf

Good luck with your rebuild. I know 49Dodger's got your back but a word to the wise; Just never talk about baseball with him.

Hank

[karl head]

49Dodge1ton,

Thanks for solving one of my Mopar Mysteries. It's been mentioned, but no one really nailed my chopped fenders till now. When my old friend Slick shouted out his window "Hey you need fenders for that thing" it was from Clarissa (his salvaged 48 parts truck) that was the donor. Now I know and Thanks!

Hank

Karl.

Welcome. You've sure got some work ahead of you. The engine is always the easiest part really. More than anything (other than the brakes) doing it right really counts. Unless you really want to add cost and time to your project I suggest going stock.

Although I didn't have to shell out $750 for an engine, I did have to spend $1,300 to have mine rebuilt. Vintage Power Wagons is a pretty big outfit and from my dealings with them always stand behind their product. Not sure if all these engines need anything more than the missing components and then just fire it up, but I am sure what you want is an engine as close to original spec as a platform to start from. I'd give Steve or Jens a call after browsing their site. Here's a link to their engine page:

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf

Good luck with your rebuild. I know 49Dodger's got your back but a word to the wise; Just never talk about baseball with him.

Hank

Thanks Hank

I will look into it I'm guessing shipping would kill me but I will check. I am planing on going strait stock for now and maybe something special down the road, iII am trying to get her up and running asap mostly because I find that as long as a project is road worthy I tend to get things done opposed to letting it sit . So if I could pick up a engine even if its a smoker it would keep the fire burning under my A## so to speak. I will rebuild what ever I get at some point just want a runner for now.

[HanksB3B]

Karl,

In a sense, it took me a very long time and two restorations to get my truck to the point it is now, dependable non-problematic and stock. I bought my truck on a lunchbreak in 1979 and since it was my only form of transportation got it running fairly quickly. I think it was 1982 when I picked up a 79 Toyota Corolla so then I only used my truck occasionally. I parked it in 1985 and let it sit until 2005 when we bought a couple more vehicles and realized I either had to pay for my truck to be towed to a junk yard or fix it up. I had saved about $10,000 over the years for this purpose. This time around I wanted to be the producer and director as my skinny 20 year old body had seen better days. With the exception of the engine and the transmission, I personally did take every thing apart and put everything together. Most of my time during the week was spent researching and sourcing parts and labor sources. Would you believe that I was quoted as much as $13,000 and as little as $5,000 for my paint job! I don't know your skill set or just how many hours you can devote to your rebuild or just how nice or just practical a rebuild you want to do. Some things should happen now others if you skip over them (like getting it down to the frame) will require that you go backwards. I seen a couple of people boldly cut the front frame completly off thinking they are going to install a more modern independent suspension. More power to those far more experienced! Would I like to be riding on air maybe so, there are a lot of stock looking trucks from the outside and once you see the chevy shortblock, tilt-steering wheel and airbags all around am I envious? In some cases maybe, but I felt that with my truck I'd be better off coming to a full understanding of just how it was engineered and went together.

What I suggest is that you do your homework. Read as much as you can here on the forum, locate a Truck Manual and a Parts Manual if you can and get to know your vehicle. Finding what is missing should be top priority (like your seat frames)

I thought here was a good place to start:

and getting to this place felt real good:

As they say "It's a dirty job, but someone (else?) has to do it."

I did the things I was best at rebuilt and restored all the components, supervised sandblast & powdercoat operations, replaced all the brakes cylinders including lines, built the wiring harness, finished the wood and assembled the bed, mounted the cab, fenders, rebuilt the steering box and on and on. The big ticket items all the body work and paint and the engine rebuild was better left to those more qualified.

You'll do fine I'm sure,

Hank

[Jeff Balazs]

Hey Karl;

I would think you would be able to locate a suitable engine without too much trouble. As an example there was a rolling frame (108" 1/2 ton) with a complete free spinning engine, transmission and extra wheels here locally a couple of months back. It was listed on craiglist at $500. It ended up going for $200.

The 218 engine had all it's external components including the oil bath air cleaner....starter & generator and distributor....and it was not a rusty mess.

So there are deals out there. Just got to be patient.

I totally agree with Hank about taking some time to get to know what you have got. I also agree that keeping it stock or close is the easiest way to get it going. If you are new to old Mopars like me......there are some items that take a while to grasp (or come to grips with) I know I had a few relatively simple (I thought) supply side items throw me for a loop. I will say that if this were a Chevy of the same vintage it would have been a much easier project for me.

But these are really interesting trucks and I think they grow on you.

The main thing is to have fun with it!

Jeff