Carb

[jmooner3]

I've been working on getting my 50 1 ton to stop with limited results now I have trouble with the "GO"

Truck had been idling and then got rough - Carb gave up the ghost, gas pouring out side and bottom onto hot exhaust manifold - got my attention quick.

Not a carb guy but learning and willing to try. Excuse the lack of carb teminology...

Dissassembled carb cleaned out junk popped out two brass screws with spring valves cleaned noticed one the pin at rest was above the slot for the screw and the one under a 1/2 inch leather like plunger the spring loaded pin at rest was flush with the bottom of the slot for the screw? not sure if normal. The plunger looked pretty rough too. (what does this plunger do?)

Anyway the gasket between the carb halfs looked spent so I traced punched and cut out a new one reinstalled and put it back togehter with screws snug. after a short while carb took a pee again. Tightend the screws WAyyyy tighter than I'd like. and it appears to have stopped but there looks like seepage.

Could it be an over pressure problem? Perhaps float not shutting valve, there is a small slug with a pointed seal at the fuel inlet, seems the float would rise and shut this when full of fuel shutting off the feed from the constanly pumping pump. Float seemed to move freely and slug slid fine...

Do fuel pumps ever pump too much fuel? Could my pump be a super-pump overpowering the valve and over preshsurizing the carb?

Hopefully this is not jibberish to one of you and somebody can explain basics of what's going on inside the carb and more importantly what might be happening with mine.

If ya'll think I'm better off to seek proffesional help locally (for the carb I mean, my wife already thinks I spend too much time with the truck and need help) - input welcome.

[oldmopar]

The float or needle valve(thing with the rubber tip) could have hung up. best thing would be to rebuild the carb kit should be about $25-$35 not hard to rebuild comes with instructions. I forget the part number but I am sure someone here will have it.

[Young Ed]

I suggest you invest in an actual rebuild kit. You'll get a new slug(which is called a needle) and the seat that is seals against. Plus all new gaskets for the carb.

[jmooner3]

How do I tell which of the many carbs mine is and where is the best spot to get a kit?

[Young Ed]

On the fin between the spot where the air cleaner attaches and the top of the fuel bowl there should be a number. Unless you have fluid drive all the carters use the same kit until the shortie versions in the mid 50s.

[jmooner3]

Thanks Ed, I'll look for the digits when I get home.

Where to get a good carb kit at good price???

Seems I should look a little deeper into the fuel pump too, it works well but looks aweful, some seepage and dirt sticking to it. I read Merles entry on his roadside fix...I think I have the one from my 49, one of them will be my "under the seat spare".

[Don Coatney]

I suggest you invest in an actual rebuild kit. You'll get a new slug(which is called a needle) and the seat that is seals against. Plus all new gaskets for the carb.

Young Ed?

Are there rebuild kits out there that are not "actual":rolleyes:

[Young Ed]

Young Ed?

Are there rebuild kits out there that are not "actual":rolleyes:

Yes the original poster was trying to make his own. While im sure you could make some parts its probably much easier to just buy the kit.

[jmooner3]

Thanks guys - the "actual" part number on the carb is 382884, it's a stromberg and I found another post out here on the forum where it listed a napa part echlin pn 2-5106 for <$22. Seems a kit is in order for me!

Keep the education coming!

[jmooner3]

Ordered NAPA part "CRB 25106" $26.