70rtse440 Posted December 9, 2010 Report Posted December 9, 2010 I'm putting my B-3-C back together. What fits between the fender and the cab? see attached picture Quote
Reg Evans Posted December 9, 2010 Report Posted December 9, 2010 (edited) A piece of rubber molding probably available at Steele Rubber Products. Filler 12-02-6 Edited December 9, 2010 by Reg Evans Quote
Bradley S. Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 Found this old thread and have another question for you Dodge gurus. I have the Dennis Carpenter filler for the fender to cowl area. What about that vertical piece of filler shown in the exploded drawing? Are you guys using the Denis Carpenter filler for here too or perhaps nothing is necessary here. Does this vertical filler make a seal between the fender and, what, the cowl and fender extension? Going to get my truck from the paint shop this Friday! Can't wait to start putting it back together. Too dang cold right now in northern Illinois to do much. Brad Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 I bought seal material from McMaster-Carr (P/N 1141A1). It is similar to the filler from Dennis Carpenter, but it is gray (it can be painted black). Quote
Bradley S. Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks Barry! What does it seal? Brad Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 Thanks Barry!What does it seal? Brad I think more of an anti-squeek/filler than a "seal". Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 I think more of an anti-squeek/filler than a "seal". I think that ggdad1951 is corrrect in that it is a filler rather than a seal. I used it with spit rivets on both "mud guards" (probably not the correct term). In time, I will use it also on both front fenders. The material is very similar to what was left of the original filler on my fenders and guards, and it has a foam core. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 I think that ggdad1951 is corrrect in that it is a filler rather than a seal. I used it with spit rivets on both "mud guards" (probably not the correct term). In time, I will use it also on both front fenders. The material is very similar to what was left of the original filler on my fenders and guards, and it has a foam core. question for you, how did you set your split rivets? I have an idea to manufacture an anvil, but if there is a better way... Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Posted January 18, 2012 Pop Rivets boooo! Restoration, not simplicity! Quote
Jim Shepard Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 I'm putting my B-3-C back together. What fits between the fender and the cab? see attached picture Roberts also has it. Part # T98 - $9. Quote
HanksB3B Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 boooo! Restoration, not simplicity! Hank Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 question for you, how did you set your split rivets? I have an idea to manufacture an anvil, but if there is a better way... I used a blunt cold chisel to bend the legs down about 45 degrees and then bent them flat with a hammer and drift pin. Not a good process, but it worked. Since then, I ordered a split rivet tool from Restoration Supply Company that is designed to spread the legs uniformly. It hasn't arrived yet. When it does, I will update this. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 I used a blunt cold chisel to bend the legs down about 45 degrees and then bent them flat with a hammer and drift pin. Not a good process, but it worked. Since then, I ordered a split rivet tool from Restoration Supply Company that is designed to spread the legs uniformly. It hasn't arrived yet. When it does, I will update this. How much was the tool/got a PN? I ddin't see one intheir catalog. I palyed with the cold chisel when I did my dust plate for the flywheel, got them to curve a bit, but yah, most ended pretty flat. Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 How much was the tool/got a PN? I ddin't see one intheir catalog. I palyed with the cold chisel when I did my dust plate for the flywheel, got them to curve a bit, but yah, most ended pretty flat. The tool is listed on page 49 of their Spring, 2011 catalog. P/N LEA017, $16.50. I agree - mine were almost flat on that same dust plate. We will see if the tool works as it was designed. I have been fooled before. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 19, 2012 Report Posted January 19, 2012 The tool is listed on page 49 of their Spring, 2011 catalog. P/N LEA017, $16.50. I agree - mine were almost flat on that same dust plate. We will see if the tool works as it was designed. I have been fooled before. Ok, please post how it does. thanks. FWIW, that PN isn't in their online catalog! No wonder I couldn't find it! Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 Ok, please post how it does. thanks.FWIW, that PN isn't in their online catalog! No wonder I couldn't find it! The split rivet tool arrived and I am disappointed. It is a steel rod 3/8" in diameter and 3" long with 45 degree flats ground to a point on one end. It's basically the same as the clumsy cold chisel that I used, just a little more delicate. It will, however, spread the legs to 45 degree from vertical. then the legs would have to be hammered flat. I could have made the same tool using a 3/8" bolt in less than 5 min. Save your money. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 The split rivet tool arrived and I am disappointed. It is a steel rod 3/8" in diameter and 3" long with 45 degree flats ground to a point on one end. It's basically the same as the clumsy cold chisel that I used, just a little more delicate. It will, however, spread the legs to 45 degree from vertical. then the legs would have to be hammered flat. I could have made the same tool using a 3/8" bolt in less than 5 min. Save your money. can you post a pic? I'll make up my concept today if I have time and do the same. See which does better! My concept is super easy and anyone could whip one up in 30 minutes. Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 can you post a pic? I'll make up my concept today if I have time and do the same. See which does better! My concept is super easy and anyone could whip one up in 30 minutes. Will do. Pictures attached (I hope) Quote
ggdad1951 Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 Will do. Pictures attached (I hope) see my new thread for the "tool" http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=286271#post286271 Quote
Barry Maxwell Posted January 20, 2012 Report Posted January 20, 2012 see my new thread for the "tool" http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=286271#post286271 Very creative!! Good idea. Quote
Big50Dodge Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 In Reference to the pic that Reg posted - I'm attempting to put my fenders back on after some light body work. I'm Missing one 12-06-8 pad that I need to replace. I'm noticing also, mine are square on bracket 12-06-3, not round as in the photo. The same pad is (square) at the base of bracket 12-05-15. Since I need one, I was hoping to get all new. Sources..? Filler 12-02-6 (available most everywhere) is only for the HORIZONTAL area - what about the vertical piece..? That is not included for $9.00 I'm assuming. Seal 12-02-11, those that replaced it, did you use a single piece and 'bend' it around the corner of the fender/nose, or did you cut the piece from a larger flat rubber..? For my truck, it's something like 30 inches by 20 inches - probably gonna cost a few bucks for a lot of wasted material. Quote
Dave72dt Posted February 13, 2012 Report Posted February 13, 2012 For that 12-02-11 piece, strip caulking or window ribbon sealer has been used in the past Quote
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