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Cav rack install pics in 52 Windsor


BeBop138

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Things seem to be going well at my friends shop----aka--Oppies Hot Rods. Got pics of the mock brackets he made to hang the rack for measurements. His bump steer gauge for setting it in place. Some other pics of it hanging in place. The pan is off as he may need to put a slight dimple in it for rack clearance. He shortened the lower spindle arms over two inches to get it to go almost lock to lock with the rack----more pics on those next trip. The one side that he has finished you would never know the were shortened---the guy knows how to weld. Did some mods on the tie rods for easier adjustment for alignment.Some mods for the lower shock mount and upper bracket for the shock----pics later................more updates as progress allows---could be done by the end of next week:D..................Lee

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What do you plan on doing with the old center link that mounts on the front cross member that the tie rods fasten to? One could possibly mount it on a P-15 and use a GM power steering unit on the frame and cross steer the drag link to the third hole in the center link and get the steering box up on top of the frame and father away from the engine. I am sure someone here on the forum would buy it from you if you decide to sell it. Even if it is worn out it requires a core to purchase a rebuilt center link.

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I have on occasion been slapped when making this comment but, bare with me, nice looking rack:rolleyes: Will you have any oil pan clearance issues?
As mentioned in the post---it may need a slight dent put in it for clearance---if it needs more than that it will only be a slight modification to the pan-----will show before and after pics. My pan is from VPW and is the truck style---different from the car...........yes I like nice racks myself:D......Thanks
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What do you plan on doing with the old center link that mounts on the front cross member that the tie rods fasten to? One could possibly mount it on a P-15 and use a GM power steering unit on the frame and cross steer the drag link to the third hole in the center link and get the steering box up on top of the frame and father away from the engine. I am sure someone here on the forum would buy it from you if you decide to sell it. Even if it is worn out it requires a core to purchase a rebuilt center link.
Will let you know when I get the parts out. The drag link is brand new---NOS---maybe a thousand miles since I installed it---I have a new itermediate bearing also----the steering shaft will be cut and new ends milled on it for the new joints-----I am retaining the old wheel. Thanks .......Lee
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What do you plan on doing with the old center link that mounts on the front cross member that the tie rods fasten to? One could possibly mount it on a P-15 and use a GM power steering unit on the frame and cross steer the drag link to the third hole in the center link and get the steering box up on top of the frame and father away from the engine. I am sure someone here on the forum would buy it from you if you decide to sell it. Even if it is worn out it requires a core to purchase a rebuilt center link.
Here is the parts---I have no idea what to ask for these parts. Except the drag link, it has about a thousand miles on it and it is a NOS part---cost me $125 bucks----is there any interest?

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Lee, nice work there, I hava had a rack in my 40 Dodge since 1973, the current one is an Austin 1800 rack & pinion I narrowed 9", got rid of most of the bump steer with it and also had the steering arms shortened 1" by an automotive blacksmith 30yrs ago to get the turning circle back.......lol........I intend to use a RHD version of the Cavalier rack that was used in Oz on the Holden Camira........am impressed with the overall quality of work, very nice indeed.......andyd

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Very nice workmanship Lee! Thanks for posting all the pics! It will help me as i try to do a similiar upgrade. Can't wait to see how you do the pump. It is a power rack right? From the pics i think so. Carry on!

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Very nice workmanship Lee! Thanks for posting all the pics! It will help me as i try to do a similiar upgrade. Can't wait to see how you do the pump. It is a power rack right? From the pics i think so. Carry on!
Here are some picks of the pump set-up. The pump is off a Grand AM----I do have more info on a previous post---use the search, it should be there.............I can do quite a bit of my own work BUT--as Dirty Harry said---a man has to know his limitations. I had someone install the rack---it is a little more than I wanted to tackle. This guy is top notch and his fabrication skills and welding are far better than mine. You only do this stuff once and sometimes ( and usually is ) cheaper to have a pro do it. He builds race cars and has been doing this stuff for years. Steve is his name and his shop is called Oppies Hot Rods. Thanks...........Lee

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Lee

What is the reservoir you are using for the PS? What adapter did you use on the pump to go to a remote reservoir?

thanks

kai

The reservoir is off a Toyota and the pump was set up from Pontiac as a remote fill---all I could get when I went to the bone yard was the pump---- I wanted something that had the same pressure used on the Cavalier rack------the res was just, get something that would work and the Toyota just seemed to fit the bill---I thought it looked OK so I went with it. Oppie designed the brackets for the pump and alt along with the small bracket on top to fit the Toyota piece----as I said the guy is a tremendous fabricator.....................Thanks.............Lee Edited by BeBop138
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I made this little adapter so that I could use the stock tie rod end (right hand thread - inner) and the stock Cavalier adjuster. Since you modified the steering arms the length of the cut off tie rod probably will change a little. The right hand thread of the tie rods that you have listed as not used are the ones I cut for the adapter.

If only I could weld as well as your guy does, love it.

kai

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I made this little adapter so that I could use the stock tie rod end (right hand thread - inner) and the stock Cavalier adjuster. Since you modified the steering arms the length of the cut off tie rod probably will change a little. The right hand thread of the tie rods that you have listed as not used are the ones I cut for the adapter.

If only I could weld as well as your guy does, love it.

kai

I will take some pics of the tie rods next trip out. He did the marriage of the stock tie rod ends and the Cav pieces. You have the Cav nut for adjusting, same as yours...............Lee
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I've continued to toy with the idea of using the Fatman Fabrications kit to put a Cavalier rack on my '50 Wayfarer, but I keep hearing that the turning radius ends up being wider. Looks like a substantial piece was taken out of the steering arms on this conversion--what is the turning radius like without shortening the arms--anyone had experience with that? It would be one thing if the "wider turning radius" means an occasional extra shot at getting into a parking place, but quite another if it gets in the way of on-the-road maneuvers and turns. Any experience with this?

And if one does go with shortening the steering arms, how to assure that the welding is adequate? I seem to remember other threads cautioning against this.

Thanks--and the pictures were a great help in figuring out what's going on!

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I've continued to toy with the idea of using the Fatman Fabrications kit to put a Cavalier rack on my '50 Wayfarer, but I keep hearing that the turning radius ends up being wider. Looks like a substantial piece was taken out of the steering arms on this conversion--what is the turning radius like without shortening the arms--anyone had experience with that? It would be one thing if the "wider turning radius" means an occasional extra shot at getting into a parking place, but quite another if it gets in the way of on-the-road maneuvers and turns. Any experience with this?

And if one does go with shortening the steering arms, how to assure that the welding is adequate? I seem to remember other threads cautioning against this.

Thanks--and the pictures were a great help in figuring out what's going on!

It takes about 5 turns with the stock steering and about 3 with with the Cav unit. My guy said about 60-65% of the amount needed---that is why the lower spindles were cut. He has done this numerous times on race cars over the years without incidence. I have seen his welding skills and the pics show on here how they look---I trust them to be OK.
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BeBop, thanks for posting this thread. I'm going to probably do this to my '41 Plymouth while I have the body off the frame. Can you show some shots of the tie rods after you've got everything connected?

Your guy is definitely a fine welder. I've already shortened my steering arms, as I had to do that when I lowered it. Is he going to bend them to get Ackerman geometry corrected?

Thanks

Rock

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