Need a Source for Headliner and Firewall Pad Fasteners

[Bradley S.]

Hi;

Do any of you have a source for these fasteners? Also, does anyone have a rough idea how many are needed to secure the interior (headliner, back windows and kick panels) and the firewall pad? I am guessing at least 30 or 40.

Thanks in advance!

Brad Schmidt

[Dodgeb4ya]

Online or your local upholstry suppy dealer or upholsterer.

[desoto1939]

Contact Restoration Supply in Windber PA.

They have headliner kits for cloth in the old style naped cloth and also vinyal and also all major clips. Go on line and search for them.

I purchased my headliner for my 39 Desoto from them and it was precut and sewed and fit perfectly.

Here is there link: www.restorationspecialties.com/

Rich Hartung

[Jim Gaspard]

http://www.mrgusa.com/fasindex.htm

[HanksB3B]

more forgiving. I'm working on my interior roof today. I'll show you the picture but it's looks are deceiving. The green tape was used to serve as a horizontal index only, to locate the holes. A vertical measurement was taken at each of the 15 original holes, a scribe (compass or divider) was used to measure and chart each hole's vertical location. Next with the headliner in place, I pushed a small hole in Roberts $500 bucks worth of cardboard as we Californians like to call it (Gary I apologize, I know that's a little exagerated) In the next step, the headliner was removed and a hole punch used to make clean holes in the headliner (not while in the cab). Once again, I test-fitted the headliner and every hole matched perfectly with the holes from the factory. I stopped here because the sun was going down. Tomorrow I'm going to cut out to allow the dome light to be installed. I've already run the wire but I intend to attach a ground wire to the fixture as well. (you know how ground goes)

Well since I'm in your thread in answer to your question here goes:

I'm undecided as to whether to use the clips supplied with the interior kit. The reason is I think they are unforgiving in that I think they are too strong and if for any reason they have to be removed, I think they'll cause damage to the cardboard. I'm thinking of these nylon button head fasteners that have a ribbed spline. I also might consider using threaded nylon anchors press fit into the steel channel (the ones you put into the wall to hang stuff) that way I could use the stainless steel oval phillips head finish screws with captivated dimpled washers, like used by the factory on the door cardboard (except thet were not s.s). From Don Bunn's book it looks to be that way. I think it'll look correct to all but the purest of the pure and since I don't think I'll be entering a Concors de Ellegance with my truck, I like the idea of being able to remove the headliner i.e. if I want to add more insulation. Don't forget also that you have to fasten through two layers of cardboard above the rear windows (that will be another thought challenge to me).

P.S. You won't have to order anything, just a trip to a good hardware store.

I'll see how it goes,

Hank

Edited January 28, 2010 by HanksB3B

[HanksB3B]

I used Plastic Anchors 8-10 x 7/8". I found what worked best was to clip off the tip of the blue anchor, start a #10 screw (3rd item from left) into the anchor, place it into a vise grip, run the screw all the way till it seats and then give it a half twist so that it almost strips. Remove the #10 and then push the anchor into the steel channel and give it a tap so that it seats flush.

Next screw the #8 (what you see it the blue anchor) into the anchor and unscrew it making sure the anchor does NOT turn. After about 5 applications, I got the feel just right and it went smoothly. If you want black, the phillips head trim screw with the entrapped finish washer would give a real good look.

(The reason I didn't use them is that I got #10's and you need #8's. Once the anchor/screw assembly is installed I tried a pull-out test and there is at least ten pounds of force needed to remove the anchor/screw assembly, whice is more than enough to secure the cardboard to the cab.

P.S. I looked and Don Bunn's book to get a rough idea of the correct position. Next I held the cover plate up to the headliner and used masking tape to form a rectangle to act as a guide. I thought about removing the headliner (again..?) but decided I had the best chance just to cut it in place. I got so nervous when it came to cutting the hole for the Dome Light (possibility of ruining the panel) that I almost punked it! After I cut it I noticed I was shaking when I screwed the rest of the fastners in. That was a weird feeling.

I still will need to loosen the four screws to drop a seatbelt backing plate into the "B" pillar. I feel that use of the screws in lieu of the clip anchors is the way to go (unless you are building a museum piece..which I'm not). I know the cardboard will more than likely rip if you ever did need to remove it, so Bradley S. PM me if you want the package of clips I now don't need. They were painted black over brown with epoxy enamel because Robert's only stocks (or ran out of black..not sure), so they're yours if you want them.

Hank

Edited January 29, 2010 by HanksB3B

[Bradley S.]

Hank;

Thanks for the offer. I am going to use the cup washers, screws and plastic mollies like you did. It will look better.

Brad