Stovebolt Mopar "Mini" HEI Questions

[RedBay]

ok, the coil is a Standard plus UC 15 and it looks like it does not have a built in resistor , but  I do have a Volt A Drop on the firewall, looks like porcelain, I guess it has something to do with the 12v conversion.

[Branded]

RedBay, I don't understand your question. The HEI kit from Langdon is designed to use 12 volts. No resistor is needed. Did he not send any instructions on how to install his kit?

Edited February 7, 2016 by Branded

[RedBay]

yes he sent instructions but no wire diagram so I was not sure how  to connect the two wires from distributor but that part is now cleared , he also wrote "delete any resistor" so now I have to figure out if and where I have any resistor in my car.

[Branded]

Ok, now I get it.

[mopar_earl]

Once you run it, please post back with how the car ran please and your opinion. I'm pondering this mod if I ever convert to 12v.

Earl

[dale]

I have a Pertronics on a different 12 volt car and am going back to points and condenser. Having trouble where the car wont get spark when the motors hot.. Might not be the Pertronics fault but I dont want the uncertainty. A P-15 runs great with the mechanical points etc.

Edited February 8, 2016 by dale

[RedBay]

HEI distributor installed and engine startup without any problem did not have time to test drive yet , timing advance set to 10 Langdon suggest  10 - 18 deg.     a lot more than original. 

 

Edit : one hour test drive today , everything went well.

short video.

http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/cdcadab/media/My%201948%20Plymouth/VIDEO0198_zpsg1dypxsj.mp4.html

Edited February 11, 2016 by RedBay

[Jeff Balazs]

I have a Pertronics on a different 12 volt car and am going back to points and condenser. Having trouble where the car wont get spark when the motors hot.. Might not be the Pertronics fault but I dont want the uncertainty. A P-15 runs great with the mechanical points etc.

Are you certain it is not getting a spark? I have this issue when it is very warm like right now. It is not a lack of spark....... it is heat soak from the dumb manifold design and modern fuel. Try pulling out the throttle when starting hot.....works a treat. Don't blame the Pertronics trigger it is probably just fine. Mine is.

 

Jeff

[james curl]

Redbay

I would use caution on the 10 to 18 degree static advance.  You need to mount a vacuum Gage to the line for the vacuum advance, go drive it 60 mph and see how much vacuum it is still pulling.  Then check the vacuum advance chart for degrees advance at that reading, it might surprise you.  Next check the centrifugal advance chart for degrees advance at 3000 rpm which should be close to 60 mph.  Add the vacuum advance to the centrifugal plus the 10 to 18 initial advance to see how far before TDC you are firing the plugs.  When I rebuilt mine in 2007 I set static at 10 degrees advance then took a 4800 mile trip.  When I got home the engine sounded like I had some lifters clicking, turns out I had extruded the piston pin bushing.  When I pulled the head I had broken the top ring on 5 and 6 cylinders.  I had to have all of the piston pin bushings replaced and honed to fit as well as rings.

[Sharps40]

Yep.  I  did the same to a 250 chevy six.  Ran 18 initial with the soft can advance of 10 and 8000 miles later, catastrophic failure, cracked two pistons.  Couldn't hear it pinging since it was an old truck and rattled like heck.

 

Install, use factory initial advance setting, that could be, as I recall, 0 to 4 degrees depending on the engine. 

 

Drive.

 

Tweak the initial timing.  Somewhere in the 0 to 10 BTDC is going to make the engine super happy and not ping it into self destruction.

 

Your vacuum can will be marked with the advance.  Its likely 10 degrees, a soft can.