F1 shock relocation

[MoparAl-]

Hi guys, ive been looking at previous threads regarding fitting the F1 brackets and i wonder could anyone give me a tip on how to get the securing nuts and support plate inside the chassis rail. thanks Al

[Suess]

This may sound odd, but I have done this on a steering gear box. Once you have the bracket lined up, drill the frame through both rails. Oversize the holes then get thick walled tubing cut the tubing to the correct width. Slide the tubes into the frame and weld them into place. Now you have a very solid mounting platform..... Or cut a square hole in the bottom of the frame ( big enough for a wrench) get the nut that you are using weld it to a smaller section of plate. Put the nut in the box end of the wrench slide it into the frame while you run the bolt in.

Hope that helps

[greg g]

Take a look at Jim Yergins posts, he recently posted his procedure.

[yourpc48]

I plan to take a piece of 1/8th by one inch or inch and a half bar stock and and drill the holes in the right spots then weld nuts on the bar stock. Once I know that is a good fit I will weld a metal wire on the bar stock and slip it up through the spring hole into the frame. I can use a piece of rod thats small enough to bend but not so big that I cant manuver things around where I need them. I will position the mount where I need it and drill the holes in the frame. Then I will put everything together through the oppening in the bottom of the frame. Thats the plan anyway. I havent looked really close yet but it looks like its open into the area where the nuts would go.

The rod thing is kinda like the way they sometimes have to put a nut inside the frame when installing a tow hitch on some cars or trucks. I do like the idea of having a tube go through the frame from one side to the other. Structurally it would be nicer than just nuts but the metal plate idea has been used by others as well. The rod thing just makes it easier to get the plate with the nuts up into the frame.

[MoparAl-]

Havent tackled the shock mounts yet, need to get motivated on this tricky job so instead i took the dash apart and treated it to a coat of ivory gloss to compliment the Ruby red window surrounds and fitted a nos steering wheel. Will tackle as soon as i get a game plan.

[Jim Yergin]

I found the bolts on my shock mounts had come loose. I replaced the bolts, washers and lock washers. In doing so I discovered it is much easier to install the bolts from inside the frame and install the nuts and lock washers on the outside rather than try and get the nuts started on the bolts inside the frame. 7/16th bolts. 1 1/2" lower bolt and 2" top bolt.

Jim Yergin

Edited May 23, 2012 by Jim Yergin

[OldDad67]

I plan to take a piece of 1/8th by one inch or inch and a half bar stock and and drill the holes in the right spots then weld nuts on the bar stock. Once I know that is a good fit I will weld a metal wire on the bar stock and slip it up through the spring hole into the frame. I can use a piece of rod thats small enough to bend but not so big that I cant manuver things around where I need them. I will position the mount where I need it and drill the holes in the frame. Then I will put everything together through the oppening in the bottom of the frame. Thats the plan anyway. I havent looked really close yet but it looks like its open into the area where the nuts would go.

The rod thing is kinda like the way they sometimes have to put a nut inside the frame when installing a tow hitch on some cars or trucks. I do like the idea of having a tube go through the frame from one side to the other. Structurally it would be nicer than just nuts but the metal plate idea has been used by others as well. The rod thing just makes it easier to get the plate with the nuts up into the frame.

I've done something a little different, I used 1/2 plate tapped and drilled for 1/2 x20 nf bolts. The half inch plate serves as a nut plate due to the thickness. I will drill a third hole in the frame and when the two bolts are tightened in position I will plug weld the third hole to the frame making it permanate so I can then remove the shock mount and not have the nut plate fall down in the frame. By being a 1/2 thick I don't need to weld on any nuts.

[yourpc48]

I've done something a little different, I used 1/2 plate tapped and drilled for 1/2 x20 nf bolts. The half inch plate serves as a nut plate due to the thickness. I will drill a third hole in the frame and when the two bolts are tightened in position I will plug weld the third hole to the frame making it permanate so I can then remove the shock mount and not have the nut plate fall down in the frame. By being a 1/2 thick I don't need to weld on any nuts.

Love this idea! Because of tools (I dont have a torch to cut the steel) I will still use the welded nuts to a plate but I like the idea of welding the plate once in place. Thanks for sharing.

[OldDad67]

Here's the complete information, I finished the install yesterday. Shocks are NAPA 94038, nut plate is 1/2" thick by 2". I used the stock lower shock mounts. It was necessary to open up the frame access hole on the passenger side by using a Cresent wrench, after the nut plate was installed I used a BMFH to pound the frame back into the original position. The driver's side needed no modification.

[fstfish66]

i knew i seen this topic before,,, i just passed up several pairs of these shock brackets at the east n,s,r,a event last week,,,kicking my self,,,,

question.,,,, do u have a cavilere rack steering and gm calipers ?? if so what brake hoes to the caliper are you using ??? thanks,,

[OldDad67]

i knew i seen this topic before,,, i just passed up several pairs of these shock brackets at the east n,s,r,a event last week,,,kicking my self,,,,

question.,,,, do u have a cavilere rack steering and gm calipers ?? if so what brake hoes to the caliper are you using ??? thanks,,

I have stock steering and Old Daddy's disc brakes with a 1975 Mustang 11 mastercylinder, 10# risidual valve to the rear, a 2# risidual valve to the front and an adjustable prop valve to the rear. You can buy the shock brackets from Speedway that should do the same job.

[fstfish66]

I have stock steering and Old Daddy's disc brakes with a 1975 Mustang 11 mastercylinder, 10# risidual valve to the rear, a 2# risidual valve to the front and an adjustable prop valve to the rear. You can buy the shock brackets from Speedway that should do the same job.

thanks ill look at speed way,,

[bhoward]

Hello to all,

 I am new on here. I have a 48 plymouth Business coupe. I have gotten it on the road and I am trying improve on the suspension. The vehicle has been lowered 4 inches and rides nice. I was wondering what the advantage was to relocating the shocks and where could I find the pieces needed to complete this. I am pretty good at fabricating parts if I need to.

 

Thanks in advance. 

Edited October 28, 2015 by bhoward