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Posted

We have sandblaster here too.In my GMC 1944 2 1/2 ton 6x6 I payed sandblaster to do in january 2005.http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/showphoto.php?photo=19596

See the album pics.Now I prefer to do without sandblaster,I love this job.They never do like us(here).It is quiet! :cool:

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Posted

I thought about using fender welt, but decided not to at the last moment. I guess it wouldn't have hurt to use some paper thin nylon washers between the bed and the fender if they didn't show or create a gap. Oh well..good luck and be careful.

Hank

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Posted

Fernando,

My truck was painted at Alvins Auto Body 1-562-424-4323 by Martin. Jamie did the polishing by machine. I'm not sure about the final sanding spoecifications, but these guys were real experts as you can see by the finish they were able to produce. The paint was a single stage PPG product I think it was acrylic enamel with a polyurethane hardener. I looked at my paint bill the last time I painted my truck in 1982 and all the supplies including bondo, primer and 2 gals of paint came to $239. But the last paint was $400/gal (can you believe it!) and I ordered 3/gals. It was just about the time of the petroleum crisis when gas was costing us $5/gal (bad timing!). The PPG paint is probably still way up there in price. A tremendous effort was put into my truck (See attached photos). It's all in the prep work and blocking with those new type of sanding blocks.

I highly suggest you give Cesar a call at tcpglobal where I wanted to get my paint from originally, but it didn't work out that way because I was subject to where Alvins had their accounts set up. I certainly cannot complain about the outcome and get lots of compliments on the paint job. It cost $4,300 and another $1,200 for the bed. tcpglobal has instructional videos (for purchase) that show you how to paint.

Photo 01: General shape of my 1982 paint in 2005

Photo 02: Etching Primer (applied directly on raw metal)

Photo 03: Bondo over etching primer

Photo 04: Primed Gray and Black Primer Blocking Coat. (the blocking coat is just a mist of a contrasting color to show the low and high spots during the blocking (sanding) process. It's a trick.

Photo 05: Cab Prep

http://www.tcpglobal.com/RestorationShop/

I would imagine that Brazil does not have the strict Air Quality Control restrictions now placed on the automotive paints you can use. I think for the most part California is limited to water base paints. Hopefully in Brazil you are still allowed to use lacquer base paints. Tcpglobal offers a great amount of information on their website and you can learn alot there. Give Cesar a call (se habla espanol). Their prices are very reasonable, but of course I don't know what is available to you locally. It's a matter of educating yourself. I wish I had had the time and equipment to do it myself this time around like you do. Take your time, don't skip any steps and you'll get good results.

Hank

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Posted

Hank,here in my city(Santiago-Rio Grande do Sul-Brazil) the RED primer(iron oxide) is only for body(cab & bed).The GREY primer is only used for wheels.It is one of the differences I knew.Some pics of my GMC CCKW 353 1944 I shotted today afternoon.Its paint was red primer and synthetic semi-brightness.

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Posted

Hank,some wheels are dirty,because it has many oil leakage.This place is my father in law(88 years old) farm far 20 km from the city.It is really a beautiful place.Pics of my Dodge B3-B(#nº 90099559) 1952 in front of my white and sea blue house.

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Posted

I like the contrasting silver grill pieces. I thought about doing that, but went with all green because of the paint cost. Mine is a 51 B3B. Your house looks really nice too. What kind of work do you do. I've never been to Brazil, but love what music I've heard here in the U.S. Do you live near the beach or inland? Today is Valentines day over here and better yet it's the Nascar Daytona 500, but I'm not a big fan of Juan Pablo Montoya. A bit too much of a typical Columbian macho man for me, but that's just my opinion. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

Have a Great Day!

Posted

Hank,other pics of GMC in the farmer days ago.I opened the meat hook tailgate.I think it is very good now.Thanks to you,that shown me.I have a pics of my Jeep Willys MB 1942 to send to you.This GMC canvas top was handmade by me following the original type.

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Posted

The rest of the JEEP WILLYS 4x4 1/4 ton 1942 pics.I have owned it since 1982.When I bought it was with Chevrolet OPALA(OPEL) 4 cylinders engine and Jeep CJ-5(1970) transmission and transfer case.I withdrew all them and put all original.Here in Brazil(São Paulo) they offer R$50.000,00(reais) for it($25,000),but is very difficult to find a rich man to sell.

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Posted

Any help about "what I have to do now with these holes in the tailgate?"I withdrew all the paint and mass and became surprised when the holes appeared.:confused:

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Posted

It looks like the tailgate has been newly painted (where the DODGE letters are). Are you going to repaint the whole tailgate? If so you may not want to weld the holes, but rather fill them. If thats the case, you could use "Kitty Hair" which is a mixture of fiberglass resin and fibers, then bondo and sand smooth, then prime and paint.

Hank

Posted

I prefer to weld any holes I don't need. Least amount of filler needed, the better. Filler material needs surface material for adhesion. Edges of holes don't provide good contact area. Weld, grind, skim coat with filler, sand, etc.

Posted

is your truck in your house? By the way those loops on the tailgate should be remove and the holes filled in with weld they are not original. Unless you really need them I'd remove them.

Hank

Posted

What is the purpose of having dual wheels up front. Never heard of it.

Anyone has a help(answer) for me?This question was made for me from a friend of another forum.

Hank,I did your question for the expert "CCKW.ORG" site.:)

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