more problems

[flattiefreak]

My 230 has nice smooth idle, but now it runs rough when i rev up the engine. I have not taken the car for a test drive yet. What could be causing this? I am really getting frustrated because there are no timing marks so i cant time the engine. Im sending out an S.O.S.

[flattiefreak]

I should also mention that the plugs are less than a week old and set carb with vacuum gauge

[flattiefreak]

I moved the dist around a little bit and think i have found that sweet spot. I will take her for a test drive in a couple of hours and report back

[Plymouthy Adams]

did I read correct that you have no timing marks on the lower pulley? if that is true then there will be no real way to set the static timing...UNLESS you were to use a degree wheel and a good dial indicator to rear the position of the pistor say .050 down on etiehr side of TDC and establic the correct TDC and transcribe to your lower pulley.

[randroid]

Folks,

So far as no timing marks are concerned, back in the 60's I had a friend who timed engines and had never owned a timing light in his like. His method was to turn the dist in one direction until the engine started 'crapping', then turned it the other direction until he got the same results, and then split the difference. He was always dead-on when I checked his work with a timing light, and he did this to his AA fuel dragster and had a room full of trophies as a testimonial to his ability. Granted he'd been doing it for years and always checked and rechecked his work, nor did he ever recommend others doing it his way, but I've done it a few times since when I didn't have a timing light and it's surprising how close you can get doing it that way. It may be worth a try in a pinch.

-Randy

[Plymouthy Adams]

and Randy..based on the fact he stated there are no timing indicators..how pray tell will you verify this with a timing light...sorry but there has to be an established reference for you to draw too..now I am not stating that setting timing could be accomplished with this method as for the most fact I do so myself with non computer controlled engines..but again, you MUST have an established reference for the use of the light..

Edited May 16, 2010 by Tim Adams

[randroid]

Tim,

I was going on the assumption that the engine could be started, and if it can this method could work because it doesn't rely on timing marks, which was the point I was trying to make. I'm also a big fan of static timing, which is a good thing because I own a VW Bug. When push comes to shove I'll use my timing light on everything but the Bug, and I've used it on the Bug in fits of deep curiosity.

-Randy

[flattiefreak]

Just road tested it and the car has plenty of power for me. The car runs nice now, but is aweful loud. I dont know if these engines were supposed to be loud when in low gears, but once in high gear, it quiets down a good bit. I wasnt around then so im not sure. Could just need a new exhaust system. The car doesnt have the headliner, carpet, windlace, or rear seat in ,so that is also a factor on the level of noise.

[randroid]

flattiefreak,

Since you're not encumbered with nonsense such as a headliner or a rear seat you may want to consider doing some insulation and sound-deadening. No, your car wasn't meant to be loud (my '48 P-15 could hardly be heard standing next to it until the muffler fell off and became a preztle, and yes, I have a new muffler sitting in the box waiting for me to get to it) so my guess there is a problem in the exhaust system. There were a few informative and interesting threads a year or so ago about insulation and sound-deadening and you might want to use Search and take a look at them.

-Randy

[flattiefreak]

I will certainly take a look at the sound deadening threads. I guess I will start saving up for an exhaust system. Also, I was looking at a few old threads about valve adjustments and remembered that the so called expert mechanic that helped me rebuild my engine failed to readjust the tappets after the engine was warm. He only helped me adjust them prior to the engine being put in the car. I will bite the bullet and adjust them next weekend. I have wrenches and feeler gauge, so I guess thats all I need. I really dont know about me adjusting them while the engine is running because I dont have the removable inner fender that i have seen mentioned.

[randroid]

flattiefreak,

I've heard a lot of very good mechanics say to adjust the valves while the engine is running but I have never liked that method because I am never happy with the 'feel' I get with the gauge. Run the engine for twenty minutes to half an hour to make sure it gets hot all the way through, then shut it off and go through the valve procedure. You might also want to check the torque on the head while it's warm.

Anybody want to chime in on this?

-Randy

[Dodgeb4ya]

flattiefreak,

I've heard a lot of very good mechanics say to adjust the valves while the engine is running but I have never liked that method because I am never happy with the 'feel' I get with the gauge. Run the engine for twenty minutes to half an hour to make sure it gets hot all the way through, then shut it off and go through the valve procedure. You might also want to check the torque on the head while it's warm.

Anybody want to chime in on this?

-Randy

I agree 100% ! Never had a problem doin them this way. It's easy too.

[flattiefreak]

My manual says to adjust both intake and exhaust to .010 for the hot setting. What do you guys reccomend?

[randroid]

flattiefreak,

The books are written with certain specs for a damn good reason; the people who wrote the factory manuals work with the engineers who designed the engines and the workers in the factory who built them. Believe them because you won't find anybody who knows these engines better or wants them to last longer.

If you're using a Haynes manual, that's a different story.

-Randy

[flattiefreak]

Okay thanks Im using the 1958 plymouth service manual.