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Gas Tank Rust


Guest Dodge Joe

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Guest Dodge Joe
Posted

I've got rust in my gas tank. So what should do? Take it off and send it off and to who? Put a another filter in line. Take it to a rad/shop to clean it out?

I've tryed to buy another one but they not out there. The truck set for about 6 years, do I just need to keep running it, and will it just go away or what?

Joe

Posted

One of the old tricks of removing tank interior rust is putting about a quart 1/2' gravel in the tank and shake the day lights out of it. Then dump out the gravel and scale. Flush with water and vacuum out the remaing water and any left over residue through the sender hole. This will clean off most scale. Some people will use sealer in the tank but I have had trouble with the sealer coming loose and clogging the fuel system thus causing worse problems than rust. Of coarse use fuel filters and keep a couple extras handy no matter what you do to the tank.

Guest 50Plymouth
Posted

If its varnished up and the car is pretty nice I'd do it right. I asked a restoration shop who they recommended and they gave me the name of a industrial radiator shop that did a proper job for $135 (boiled and prof. lined with constant air supply hooked up. I could've bought a non varnished but rusted tank for the same price. No worries now.

Not all shops do an equal job. I think people over generalize about linings and risks. Even the term 'boiling out' can mean different things these days. Removing only flaking 'loose' rust is a temporary solution as it will continue rusting. But may be acceptable depending on cars condition and your expectations?

I'd choose a place that does a lot of them. Some shops will think about and agree and tell you they need to 'dig up something' that would scar me off.. JMHO

Ryan

Posted

I still think the best repair on a leaky gas tank is to replace it, especially if you plan on keeping the car or truck a long time.

If you want a direct fit, Rockwood posted a place called Tanks Inc. in Minnesota. The steel tanks are supposed to be a direct fit and they are only about $215. Wish I had known about them when I replaced my tank. At the time all I could find was a poly tank from Ply Do and it was also $215, plus shipping.

Many of you always say you should patch the body of the car with steel patches, not Bondo. Well.........which is more important? The body of the car or the gas tank? If you will only use steel on the body, why do you put the sealers on the more important gas tank?:rolleyes: Think about that.

Posted

When I looked inside my tank, I thought it was covered in rust. Cleaned it up anyway and found out that it was just varnish and the metal that was underneath looked brand spanking new. I used the rock method with laundry detergent and hot water. Others have used a length of chain since it's easier to make sure you get all of a single length of chain out than 300 pieces of gravel.

Tim, how the heck have you been doing fiberglass work if you aren't using an open flame?

Posted
Tim, how the heck have you been doing fiberglass work if you aren't using an open flame?

Evidently wrong...lol....I'm a welder when it come to body panel and rust...but on tanks that need repair..I try to stick with Big Bertha the soldering iron.

Guest Dave Claussen
Posted
What happened to the thread about using the cement mixer? Was that on the old forum?

Don, it's in the new forum. Check out the thread from Harvey Shuling about using the mixer. Just do the forum search for "cement mixer" and it should pop up. Dave

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