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Posted

I got my body bolted back onto my frame to keep everything square while I cut my rockers (and floor) out. The pictures show the start of the repair. I plan on using 2" x 3" rectangular tubing instead of forming some sheet metal and trying to duplicate the original rockers. The tubing will go from the front door post area clear back to the front of the rear fender line. I plan on welding the floor braces (along with gussets) into the tubing and then I will also then tie the floor into the tubing.

Jeff

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Posted

The third photo shows what was under the quarter panel section between the door post (rear part) and the rear fender. After I place the tubing in I will need to weld back in the section of skin I removed.

Jeff

Posted

The original rocker actually continues the "shape" you see inthe door threshold section and then is covered over with the body skin, but in my case the rocker was totally eaten away by rust.

Jeff

Posted
support2.jpgHere is what I did with sqaure tube steel, it worked out fine, I then capped it over with sheet metal to form the rocker. Standing outside the car, you would never know it was done like this, and it is very strong..........Fred
Posted

I used the complete rocker, sill, lower plate from P"lymouth Doctor. The parts were a little costly but they sure made it easy.

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Posted

Jeff, looks like you have a daunting task ahead of you. Keep the updates coming

I have the same quarter panel wrap over on my '49 Chrysler. On the outside, the quarter panel at the bottom looks bad:

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But from underneath, the rocker itself is in pretty decent shape:

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The drivers rocker is very solid, just needing a small area cut out. Even the seat mounts are in good shape. Just some small areas to repair:

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The passenger side is just a few dozen floor pinholes, the rocker is solid.

Around here, they use alot of salt, so having this is this condition was a pleasant surprise.

Now, to get it on it's wheels and running :eek:

Posted

I made a little more progress with my rocker repair. The 1st picture shows the 2" x 3" piece of tubing in its' approximate location. It will be tied into the front door post support shown in the 2nd and 3rd pictures. (I was wondering if the door post was supported just by the floor). The 4th and 5th pictures show the tubing from the rear door post to the fender. I will be cutting the tube to length and then will cap it so it will blend into the rear inner part of the fender well. I have cut away the inner/upper and what's left of the outer rocker (on the back quarter panel section) so I can slide in a piece of flooring. I will be replacing the whole front floor section except for the tunnel.

Jeff

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Posted

I really admire the talent, knowledge and big balls that you guys in this forum have when it comes to cutting your car up. In the near future, I have to replace the rockers on my 42 dodge and do some other body work and I'm pretty hesitent about it. I'm just learning how to weld and have bought several books on body repair and welding...but still, cutting that much off the car.....wow. All the pics and advise that you "seniors" share with us rookies is very much appreciated and needed by newbies like me!! Just wanted to say thanks to all of ya!:D

Glenn

Guest jtw3749c
Posted

The nice thing about sheet metal is, if you cut to much, you can weld it back. Years ago, when I worked in a Body Shop, the owner told me, look at it, make your calculations and cut. That's all there is to it. So I did! But you just got to think it out and try to visualize what your going to do. If that fails, ask questions.

Posted

Got some work done on my rocker rebuild. I capped the ends of tubing that will become the new rocker and drilled drain holes. On the back end I drilled/tapped and welded a piece of 3/8" flat bar to the back cap for the bottom fender bolt. I also made the tube supports. I made some patterns and cut up some 1/8" flat bar. The back 2 mounts will fit inside of the floor channel supports but the front was alittle rotten so I had to end up boxing it. I am going to hang the door back on before I start welding it in to check for fit. The original rockers actually have a 3/8"-1/2" inward curve to them that matches the slight curve in the door but hopefully there won't be problems. The pile of rotten steel continues to grow as I whittle away at it.

Jeff

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Guest rockabillybassman
Posted

Morson82...... The secret is....there is no secret! You've just got to get up the courage to dive in on it. I replaced the rockers on my 55 Plymouth without knowing a damn thing. Made a template, cut them out, made friends with a guy in an engineering shop who folded the new ones up in return for a dozen beer, welded the new ones in, made mistakes, learnt how to fix those mistakes, an angle grinder is a great tool for tidying up rough welding.... :D

Posted
The back 2 mounts will fit inside of the floor channel supports

Jeff

i like that idea i can stare at theses photos all day its kinda what i had pictured in my mind but couldn't put it to paper now its seems so easy i really like how strong its going to be will you be welding a bead between the two square tubes that recreate the fold of the rocker or cover with sheet metal

what i did was made a paper template of the shape of the rocker and had it folder up for me but it is only a cover no support but now im starting the way you showed can't wait to see more

Posted

Hi Joel,

I have the 1/2"x1" tube laying up on the 2"x3" tube to give me a straight edge. I plan on bending up a piece of sheetmetal that will take it's place but you could leave it if you want.

Jeff

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Finally made some more progress on the rocker/floor repair on my D-24. Nothing is ever easy, my straight piece of 2x3 rocker tube couldn't be straight because the door has a slight 1/2" curve to it (see 1st 2 pics). I don't know if this is unique to the 3 window business coupes or if the 5 window coupes curve too? Anyway, I made a couple of cuts (not all the way thru) and bent the tube (3rd pic) to match the door curve (4th and 5th pic). Once that was complete I welded the tubing to the floor cross supports & the front door support. I then removed the body from the frame and put it back on the rotisserie for the floor repair. I have the drivers side floor tacked in and am working on the passenger side now. After I get all the floor tacked in I will go back thru and weld all the seams.

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Posted

Here's some pics of the floor repair I'm doing. It's amazing that there is nothing flat or straight on this car everything curves or has a slope to it. One side down and am working on the other.

Jeff

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