Jim Yergin Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Joe, Rather than have it lost in all the posts about working out your problems, I do want to congratulate you on getting the engine to start. That is great news. You will get everything else worked out. Jim Yergin Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 Thanks, Jim. I got a new solenoid at a local parts store ($20). I'll be putting it in this afternoon and will see how it works. Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Joe, once you get it running and up to operating temp remember to re-torque your head bolts. I have done mine twice so far and was supprised how much more I could turn some of the bolts. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Posted March 14, 2011 Rodney Bullock must be good luck because no sooner did I get off the phone with him than I walked out, started my engine, and ran it for 25 minutes without incident. Today I got a new solenoid and installed it. The engine would start but I couldn't keep it running. I was also having trouble with the starter not wanting to disengage from the flywheel. Any time the engine caught, though, it kicked the starter gear back into its case so maybe it's not a problem. Also, it seems to do it less the more I run the engine so maybe its a matter of working the kinks out. I have a small oil leak either from the front main seal or the timing chain cover, I can't tell which. Otherwise, totally dry. One strange thing that happened: One time, I turned the switch, cranked the starter, turned it off, and the starter kept cranking, even with the switch in the off position. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. This is a brand new solenoid. Tapped it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver and all was well but I don't like it. And another thing. The quickie temp gauge I got from the local auto parts store doesn't seem to work. How could that be? Anyway, I re-torqued all my head bolts and yes, I was surprised how loose they had gotten. I'll be doing it again after the next run. My valves are kind of noisy but I will be adjusting them soon. So I'm happy I got it running and there don't seem to be any major issues. I just need to get it so it will run at idle. Quote
Alshere59 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 (edited) Congrats. Glad to hear you got it worked out for the most part. So what was your initial valve setting? Actually I was wondering what did you and Aero both use? He didn't mention any valve noise? Mine had a bit more than I like using the cold setting of 14. Per my manual. Edited March 14, 2011 by Alshere59 Quote
aero3113 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Alshere, I was lucky and have no valve noise. When my machinist adjusted them cold he kept the hot adjustment in mind, he adjusted them a little off to compensate, for some reason I remember him saying 12? I could be making that number up. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 Joe; Is your engine block full of water? If not that is why your temp gauge is not working. Quote
Robert Horne Posted March 14, 2011 Report Posted March 14, 2011 I bought a new manual temperature gauge at the auto parts store for my Plymouth. Before I installed it, I put the end that goes in the block, into a glass of hot water to see if it worked, and to see how accurate it was.... Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Posted March 15, 2011 Never thought of that, Don. Maybe I need to top off. I do have a little bit of coolant leaking from around where the throttle linkage goes into the head. I forgot to seal those threads. That seems to indicate I do have water getting up that high but I think I will check my level all the same. Quote
kbuhagiar Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Hello, Joe, Congratulations on the start-up! One strange thing that happened: One time, I turned the switch, cranked the starter, turned it off, and the starter kept cranking, even with the switch in the off position. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. This is a brand new solenoid. Tapped it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver and all was well but I don't like it. Not to be a doomsayer, but a friend of mine years ago had his 67 Nova go up in flames because of a balky solenoid. He was used to popping the hood and either tapping on the solenoid or disconnecting the battery to "fix" it. One day the problem repeated, but the hood stuck closed. Disaster in just a couple of minutes. Edited March 15, 2011 by kbuhagiar Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 15, 2011 Author Report Posted March 15, 2011 Congrats. Glad to hear you got it worked out for the most part. So what was your initial valve setting? Actually I was wondering what did you and Aero both use? He didn't mention any valve noise? Mine had a bit more than I like using the cold setting of 14. Per my manual. My manual calls for 10 on the intakes cold and 13 for the exhaust cold. That's how I set them but I might have a couple that exceed 13. Quote
PatS.... Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 Congrats on a 25 minute run, Joe. Seems like getting the kinks out takes longer than the rebuild. At least you will be very familiar with it Quote
blueskies Posted March 15, 2011 Report Posted March 15, 2011 ...So I'm happy I got it running and there don't seem to be any major issues... Hey Joe- Happy to hear you have your flatty running again! Now to post a vid clip so we can hear it... I miss the sound of my old '50... Pete Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Posted March 16, 2011 I ran it again for another half hour this afternoon. Changed the oil and filter first after the first run. I set the timing, idle speed, and idle mixture and it is now running very nicely. A little late, but I will get back in there and fix that. I figure I'll keep doing this until I've run it for something like 8 hours and then start putting the car together. Oh, and the starter seems to have stopped acting up. Quote
Jim Yergin Posted March 16, 2011 Report Posted March 16, 2011 Joe, The $64 question: is the noise in #6 gone? Jim Yergin Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 16, 2011 Author Report Posted March 16, 2011 Yes, it's gone, but last time it didn't begin until after the engine had been running for quite some time and only in short bursts of acceleration. I think I had the engine running for a few weeks when that sound appeared. Quote
Rodney Bullock Posted March 18, 2011 Report Posted March 18, 2011 Hey Joe, I don't think you will have that problem in number 6 because your break in method is dead on. I am so glad it's running continuos. This is a milestone. It is very smart for you to run it until the kink are out and then reassemble the car. "That's a tight fit":eek: as the grease man would say. The weather is fantastic today as I am on my way up to frederick county fairgrounds this morning to get some Studebaker parts. Today I must say is a good day. I have been helping this guy with his projecy(1947 Ford Convertible) I want his flathead so I can build a traditionmal hot rod. It coming along howver it taking up to much of my time. He don't want the motor so I'm taking that and the rear. Oh boy another project:rolleyes:What on earth am I doing:eek: Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Posted March 18, 2011 Thanks Rodney. I hope it holds together. There wasn't anything different about the way I broke it in last time. Last time, I ran it at about 1200 RPMs for twenty-five minutes or so. Same as this time. Whatever the knock was about, it was something else, I think. It idles at a steady 180 degrees and the oil pressure is good. Today the temps are supposed to be in the 70s so you have a good day to go after your next project. I'd like to see this flathead V8. Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 18, 2011 Author Report Posted March 18, 2011 Set the timing and adjusted the valves today. I used both the timing light and a vacuum gauge and wound up a couple of degrees before TDC and at about 20 on the gauge, which is shown as the "normal" range. I opened up the valve panels and let the engine run until it got nice and hot. Then went in there with my feeler gauge to check the valves with the engine running. I was really happy to find out that only two needed adjustment and they were at the front of the engine. All the others are dead on at 10 thousandths. Boy, was I glad I didn't have to go in there with a pair of wrenches. I guess that shows the wisdom of the cold setting, that when they're hot they'll be where they're supposed to be allowing for expansion. The engine runs nice and quietly now and the next thing is to see if my ignition switch, ammeter, VR, generator all work. I've been using a bypass arrangement since I earlier suspected my switch was bad. Looks like it was really the solenoid that was causing the problem but we shall see. Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted March 19, 2011 Report Posted March 19, 2011 That's good to hear. I'm glad for ya. Tom Quote
aero3113 Posted March 19, 2011 Report Posted March 19, 2011 That's great Joe! The noise you had from the valves, did it go away once you adjusted the two? Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 19, 2011 Author Report Posted March 19, 2011 Yes, the noise went away after adjustment. It is now far more quiet than it was. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.