morson82 Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 Okay, I have been trying for a day or so to try and get the screws that hold the cooper crap to the inside of my starter loose. I need to strip it so that I can clean it properly. I have broken several large screw driver tips, used penetrating oil, wacked it with a hammer, then got a bigger hammer and wacked it some more...., oh yeah, went out and bought an impact driver too, but still, those dam screws will not turn! Is there a trick to it or what..... Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 Trick is send it to a motor shop that deals with starters daily. If your starter is working why do you want to remove the field coils? Quote
morson82 Posted March 17, 2007 Author Report Posted March 17, 2007 I know its a lot of work, but I am restoring this car and want to try and do most of it myself, and, if its possible, the right way the first time. I am probably going to get the starter body powder coated before I put it back together. This is my first resto and I want to learn as much as possible....can't beat O.J.T. (on the job training), besides, I'm always up for a challange. Glenn Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 Not sure if I understand what restoring a pre war starter with powder coating is all about. Restoring is returning something to its original condition. Powder coating technology was not yet available when your starter was first built. And the starters used in cars built today are not powder coated. If you powder coat your starter case most likely the field coils will not fit back into the shell. You might want to leave well enough alone. Quote
Normspeed Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 You know, I've never been able to get those field screws out either. Must have been some Walter P. Chrysler mojo at work. I think the powder coating might add thickness that might mess with clearances like Don mentioned, maybe mess with grounding continuity too. I'd either farm out the disassembly work, or go talk to a rebuild shop for info, or just clean up whatcha got and repaint the outside. If you want to try to DIY, try a bigger screwdriver that fits the screw, put the housing firmly in a vise, and apply some heat from a bernz-o-matic. Might work, might cook your insulation. Quote
grey beard Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 There are two ways to remove starter/generator field coil pole shoes. The first involves the use of a special jig that electric motor shops have - sorta' like a pipe vise that you screw the starter body down into. Then a large screw driver bit is threaded down into the screw head and removed with a wrench while the bit is held in place by the jig frame. I have been successful in removing these with a large number three Phillips bit on a half-inch impact driver that turns as it is struck with a large hammer. These tools are still availabe at most good parts stores - called impact drivers. Unfortunately, most you will find today are 3/8-inch drive, as opposed to the heavy duty 1/2- inch, which will do the job if your hammer is heavy enough. LOL I agree with Don - powder coating of engine accessories is way over-restoring. IMHO, powder coating has advantages primarily for wheel rims and parts exposed to the elements, where normal paint will not have a great life expectancy. Just because it's good stuff for wheel rims does not neccessarily follow that it should be used everywhere else. Highly over-rated, IMHO. Also, if you DO remove your starter/generator pole shoes, a special piece of tar-like paper is supposed to be sandwiched between the shoe and the case to inhibit rust there. Let us know how this works out. Quote
martybose Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 I agree with Don - powder coating of engine accessories is way over-restoring. IMHO, powder coating has advantages primarily for wheel rims and parts exposed to the elements, where normal paint will not have a great life expectancy. Just because it's good stuff for wheel rims does not neccessarily follow that it should be used everywhere else. Highly over-rated, IMHO. If I was "restoring" a car, I'd agree that powdercoating is over the top. But living a few hundred yards from a salt water bay, I've found that things like the throttle linkage and throttle pivot plate tend to start rusting slightly over time. So the last time I had the head off, I had the entire throttle linkage system powdercoated silver. It cost me a minimum lot charge of $50, looks like an original paint job, and won't ever rust again. So it isn't "original", but it is what I wanted for my driver! Marty Quote
bob westphal Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 Morson, Take the starter housing to a local rebuilder and have them remove the shoes for you. If it were me, I would have the shop do all the rebuilding. They are pro's and know all the lttle tricks that a neophite wouldn't learn for years of trying. You can tell them that you want to powder coat the housing and get their advise. If you absolutely have the need to powder coat it, only coat the exterior and not any part that is used for grounding. Quote
RobertKB Posted March 17, 2007 Report Posted March 17, 2007 I agree about the powder coating. I fully restored my '38 Chrylser and any under hood parts were thoroughly cleaned, wire brushed or sanded and then painted with a spray bomb or by hand depending on access to certain areas. In Canada, we have a paint called Tremclad that works extremely well for painting these kinds of parts. Everything under the hood except the engine and firewall was painted using Tremclad. I'm sure you have a similar product in the USA. Quote
morson82 Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Posted March 18, 2007 I probably will be taking the starter to a local shop to get the field coil screws out and have them look it over. As for powder coating the starter, I do know enough not to have in inside of the housing treated, I'll give myself that much....haha. This is not going to be a resto to the point of exact colors, paints, bolts, ect....but as close as I want to get. I like the powder coating due to its resistence to engine fluids, long life and easement of cleaning. This car will be a driver and it will be driven often, so cleaning the engine area and under side will be much easier with the powder coating. I will take pics and let everyone know how the works out as I progress into my rebuild. But please, keep the comments coming, as I stated before, I am new to this and need all the input I can get from all the "seniors" out there! Glenn...: PS: hmmmmmmmm, maybe I'll try having the water distribution tube powder coated so that it wont rust out......... just a thought.... Quote
bob westphal Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 Do you plan on doing the coating yourself? There are kits available to do this. It is easy enough that any neophite that, can read, can make it look like professional work with just a small amount of practice. Habor Freight has a kit that sells for about $100 and you can cure your small parts in the wife's oven. I use an old electric range I got from the local appliance store for free. JC Whitney now has powder. Quote
Don Coatney Posted March 18, 2007 Report Posted March 18, 2007 PS: hmmmmmmmm, maybe I'll try having the water distribution tube powder coated so that it wont rust out......... just a thought.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I once had a couple of water distribution tubes powder coated for the reason you mentioned. However I did this after I built my engine so I did not use them. I sold them both and have not heard how they worked. Quote
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