Adjusted my valves with the engine running

[Cpt.Fred]

yes, that's what i meant. feels like the gauge would get chewed between the tappet and the valve shaft:)

sound is quite alright, i guess. maybe i'll try shooting a video and load it up on youtube.

you can still hear a fine ticking and sort of knitting sound, but the gaps are alright.

everything else drowns in the exhaust noise.

[Joe Flanagan]

Sounds like exactly what I did. With all that mechanical stuff moving around you're bound to have some clacking and tapping somewhere. I think you're good but I defer to the guys who have a lot more experience than I do.

[Cpt.Fred]

i managed to load up this video of the motor at idle after the adjustment:

[Joe Flanagan]

Sounds good, Fred. As they say, a little clacking isn't a bad thing. I like the patina on your car. Looks like you have a nice, well-lit place to work.

By the way, did you do a vacuum test on your distributor advance?

[Cpt.Fred]

glad you like it, joe!

normally the place is completely crammed because there's also a friend

of mine in there with a '67 Fury III, plus my scooter and some prewar bicycles,

but the other car was at a shop for new weather striping so i took advance of that...

do you mean if i attached a vac gauge on the manifold while timing the engine?

or if i tested the vac advance that way?

i used a strobe light 12V and an extra 12V batery, like merle said in the other thread, and tested the vac advance by connecting and disconnecting the vac line during the strobe test.

[Joe Flanagan]

I was referring to the hand pump vacuum tester. You squeeze the trigger a few times and it draws a vacuum on whatever you're testing. There's a gauge on top of the gun. My vacuum advance won't hold pressure. Goes slowly straight down to zero.

[Cpt.Fred]

good idea, i could use the same device me and my friend used

to test the step up jet...

sometimes i need someone to stick my nose into the obvious.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Only ticky noise I hear is probably the heat riser shaft and bushing possibly leaking some exhaust gasses? Sounds like the valves are ok to me -no tailpipe idle miss! Good job.

[P-12 Tommy]

Good video, Fred. Sounds good with the glasspack.

Tom

[Jim Saraceno]

What's with the heat riser? Is it a broken spring or is it just adjusted to stay open or closed all the time?

[Cpt.Fred]

it's just plain broken, jim.

the shaft seems to turn freely, but i don't know what to do with it.

rebuilt is too expensive, and i don't think i'll be driving that much in the winter,

so i was thinking about fixing it in closed position.

what do you recommend?

[Jim Saraceno]

I think you can just buy a new spring. However, if you're not going to bother with that I think I'd go with setting it so it is always closed.

I know before I had mine set up I could count on the engine going trough a couple of coughs and sputters before the engine got completely warmed up.

[Powerhouse]

I've heard always open is better...it may get tooooo hot always closed and cause problems like...vapor lock...hot gas...etc.

[DonaldSmith]

I used the bimetallic spring from a yard thermometer for my heat riser. It works fine.

[Cpt.Fred]

the spring is there, looks intakt. so is the counter weight. the housing is missing,

and i have to take a closer look to how the mechansim is supposed to work.

i admit that i haven't had enough time yet because of all the other problems piling up a little.

[Jim Saraceno]

I've heard always open is better...it may get tooooo hot always closed and cause problems like...vapor lock...hot gas...etc.

When I say closed, I mean the valve is closed to the intake manifold letting all the hot gas bypass the carb. Fred's valve looks like it would be in the closed position right now.

Here's some info on the heat control.

On that unit, you would turn the spring 1/3 turn CCW and put the loose end on the valve stop stud. I couldn't tell it that stud was there because of the shadow. So, if the shaft is loose, the stud is there, and the spring is intact, all you would have to do is to bring the loose end of the spring up to the stud so the counter wieght is resting on the stud and you'd be done.

[Jim Saraceno]

This may be easier to read...

[Joe Flanagan]

Fred,

Also take a look at this:

http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=692

[Cpt.Fred]

thanks, jim, that's a good read!

as for the advice in the tech section,

i read it once, but forgot already because of other more important things distracted me...

i'll reapeat my lesson and then decide what to do, but rebuilding seems rather

unnecessary to me because of the climate and terms of use.