woodie49 Posted June 7, 2010 Report Posted June 7, 2010 I took my Woodie to a car show Saturday, and before doing so, I topped off the radiator with Coolant. It was about an inch down and I hadn't added fluid for many months. I was surprised to note later that there was a fair amount of discoloration at the radiator where the top meets the coils. You could see several areas where the coolant is clearly seeping, though no actual leaks and no water on the floor of the garage. So, I'll pull the radiator in the next week or so. I note several places sell new aluminum "three row" radiators. I am trying to figure out if I am better off repairing my radiator (this is the first I have noticed of leaking in two years) or buying one of these aluminum ones. I assume that my radiator should be rebuilt. I don't want troubles a little further down the line and I want the car to run as cool as possible. I So. Cal. I am sure this car hasn't been exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees in years. Anyone have feedback on having a radiator rebuilt and what it should cost to do so? Can anyone recommend anyplace, particularly on So Cal, to do the work? Quote
John-T-53 Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 I've had a couple shops in both your areas work on my truck's original radiator where the exact location as yours sprung a leak... Advantage Radiator in Mission Viejo, off El Toro behind Ganahl Lumber is a single man shop run by an older guy who used to have a huge shop back in the day. He's familiar with all the old stuff. He even stopped by my house when I lived in San Juan, on his way back from surfing to look at my radiator in the truck. Another shop in Atascadero up on the central coast did me good a few years back: Atascadero Radiator. Hope this helps....good luck. Quote
dezeldoc Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 I just picked up one of the aluminum radiators for my 50 and it is pretty good with the exception of the overflow tube. the nice thing about using one of the modern radiators is you can now run a pressurized closed system and bring the temps down a bit. the fit is really good on it also, quality looks to be pretty good, but time will tell. the leak you speak of is called a header leak and depending on how bad the rest of the core is will determine weather it can be repaired. Quote
woodie49 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Posted June 8, 2010 I've had a couple shops in both your areas work on my truck's original radiator where the exact location as yours sprung a leak... Advantage Radiator in Mission Viejo, off El Toro behind Ganahl Lumber is a single man shop run by an older guy who used to have a huge shop back in the day. He's familiar with all the old stuff. He even stopped by my house when I lived in San Juan, on his way back from surfing to look at my radiator in the truck. Another shop in Atascadero up on the central coast did me good a few years back: Atascadero Radiator. Hope this helps....good luck. John-T, This is great and right in my neck of the woods. I'll contact Advantage first. I also go to the Central Coast atleast once a month, so Atascdero Radiator is a good back-up. Thanks much. Quote
woodie49 Posted June 8, 2010 Author Report Posted June 8, 2010 I just picked up one of the aluminum radiators for my 50 and it is pretty good with the exception of the overflow tube. the nice thing about using one of the modern radiators is you can now run a pressurized closed system and bring the temps down a bit. the fit is really good on it also, quality looks to be pretty good, but time will tell. the leak you speak of is called a header leak and depending on how bad the rest of the core is will determine weather it can be repaired. If mine is too far gone, I will probably go this direction. The one issue I have with the aluminum radiators is that the ones I have seen don't look like original and I would prefer the look. Did you find one that looks somewhat like the original radiator? Quote
dezeldoc Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 No not original looking at all, i don't think you would find an aluminum one that looks like the original due to the fact that the tanks are hand formed and have welded seams. Quote
1just4don Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 stop leak can do wonders,,,I would try that first. You can always replace it. If you want the low buck version you can add 2 Tbls of black pepper,,,it works and cures small seeps. Save your money and buy ice,,its gonna get hot outside!!! Quote
John-T-53 Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 If mine is too far gone, I will probably go this direction. The one issue I have with the aluminum radiators is that the ones I have seen don't look like original and I would prefer the look. Did you find one that looks somewhat like the original radiator? The guy at Advantage Radiator told me there's only one place in the country that's reproducing honeycomb cores today, and for a new one it's very expensive ($500+). I haven't searched for this myself, but when my rad gets to the point of no more fixing, I might try a junk yard radiator as a replacement first. He recommended "Bar's leaks" or equivalent for small seeps, but the key is to add it very slowly and when the system is hot. If you dump it all in at once it won't work. Quote
thrashingcows Posted June 8, 2010 Report Posted June 8, 2010 My daily driver years ago had a bad rad, small weeping. It was that way when I got it and I would run the Bars-leak about every 6 months. I drove that car everyday for almost 5 years, over heated it twice, and the rad never sprung a leak, or got too much worse. I'd definitely give the bars-leak a try, or equivalent. It's just aluminum powder and will get lodged up in the holes and kind of fuse itself in place. Not a permanent solution but you could get several more years out of that rad? Quote
P-12 Tommy Posted June 9, 2010 Report Posted June 9, 2010 Alumaseal is aluminum powder and Bar's Leak has the pellets in the brown goo. Tom Quote
thrashingcows Posted June 9, 2010 Report Posted June 9, 2010 Alumaseal is aluminum powder and Bar's Leak has the pellets in the brown goo.Tom Riiiiigght...Alumaseal, my mistake. So it was Alumaseal I used then. Quote
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