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Pressure Brake bleeder


yourpc48

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I have seen others but I thought this was a quick easy tool to make. I did this on the quick yesterday and it worked pretty good. Part cost was $6.19. I already had a pump up sprayer that had a bad tip on it so there was no cost there. I went down to my local hardware store and got a compression plug and some brass tubing. Drilled a hole through the metal plates and rubber plug the size of the outside diameter of the tubing. Put the tubing through the plug and put on a hose. I pumped up the sprayer and bled the air out of the line and wand then I connected the hose to the end of the wand for the pressure sprayer. put the plug in the master and tightened the nut up to seal the plug in the hole and also tightened up the plug around the tube. I cracked the furthest wheel and then put pressure to it. (I would suggest puting a hose on the bleeder and have it drain into a container.) Then went to the next closest etc. Worked slick. I had to do this because there was some gunk in the lines but getting the air out would be another reason to do it this way. Makes a one man show work pretty easy. :D

Here are some pics.

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Hey thanks Don.

Thats exactly it. I had seen this before butI left the wand on so I could stop and start the flow and I used the plug because I didnt have a spare cap to put a fitting in. The master also has internal threads. Do you know of a replacement master cylinder cap I can get at the parts store? I didnt even bother to check for that.

I thought that $4.20 for the plug was a pretty inexpensive work around.and was going to create a great seal.

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If and when you replace your master cylinder take the end cap with the two out flow fittings off of the master cylinder. It has the same threads and size as the filler cap. Screw it into the top filler hole. Plug one of the outflow ports and install a hose bib fitting in the other one to connect the output from the pressure bleeder.

Edited by james curl
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If and when you replace your master cylinder take the end cap with the two out flow fittings off of the master cylinder. It has the same threads and size as the filler cap. Screw it into the top filler hole. Plug one of the outflow ports and install a hose bib fitting in the other one to connect the output from the pressure bleeder.

Thanks. Thats a great idea. I had heard that but unfortunately I rent or I would probably have a couple of parts cars in the yard by now :( to take parts like that off. Oh well.

Don thanks for the clean out tip. I did not know that the rubber would go away on the sprayer.

I think I might try to relocate the master some time in the future so I can run the dual resvior master.

I do plan on puting in a newer rear end so I can make the gear ratio a little taller because of the short tires. If I do that then my plan is to put in a rear with disks off of an explorere and convert the front to disk and maybe rack and pinion. I wouldnt worry too much about it but I am driving the car almost every day. :D

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  • 4 years later...

I thought it best to get some feedback from forum members first, especially those that have made and used one of these already.

 

I used a new garden sprayer from WalMart to make this pressure bleeder tool. (Photo attached)

 

I used the plastic cap from the old master cylinder for this. I added a shut off valve that I picked up from the local aquarium shop near the cap. The gauge I got from Ebay and the plastic tubing from Home Depot.

 

I'm thinking that when I use it, I'll have to find a way to keep the sprayer's original valve open, maybe with a large binder clip or should I eliminate it and rely on the small valve near the cap?

 

Great idea about the plug and the set up that yourpc48 used. And thanks for the tip on cleaning out the tank after use.

 

I hope this works so that I don't have to bug others to help me LOL

 

Tony

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. . . I'm thinking that when I use it, I'll have to find a way to keep the sprayer's original valve open, maybe with a large binder clip or should I eliminate it and rely on the small valve near the cap? . . .

I used the original valve on the sprayer. But it looks like your aquarium valve is better quality, if I had that I'd have cut off the original valve.

 

If you are going to use DOT5 fluid in this, don't use the built in pump as it pushes air out the bottom into the fluid so you'll get air entrained in the fluid. Not sure how much of a problem that is with DOT3/4, it may be okay for that. I added a Schrader valve at the top of the container and use my tire chuck to pressurize it. That adds air above the fluid so it doesn't bubble through it causing an issue.

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Thanks Don. It was your tip about emptying the tank when not in use was the one I was acknowledging.

 

Todd: I am using DOT 3 brake fluid. Glad you pointed out that possible issue regarding air in the fluid using the tank's pump mechanism. Hopefully, someone that has used this with the DOT 3 and using the sprayer pump can provide a take on that. I think I can add a Schrader valve if needed.

 

That aquarium valve may not be as stout as it looks but I'll at least check it using air pressure.

 

Again, thanks for that feedback. It's been decades since I've wrenched on a car so these tips and guidance are helpful and the Plymouth so far has been most forgiving in my efforts. :lol:

 

Tony

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Reading with interest about this handy item. Do like the thought of pressurizing instead of the regular pump handle. Smaller units are available. Dumb question, but how much fluid do you start with in the tank? On the average, how much fluid is expelled for a normal 4 wheel bleed?

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