Progress Report

[JohnTeee]

Took my headers to the shop to get them hot tanked and a broken screw out of the heat riser assembly that I could not get. Turns out the guy in the shop used to work on these engines in the military and has built 15 of them, so he was very familiar with it.

He suggested that I get my riser fasteners to him so he could assemble the headers and mill the intake/exhaust ports to a single plane. They're assebmled, milled, painted and ready to go on after I get valves back in. He told me, that on first assembly, they were way out of line. Looks GOOD now!

He ground the valves and there were three intakes with bent stems. Same valves as were the worst stuck and took the most whack-a-moling. Go figure! I have three intake valves on order from NAPA and should get them this week. I'm going to start on lapping/installing the valves I have in hand, then will have the last three to go.

It's getting there.

Cheers!

John

Edited November 6, 2011 by JohnTeee
Lousy grammar. She was off baking cookies.

[greg g]

Looks good John! What is the condition/ position of the heat riser flap? Also when you install the manifolds, slightly loosen those 4 bolts holding the itake and exhust together. Then retighten them when the manifolds are suged up to the block.

[JohnTeee]

When I took it apart, the heat riser flap was frozen solid. A lot of work with PB Blaster, Propane Torch and a dental pick got it moving free and easy (carefully masked off for painting). Bushings are not wallowed out. The spring is in good shape and I have a spare from a donor to choose from. The little brass washer/keeper was trashed, but I had the donor for that too. Now that I am intimately familiar with it, I should be able to better maintain it.

I was wondering about loosening the bolts through the riser for re-installation. Is it necessary to have a little give? Won't I lose my nice milling alignment? Guess I can snug it up to the block, then re-tighten the bolts through the heat riser . . .

Cheers!

John

[greg g]

That is the recommended procedure from the manual. Are you investing in new coical brass washers and nuts? Also do not over tighten the manifold to block. You can get a torque wrench on a few, but you will need to guestimate the others. ad I believe the recommended torque is 10 to 15 lbft, with a re snug after a couple heat cycles. I would do the same with the 4 manifold to manifold bolts.

Are you haveing the block surfaced to match the manifolds??? If not is what gaskets are for...........

[JohnTeee]

I've got some reading to do before I reassemble then! <grin> Had not looked at torque for those and knew there was no way a torque wrench was going on all of them, even with a crows foot. I was cogitating on replacing the nuts and washers, had not done a search for what to use. Brass sounds like a good idea. Something that auto parts places will readily have, I hope? Read a post where Vintage Power has them . . .

Had also intended to ask about the nuts and washers that were on it. There were four thick aluminum washers, four thick steel washers and one thin steel washers. Have to admit I did not pay close attention to how they came off and can't make any sense of order - aluminum with exhaust and steel with intake as the quantities don't match up.

Also, found I have the 180F thermostat, so, one more thing to replace. <grin>

Cheers!

John

Edited November 6, 2011 by JohnTeee

[greg g]

Vintage Power Wagons does sell the nut and washer kit.

[Dave72dt]

When I took it apart, the heat riser flap was frozen solid. A lot of work with PB Blaster, Propane Torch and a dental pick got it moving free and easy (carefully masked off for painting). Bushings are not wallowed out. The spring is in good shape and I have a spare from a donor to choose from. The little brass washer/keeper was trashed, but I had the donor for that too. Now that I am intimately familiar with it, I should be able to better maintain it.

I was wondering about loosening the bolts through the riser for re-installation. Is it necessary to have a little give? Won't I lose my nice milling alignment? Guess I can snug it up to the block, then re-tighten the bolts through the heat riser . . .

Cheers!

John

Run a staightedge across the ports on the block. As long as it's flat and true there should be no need to loosen those bolts. Heat tends to erode the exhaust ports on the manifold so the intakes end up clamping firmly on the gasket while the exhaust does not, further exarerbating the leaking and burned exhaust portions. With eerything flat, leaks should not exist and the gasket will remain in good condition for a long time.