fstfish66 Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 did this topic end ? i think i lost it when the forum updated,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Topic still "Alive" !!! Just "old-N-slow" and my computer doesn"t seem to want to work well with the new Forum format (or it could just be me??), so not posting as frequently. Cass, alias littlemo.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted November 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2013 HAPPY THANKSGIVING to ALL and their FAMILIES !! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 (edited) Weather around here still rather cool and damp, but occasional hints of Spring, so time to organize my next "to-do" list; #1; install new starter, #2 install new Alternator, #3 take drive shaft to have it cut to length and balanced, #4 begin installation of my new Wiring Harness, and #6 get this baby running and backed out of the garage on its own !!! Whooieee !!! That'll make me happy !! Cass, alias littlemo... Ehh, what happened to #5 ??? Edited June 20, 2014 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted March 29, 2014 Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 Sounds great, Cass! I want to see it on the road this summer so get on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted March 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2014 What could possibly go wrong with a plan like that ???? Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 My "To-Do" list seems to be coming along nicely. I installed my new Alternator and purchased the new starter for the 318; now to get it on. In addition my E_Z Wiring kit arrived and a friend dropped off my new "rebuilt & shortened" drive shaft !!! "the FUN" begins !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blucarsdn Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 I sort of fast forwarded through this tread.. I was wondering if you used the stock rear springs under your Plym? When I was rebuilding the running gear on my '39 Plym I optded of a GM 8-3/4" ten bolt rearend because of size, it was the same size weigth wise as the original.. My v8 engine and automatic trans was to much for the stock Plymouth rear springs,, I went to a set of springs made by Posie for the Plymouth, We also made a new set of improved rear shackles,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 At this point, the rear springs are stock. Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 i have posies rear super slide leafs on my 40 ddoge,, they lowered the car about 2 inches i think and ride nice,,also have bilstien rear shocks made just for the posie lowering leafs, mounted in the stock location and a fat sway bar,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) Although I had "offset" my 318 engine approx 1.5 in. to the passenger side of of the engine compartment, there still wasn't enough room between the block and the steering sector to enstall the stock starter. After a couple PM's to fellow forum members and a little more research, I finally opted on a new "Mini" torque reduction starter designed to fit a 90's Dakota and early 90's to mid 90's 2wd Ram truck or van with the 318 engine (??) This starter fit perfect and clears the stock steering sector with room to spare.( Ultima # 17466) Hope it works as good as it fit??? Will let you know when I get it "wired to start & run !!!" Edited April 11, 2014 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Although I had "offset" my 318 engine approx 1.5 in. to the passenger side of of the engine compartment, there still wasn't enough room between the block and the steering sector to enstall the stock starter. After a couple PM's to fellow forum members and a little more research, I finally opted on a new "Mini" torque reduction starter designed to fit a 90's Dakota and early 90's to mid 90's 2wd Ram truck or van with the 318 engine (??) This starter fit perfect and clears the stock steering sector with room to spare.( Ultima # 17466) Hope it works as good as it fit??? Will let you know when I get it "wired to start & run !!!" from your pic it doesnt look like th high torque starter from the turcks,,,which was originally from the mopar performace side,,,the one u have pictured looks like the min starter,, im not sure where it was used as i have the same mini in my coupe,,,one of these day im going to pick up the high torque starter as they run for ever,,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 (edited) fstfish66; When you change over to the "High-Torque" starter, let me know the results; I would like to know if there's a big advantage in going that direction ?? . Thanks for the info .. Cass, alias littlemo.... Edited May 8, 2014 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 fstfish66; When you change over to the "High-Torque" starter, let me know the results; I would like to know if there's a big advantage in going that direction ?? . Thanks for the info .. Cass, alias littlemo.... the factory hi torque or after market starters turn faster using less power to do it the nthe older starters and they last a long time,,,, any dakota or dodge ram truck with a 318 or 360 from the late 1990s to 2002 uses this type starter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 That was what I was led to believe as well, and what I stipulated when ordering my current starter from O'Reilly Auto Parts. The starter they supplied was an Ultima #17466 , which is what I currently have installed. Thanks, Cass alias littlemo ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Some folks call them 'Peanut', or 'Dak' or high torque starters, but my limited 'new-parts' exposure says they are all the same. I do know that they are small and work well in all of my EarlyHemi applications. $80 on ebay..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 (edited) Don't know if this will help anyone but; while attaching my "rebuilt and shortened" driveshaft with new 7260 u-joints (referred to as "the small Dodge" joint) to the 741 rearend I had put in the 48 a couple years ago, I ran into a trial and error, running exchange with my parts store to find the proper u-joint straps. Each set I would try, something wouldn't be right. The dia. of the c-clips were wrong, the dia. of the bolts that thread into the rear yoke or the thread type would be incorrect. For the record, The final solution was a pair of "Dorman" U-Joint repair kits # 81006. The clips were the correct dia. for those u-joints and the bolts were 1/4 NF (20 or 22) TPI which correctly fit that rear yoke . Note that the 741 is the "smaller" mopar rearend, the u-joint retention bolts were a smaller dia.then other sets I had tried, and the Dorman kit specified being designed for 1310 or 1330 u-joint caps of 1.062" dia. as well as being manufactured in Taiwan ??? But I used-em !!! Cass, alias littlemo Edited May 10, 2014 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Sounds like you've got some good progress going, Cass. It there a test drive in the near future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted May 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2014 Thanks falconvan, getting ready to "tackle" the new wiring as we speak !!! Cass, alias littlemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Considering relocating the radiator to the front of the support bracket in order to gain additional clearance between my cooling fan and my radiator; Question is, what to do with the "latch-plate support " ?? those of you who have made this modification please elaborate . Thanks, Cass alias littlemo.. PS: Sorry about picture quality !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 What you call the latch plate support is more like a support for the horn mounting bracket that attaches to the latch plate. In my case I did not have room for the factory horns so I simply did not use that bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 I also moved the top radiator support bracket strut to the rear of the radiator support bracket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daliant. Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 The latch plate stays but the horn bracket and horns need to be removed. The core support needs to be unbolted and flipped around or the cross-bar for the horn bracket needs to be cut off and reattached to the other side by grinding the rivets off and re riveting or bolting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daliant. Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Looks like Don beat me to it, with pictures too. Edited July 8, 2014 by Daliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
littlemo Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) Thanks Guys, will follow your advice; I was just wondering if that "Hood Latch Plate" would be solid enough without the "Horn" brace, you have put my fears to rest!! Cass, alias littlemo... PS: Thanks Don for the pics !! What are you using for horns ?? Edited July 9, 2014 by littlemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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