dmulhall Posted March 28, 2007 Report Posted March 28, 2007 I'm going to be fixing or rebuilding the 218 in my b2b this spring... is there a popular place on the net where I can get engine parts or rebuild kits? preferably for a decent price? would napa happen to carry something like that? I dont know if my local engine shop would be able to get them or not? the person I bought the truck off of apparently did the rings and bearings in it. But it has had a (what sounds like a rod bearing knock?) since shortly after I bought it. it runs and starts so good I dont really feel like re-doing the whole engine, would it be possible to just pull all the caps off and find the bearing that is gone and replace it? how would I tell if it is a standard bearing or bored out? could there be any other engine damage from this? what should I be watching for? I have only put about 100 miles on the "so called engine rebuild" and the previous owner never did drive it after the rebuild.... only out of his garage to the backyard every year... Thanks for any help Dave Quote
grey beard Posted March 28, 2007 Report Posted March 28, 2007 Wow, Dave - That's a buncha' questions! First off, the best source of flattie engine parts to my knowledge is Terrell Machine in Texas, listed in the parts resources section of this web site. If you do some lurking and reading, you will find some amazing "cobwebby" corners in this web site with much excellent information. Diagnosing engine noises long distance over the internet is sketchy at best, in light of all the myriad possiblilties for causes of same. You'll likely get as many different answers as people you ask. If someone indeed overhauled your engine and didn't just do a "rattle-can" overhaul, several things may be likely. 1. New bearings may have been dropped in without first inspecting all the journals, and one may have been egg-shaped, wiping out a rod bearing. If this is fact, pulling the pan and checking each rod cap will revel the culprit. 2. If new bearings were replaced on a good crankshaft, it is possible - even likely - that the person who did the overhaul did not check the wrist pin bushings on tops of the rods. These are subject to wear on these engines, since they are lubricated primarily from splash oil in the crankcase. Wrist pin slap is a lot different than rod bearing rattle. A good local tech should be able to listen and sort you out. 3. Your noise may SOUND like a bearing and be caused by something else - a loose flywheel, broken valve train component, etc. A little sleuthing with a stethiscope and a jumper wire to short out individual cylinders may revel the cause. 4. It is never wise to pull an engine apart for a noise without first doing a lot of diagnosis. When you do this, you may be confronted with a lot of good lookiing parts. Then what will you do? It is possible that others on this forum have wandered down this blind alley in the past - it's easy to do, in the hope that the cause of the noise will reveal itself - but this doesn't always happen. I would rather spend hours diagnosing and hunting the noise with a running engine than be confronted with a torn down unit where everything looks just peachy. Long answers to your many questions. Keep looking for your noise and don't be afraid to ask questions here on this forum - lots of great knowledge here and many kind people willing to help. JMHO:) Quote
dmulhall Posted March 29, 2007 Author Report Posted March 29, 2007 Hello Dave, Thanks for the help... awhile ago I tried shorting out each cylinder, but the noise was still there and didnt change any...confused me....(I'm no expert) but to me it sounds like a wrist pin...but a friend of mine came by and listened to it, and he said more than likely it was a rod bearing..? Like I said, I'm no expert....but the noise gets worse as the engine warms up...as long as you are accelerating, or the engine is idling it is fine...it is just when your decelerating or just cruising along at a constant rpm that it starts to knock...I would sure like to know which cylinder to look at before ripping it apart.. Thanks Guys, All your comments are greatly appreciated! Sincerely, Dave Mulhall Quote
bach4660 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 I think greybeard pretty much covered it, the noise should stop if you disconnect the spark plugs one at a time and turn the engine over. Try the mechanics stethoscope of using a long screwdriver against your ear to hear where the noise gets louder. Federal Mogul makes a gasket kit for these engines, part number- FS-7688, if you do need to take anything apart. Quote
PatS.... Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 For parts, this company is in Westbank BC (Kelowna) http://www.nosmopar.com/ He has complete engine rebuild kits: http://www.nosmopar.com/AMC%20Buick%20Cadillac%20Chev%20Chrysler%20Products%20and%20Ford%20Products.JPG Best to contact them by phone, the email system is bad. Prices are good. Fellows name is Jim. Welcome to the forum. Quote
greg g Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 When I did my engine I used Terrill and Egge. Egge is in cali and they have a website catalog and price list. You can also get good stuff from Vintage Power Wagons. Quote
Guest 51plymouthod Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 NAPA does offer parts and still has a wide coverage for Chrysler 218 & 230 engines. Their website is good...but sometimes you'll find they have available parts not shown, unless you have a part number. What I do is get the price from the internet, then get the price at the local store. Often (but not always) if you have a good local NAPA, they'll sell the parts to you cheaper. Also, DO check with Terrill Machine, near DeLeon, Texas. I've found them to be good, honest country folks, knowledgeable about Chrysler flatheads, and their prices are reasonable. Quote
busywait Posted March 30, 2007 Report Posted March 30, 2007 hey dave, FWIW, this hemmings article lists over three dozen parts suppliers that specifically handle dodge pickups: http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2006/04/01/hmn_feature26.html?t=printable Quote
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