Reg Evans Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 I'm getting ready to fill all the new lines and brake cylinders with fluid in my 40 Plym. and am going to use my pressure bleader. I can't seem to find the instructions so I'm wondering how much to pump the thing up. It does have a pressure gauge on it. Quote
Dodgefran Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 I use one that I put together from examples from this forum. It doesn't have a guage either. I just pumped it until I felt pressure on the handle and let it go. When I opened the cylinder screw, I could tell that it was enough. It will shoot down the tube into the collector bottle real fast then lesson as the pressure runs down. If it got low, I would shut the break cylinder off and re-pump it. I like this method. Actually, it took me longer to set it up and break it down than to bleed the brakes. Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 10 lbs should do nicely. I only got mine to 6 lbs and it worked alright. Quote
Guest P15-D24 Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 I agree under 10 should work fine. Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 26, 2007 Author Report Posted February 26, 2007 OK...Thanks...10 lbs it is. I should have also asked this. Do I block the pedal part way down or all the way down. Last time I used my bleeder I think I used about 5 lbs of pressure and had the pedal about 1/2 way to the floor. It seemed like the fluid flowed very slowly. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 Leave the pedal all the way up. You want the reservoir port to be open through the master cylinder to the output port. I also agree on the 10 psi pressure. If you get much more than 15 the fluid gets a bit turbulant running through the lines and gets harder to get the air out. Merle Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 26, 2007 Author Report Posted February 26, 2007 Thanks for the tips guys. I just walked in from a frustrating afternoon out in the garage. STILL NO BRAKES !!!! I hooked up the pressure bleeder and pumped it to 10 lbs. I left the brake pedal in it's normal position(un depressed) and went to the rt.rear wheel and blead the line until no air came out thru the clear plastic tube I used to direct the fluid into a jar. Went to the rt. rear,,,,,rt.front ,,,,,,and left front and did the same. I fulled up about a quart mayonnaise jar with the fluid that came thru. Jumped in and to my disappointment....nothing....no pedal....no matter how many times I pump the pedal. The master cylinder reservoir was full when I removed the bleeder. Everything has been replaced in the system except for the master cylinder. It looked like it had been replaced in the recent past so I left it in place. The brakes were working before I started this job. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted February 26, 2007 Report Posted February 26, 2007 You might still have air trapped somewhere. I had the same problem. I installed new everything, master cylinder, lines, wheel cylinders, and shoes. Bled the system with a power bleeder until no air bubbles were seen. Disconnected the bleeder and stepped on the pedal... nothing. After it sat for a few minutes I reconnected the bleeder and tried it again. Got more air out. Waited a while and did it again, got more air out. Seems that even with a pressure bleeder air gets trapped and needs to work it's way to the top to be bled again. Give it another try and see what happens, Merle Quote
blueskies Posted February 27, 2007 Report Posted February 27, 2007 Reg- I've bled mine 4 times... The first time I got brakes, but there was still definitely air in the system. It took another three times to get it all out. Also, do you have the shoes turned all the way in away from the drums? This helped tremedously with mine. Pete Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Posted February 27, 2007 Merle and Pete, I adjusted the shoes all the way out with my Ammco 1750 before I put the drums back on. Really Pete? Back the shoes off from the drums so the shoes would have to travel farther before I get a pedal. Hey...what do I know. I'll give it a try. Merle..your gauges went out today. Thanks Quote
blueskies Posted February 27, 2007 Report Posted February 27, 2007 Pete,I adjusted the shoes all the way out with my Ammco 1750 before I put the drums back on. Really Pete? Back the shoes off from the drums so the shoes would have to travel farther before I get a pedal. Hey...what do I know. I'll give it a try. Reg- It's my understanding (keep in mind I'm just a hack... ) that when you turn the minor adjustment all the way so that the shoes are away from the drum, it compresses the cylinder to it's smallest volume, helping eliminate air in the bleeding process. Once you have all the air out, you turn the minor adjustment back out to where you had it with the ammco tool. Moving the minor adjustment once you have everything dialed in with the ammco tool will not necessetate using the tool again because the major adjustment has not been altered. It seemed to make a noticable difference for me, worth a try. Pete Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Posted February 27, 2007 Thanks Pete ! I'll definitely give that a try later this morning. Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 27, 2007 Author Report Posted February 27, 2007 OK.....I give....UNCLE !!!! Still no "pedal" I've never had this happen before and I'm gettin too old for this $ H eye tee. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and get a new master cylinder. That's the only part I did not replace. Is Andy B the only supplier of master cylinders for a 40 Plymouth? I was not impressed with the wheel cylinders I got from him. Quote
blueskies Posted February 28, 2007 Report Posted February 28, 2007 I bought my master cylinder from Kanter. It was $150 , but that price included a core refund (can't remember how much...) so the total was quite a bit less than that. Pete Quote
Lou Earle Posted February 28, 2007 Report Posted February 28, 2007 check your service manual- your symptoms are indicative of a worn out rubber in-the master. Remember the Master can be rebuilt on the car - and NAPA HAS REBUILD kits for them. I would try a re build first you can do that for about 30 bucks Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 28, 2007 Author Report Posted February 28, 2007 Thanks for the ideas guys! I'll take the master apart and see if it's pitted and go from there. The power has been off since last night at 6 pm because of a 6" snow fall here in the sunny Gold Country of California. It just came back on. AH !!!! much better now. I was suffering from computer withdrawl. Quote
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