49Bseries Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 Well I have started to rebuild the front end because the brakes were leaking like a sieve and I got carried away as usual and discovered several other things to fix. I removed the master cylinder, both front brakes and wheel cylinder, and while I had the wheels off, I noticed that the tie rod seemed bent:mad:. Please look at the photo and tell me what you think. l removed the tie rod and tie rod ends. I also removed the fuel tank, Look at the photos and you will see that the float was rusted out. The tank was leaking and dented badly. It was full of rotten gas and felt like it had a ten pound chunk of something rolling around in it...I found another tank in good shape except for a few pin holes (there is a place nearby that will braze it up for me). I guess I need to get a new float. The information on this forum has been invaluable. Thanks for reminding me that the driver's side lug nuts tighten counter clockwise. I am really spoiled with my air compressor and driver. I spent a bunch of money at Roberts. I can see that this is going to cost a lot more than I figured . Quote
Bob_Koch Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 It's those suprises that bring challenges. I tend to like a good challenge. I think your truck is in capable hands. Quote
lugnut123 Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 The pin holes in the tank means it's probly thin and will be hard to braze. Go to napa and get a epoxy patch kit. It is a simple epoxy and fiberglass cloth patch works great should be cheaper than a welder. good luck Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 straight. Any good alignment shop or a guy with a good vise and some muscle should have no problem. Hank Quote
49Bseries Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Posted October 14, 2010 It is funny that you mention vise - I have a very substantial vise that broke last night on that tie rod! So, I resorted to the sledge hammer method and have gotten it fairly straight so far. Now I need some ends (Fleabay). The tie rod almost appears too long - anyone know the length off hand? I considered purchasing a new one, but at $160 or more...I mean it is just a long hollow rod, so I will work with straightening the old one and getting the new ends on. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 most race car builders can make this drag link so fast and easy..I believe the only real problem is finding a left hand tap for the other end of the rod...but if any are in the area..these local racers ought to be the ticket..you are in a good area to find these guys.. Quote
HanksB3B Posted October 14, 2010 Report Posted October 14, 2010 It is funny that you mention vise - I have a very substantial vise that broke last night on that tie rod! So, I resorted to the sledge hammer method and have gotten it fairly straight so far. Now I need some ends (Fleabay). The tie rod almost appears too long - anyone know the length off hand? I considered purchasing a new one, but at $160 or more...I mean it is just a long hollow rod, so I will work with straightening the old one and getting the new ends on. which is synomous with "Made in China" from depleted uraniun (just kidding). Is it "hollow"? Somehow I thought it was solid stock. Sorry about your vise, Hank Quote
49Bseries Posted October 14, 2010 Author Report Posted October 14, 2010 which is synomous with "Made in China" from depleted uraniun (just kidding).Is it "hollow"? Somehow I thought it was solid stock. Sorry about your vise, Hank The vise I broke was made by Dunlap and marked "Made in U.S.A." The tie rod is actually hollow and I have now gotten it pretty straight - you can see through the center. My problem with the vise was inexperience. I could not get the tie rod ends off until it dawned on me to use a cheap, made in china pipe wrench with a homemade breaker bar on it and that did the trick. Once the ends were off it was a lot easier to bend the hollow tube or pipe into a fairly straight piece. I should have used a pipe wrench from the start. Now I know. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 15, 2010 Report Posted October 15, 2010 The vise I broke was made by Dunlap and marked "Made in U.S.A." The tie rod is actually hollow and I have now gotten it pretty straight - you can see through the center. My problem with the vise was inexperience. I could not get the tie rod ends off until it dawned on me to use a cheap, made in china pipe wrench with a homemade breaker bar on it and that did the trick. Once the ends were off it was a lot easier to bend the hollow tube or pipe into a fairly straight piece. I should have used a pipe wrench from the start. Now I know. took mine off with a good OLD AMERICAN vise and a BFW with the closed end around the pin and spun. The ends spun right off that way! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.