Modern IFS in a P-15

[mrwrstory]

I am providing an account of the modern IFS installation on my P-15, in response to requests from several folks for documentation of the process,.....project.

Years back,...like 2001 or so, I decided to turn my Club Coupe into a real Hot Rod. It was driven for many years with "the look", big 'n' littles and dropped spindles but, the flat head 6 didn't cut it for me. A stout V8 was planned and that immediately turned into issues of steering. I wanted to get around a stock type steering layout so a R&P became the choice. I didn't like the looks of the Cavalier set up and the Fatman clip w/ MII intimitated me at the time.

So,....here's where I started

It is vitally important to set the car securely on jackstands and have it level left to right. A piece of square stock was welded to the bottom of the frame to assure rigity as the project went forward. It is also vitally important to mark the axle centerline both on the frame and on the floor, using a plumbob.

I already new the sizes and where I wanted the wheels/tires. That determined the the left to right dimension between the wheel mounting (rotor) surfaces. I liked the Kugel Komponents IFS because it had a rear steer R&P and all the geometry of the suspension was established. Check their website http://www.kugelkomponents.com/ Their customer service is first class too.

The "left to right dimension of the between the wheel mounting surfaces" was a given. I will call that dim. "C".

Dimension "A", the dimension between the wheel mtg surface and the inside of the "U" of the crossmember is fixed due to geometry and component mounting requirements. Therefore "C" minus two times "A" yields "B",....a dimension that Kugel will provide upon request (within reason). The "B" dimension falls nicely with the profile of the P-15 frame.

The "B" dimension is the outside dimension of the plywood box shown below.

The box is a fixture made for marking where the frame will be cut. The sides of the box were cut in contour to match the sweep of the frame and it was glued and screwed to maintain its' squareness and rigidity.

[mrwrstory]

Once everything is square, plum, secure and marked,

the next order of business was to build a structure to maintain the location and intergity of the core support area of the front crossmember.

and once that is done,....the cutting can begin.

to be continued:D

Edited February 13, 2012 by mrwrstory
typo

[Andydodge]

Am VERY impressed........andyd

[mrwrstory]

I feel it is important to reiterate that the "C" dimension is established by the builder. It could be the stock P-15 drum to drum dimension or something different,...influenced by tire width and wheel off-set. Be sure to check clearances at full "lock" before committing to "the dimension".

The "B" dimension is the variable as far as the suspension kit manufacturer is concerned, and he will build the center section and modify the R&P accordingly.

I went with the least expensive complete kit that Kugel offers. It requires that you do some painting. It cost a bit over $2000.00, in 2002 as I recall.

The next step was to transfer the side profile of the frame to some rigid stock which is then used as a template for cutting reinforcing plate(s). The reinforcing plates will be welded into the frame. The dimension between them, when installed, will be equal to Dim. "B". Note that the Kugel crossmember is temporarily located in place.

The vertical location of the crossmember will determine your ride height. You must determine that. Here's where an "anal" attitude pays off not to mention (again) the importance of having everything square, plumb and secure. Take a lot of pictures and notes, and measure a lot!

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The reinforcing plate(s) were made as long as possible to extend back to the cowl area. Note the gusset which was welded to the inside of the frame stock frame through access holes. the plate also goes foreward to cap off the original spring pocket.

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To complete this post, let me mention that another reason for building the structure to secure the core support location, was to assure that bumper brackets and front clip mounting points would be maintained as stock.

[mrwrstory]

After the reinforcing plates and Kugel crossmember were welded in, the outside pieces of the frame were put back in place. I also bent up some pieces to finish off the area forward of the crossmember in an attempt to keep the modifications stock looking.

Once that was all secure, I decided to trim the stock front crossmember. It was bulky looking, would have been low enough to the road to be an issue and,..was overkill with the new Kugel unit. The pattern for the plasma cut was made from untempered Masonite so that it would follow the plan view contour of the front surface.

This last image shows the final result. I'm pretty pleased with myself for undertaking this project. I don't have any second thoughts at this point. However, since I am looking at another similar project, I will look long and hard at the Fatman front clip package. A friend has just done that on a 56 Ford, and that has turned out well.

Please feel free to ask questions or for more info via this threat or a PM --- GOOD LUCK and remember "no guts,...no glory"

[freemansrodnrat]

great thread and good ideas for a modification, will do this in the future on my 36` Stude Coupe

Thanks Dirk

[JLWeiblen]

Thank you for all the info. It will be a major help not the least of time saving. 52 sub has a plan.

[rockable]

Great work,as usual, Mr. Bill!

[fstfish66]

super job,,,thanks for the pics and explaination,,,

[falconvan]

Fantastic job, Bill. I wish I had done my 48 this way. What did Kuegal charge you for that setup?

[gatz-271]

Bill, sent PM

thnx, Gatz