body filler

[brian hood]

Has anyone used the lead free solders? Is the lead based stuff easier? Is the Eastwood kit worth it? What about the metal fillers. Is it easy or hard to use?

Brian

[dezeldoc]

What are you trying to accomplish? just normal body work it is better to use regular body filler. the lead free sticks suck, the lead sticks are what you want if you are going to use lead, the lead free melts at a higher temp and is harder to control. the all metal fillers are good but hard to work, clogs up paper fast and most times leaves lots of pin holes. anything eastwood sales is over priced but that is up to you.

[brian hood]

But bondo cracks so easily! Its hard to use such a small amount to fill in a gap or rust hole just to have it crack. What do you use?

[Plymouthy Adams]

there in lies your problem Brian..you should not span a crack or hole with bondo..the shrinkage is one problem, disimilar expansion rates of the metal and the compound is another and add on top of that the hydroscopic value of the bondo..your patch is already chemically and physically extended beyond its application..any seam should be welded...any crack needs welded and any patch needs full perimeter weld..even areas that have just a few pin holes will be subject to rusting behind the bondo and eventual loss of filler...you can prolong this if you can get a good seal behind the patch..but then again it is a patch and not a repair..

Edited March 30, 2010 by Tim Adams

[dezeldoc]

there in lies your problem Brian..you should not span a crack or hole with bondo..the shrinkage is one problem, disimilar expansion rates of the metal and the compound is another and add on top of that the hydroscopic value of the bondo..your patch is already chemically and physically extended beyond its application..any seam should be welded...any crack needs welded and any patch needs full perimeter weld..even areas that have just a few pin holes will be subject to rusting behind the bondo and eventual loss of filler...you can prolong this if you can get a good seal behind the patch..but then again it is a patch and not a repair..

There you have it in a nut shell!

[brian hood]

Ok, here is my problem. The nose piece of my truck has several small holes (I will try to get a picture to post later) in the front of the crown. It would be a very hard piece to make and get it to look correct. Since these holes are small (about the size and lenght of a pencil) should I consider using a lead filler or lead free filler to fill these holes? If I put POR 15 or something like that behind it and fill it with lead do you think that would fix it?

Brian

[they_call_me_tred]

the length of a pencil?!?...

[Plymouthy Adams]

Brian..what you see and how you explain it leaves my mind somewhat questioning the repair and what it may take..any way you could post a picture of this...

in some cases where you have a gash you can back the area with brass or copper (pre-tinned) and then fill with lead..

if indeed a gash..I would still think welding is the answer..you may be able to walk through a wrecking yard and find hood, lower fender corners etc etc already close to the shape and contour you need to expedite the patch..

IF welding..I would recomend oxy/acetylene as these welds can be done without making the metal or weld seam brittle thus easily grindable and mallable to the point you can shape and bend and work with a shrinking disc..it is most likely you will be using some filler..the idea is to keep it over solid metal and as thin as you possibly can..

IF possible, post a picture..

[Robert Horne]

Ok, here is my problem. The nose piece of my truck has several small holes (I will try to get a picture to post later) in the front of the crown. It would be a very hard piece to make and get it to look correct. Since these holes are small (about the size and lenght of a pencil) should I consider using a lead filler or lead free filler to fill these holes? If I put POR 15 or something like that behind it and fill it with lead do you think that would fix it?

Brian

A repair like this I use a strip of sheet metal behind the area to be repaired. I have a small mig welder that will weld the strip to the original unit, filling in the seam. After ginding excess away, I use a hammer and dollies to flatten as much as possible. I use a very thin layer of Duraglas Bondo, and they thin layers of regular Bondo. Many of my repairs are 15 and 20 years old, and still look good today...........

[they_call_me_tred]

...and in regard to what tim and robert said above, if it is only the size of a pencil (a hole, basically), just use a scrap piece of copper pipe or a copper plumbing fitting as the "backer" when welding up the holes. a quick and easy fix for small repairs.

[dezeldoc]

Bondo will fill 1/8" holes but, it will absorb moisture and eventually rust the base metal under the bondo. always better to weld them if possible. if you have never used lead you would be better off welding up the holes then finishing it in filler, their is a trick to lead and it takes a lot of practice to get it right.

[JerseyHarold]

If these are truly small 'pinhole' type holes, you might be able to use a heavy-duty electric soldering gun to fill them in, then grind down and paint.

[brian hood]

I cant seem to get a pict to post. However, they are about the length of a pencil and about 1/4 to 1/2 wide. They are in the middle of a curve. It's very hard to get to. If I put a copper paddle behind it the mig weld wont stick? I think its about a 16 g metal. What heat setting sholud I use on my mig? Is it hard to get lead to stick or flow on a vertical surface? I am torn but determined to do something.

Brian

[Robert Horne]

I cant seem to get a pict to post. However, they are about the length of a pencil and about 1/4 to 1/2 wide. They are in the middle of a curve. It's very hard to get to. If I put a copper paddle behind it the mig weld wont stick? I think its about a 16 g metal. What heat setting sholud I use on my mig? Is it hard to get lead to stick or flow on a vertical surface? I am torn but determined to do something.

Brian

A 3/4 inch strip of metal, same thickness or a little thicker placed on the back side of the hole. My 300 mig sets about half on the heat, and about half on the speed. A practice piece on a table is good to experiment with. Bang on the practice piece with a hammer,,see if the welds are good.