Powerhouse Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 Anyone know what size the bleeder valve is on the front drivers wheel cylinder? Mine was so chewed up it's in need of replacing....and I don't have it with me. Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 The mopar number for the bleeder screw is 854039 and fits all wheel cylinders from 1939-42. I do know that there are different tapers on the screws. I might have a few from my 39 DeSoto since they use the same fitting. Try a NAPA store with this number to see if they have some in stock. Do you have an additional wheel cylinder in you stock pile of parts. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell phone Quote
TodFitch Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 The mopar number for the bleeder screw is 854039 and fits all wheel cylinders from 1939-42. I do know that there are different tapers on the screws. I might have a few from my 39 DeSoto since they use the same fitting.Try a NAPA store with this number to see if they have some in stock. Do you have an additional wheel cylinder in you stock pile of parts. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell phone Hmmm. My notes say that 854039 is for 1940-42 Plymouth passenger vehicles. While 691471 would be for 1939 passenger vehicles and 77671 would be for 1928-36 Plymouth passenger vehicles and up to 1941 on Plymouth commercial vehicles. And 1123005 would be for the P15 era. That said, I'm pretty sure that everything 1928-42 uses a 7/16 fine thread and the same taper on the seat so they should interchange. The 77671 has a 1/4-28 cap screw that threads into to as a "dust cap" and needs an 1/4-28 threaded adaptor to attach the bleed hose. You probably won't find those and if you do you won't want to get them as they are a hassle. Looks like NAPA Online has changed their web site and I am having difficulty trying to get interchange information from it. I think that the 7/16 fine thread style bleeder screws were used for a lot of years and should still be available at the better local auto supply stores. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Posted January 12, 2010 wow you guys are FAST! I'll check with napa...they are next door to my office... Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Posted January 12, 2010 NAPA says they have em...7/16-20...$3 I'll get 4 on my lunch break and let ya know the p# Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 (edited) To All: I did my look up of the bleeder screw number using the Catlog that you can get if you go to Frank Mitchells at www.mmpar.com. If you can print this it is a good reference manual to go for replacement parts After getting to the home page select the link to Hotsheets, then scroll down and then you can click on his link to his online catalog. The nice part about this is that it has part numbers that you can reference and you can print off sections and also you can save it to your PC. It take this with me when I go to the flea markets and also Hershey. Rich Hartung Edited January 12, 2010 by desoto1939 Quote
TodFitch Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 NAPA says they have em...7/16-20...$3I'll get 4 on my lunch break and let ya know the p# I hope they work out to be correct for you. Looking forward to seeing the NAPA part number. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 13, 2010 Author Report Posted January 13, 2010 OK...so... the Part# is 6858 and its a 3/8 - 20. Worked fine! Only problem is, after doing all the "fun" work of replacing a line and putting the w cylinder in, I still have no brake pedal resistance. I realized I left the drum off..and when I stepped on the pedal to see if there was pressure...it blew the dang w cylinder left gasket and plunger out! DOH! !@#$ BUT, the right side of that cylinder seems to still be getting stuck(original problem)...that's why the left side blew out I'm guessing. If they were both freely moving it wouldn't have caused one plunger to shoot out. I guess that w cylinder is defective...maybe it just needs a simple honing. It was rusted stuck...which is why I never had such good brakes in the first place...the shoes were never evenly spreading on that hub. ANY SUGGESTIONS? HONE the dang thing a bit is my next step. Quote
TodFitch Posted January 13, 2010 Report Posted January 13, 2010 OK...so...the Part# is 6858 and its a 3/8 - 20. Worked fine! Only problem is, after doing all the "fun" work of replacing a line and putting the w cylinder in, I still have no brake pedal resistance. I realized I left the drum off..and when I stepped on the pedal to see if there was pressure...it blew the dang w cylinder left gasket and plunger out! DOH! !@#$ BUT, the right side of that cylinder seems to still be getting stuck(original problem)...that's why the left side blew out I'm guessing. If they were both freely moving it wouldn't have caused one plunger to shoot out. I guess that w cylinder is defective...maybe it just needs a simple honing. It was rusted stuck...which is why I never had such good brakes in the first place...the shoes were never evenly spreading on that hub. ANY SUGGESTIONS? HONE the dang thing a bit is my next step. I guess if its not pitted too badly then honing could help. What vehicle is this for? Your 1939 P7 or something else? Are new cylinders available (easiest route)? I had a some cylinders sleeved by: Sierra Specialty Automotive 3494 Chandler Rd. Quincy, CA 95971 Telephone: +1.530.283.1886 Fax: +1.530.283.4845 email: joe@brakecylinder.com http://www.brakecylinder.com/ and they came back in incredibly wonderful condition. I would like to confirm the vehicle you are working with so that I can cross reference that 3/8-24 threaded bleeder valve with a NAPA number of UP 6858 to the correct Chrysler part number on my database. Thanks! Quote
desoto1939 Posted January 13, 2010 Report Posted January 13, 2010 If the cylinder has some rust then trying honing it out to get it smooth. Then retry but put the drum on this time or get some one in the car to press the pedal a little to see if the right shoe moves out but do not push the brake pedal all the way to the floor. Put your had on the left shoe so as to get the right cup to get the pressure. Try this first and let us know what happens. Else either sleeve the cylinder or get NOS All 39 fit. Here are the EIS numbers for all 1939 Model Right front EIS 6126 mopar # 678157 Left front EIS 6125 678158 Right rear EIS 6128 678323 Left Rear EIS 6127 678324 Hope this get s you pbm solved Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
TodFitch Posted January 13, 2010 Report Posted January 13, 2010 ...snip...Here are the EIS numbers for all 1939 ModelRight front EIS 6126 mopar # 678157 Left front EIS 6125 678158 Right rear EIS 6128 678323 Left Rear EIS 6127 678324 ...snip... I've just added these to my database. I like it when the original Chrysler number is clearly given like this, it eliminates confusion on my part. Thanks! Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 13, 2010 Author Report Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks again guys. This forum has the best members around. Always a pleasure. TODFITCH, The bleeder valve from napa was 6858 and for my 39 roadking. DESOTO1939, Thanks for the advice and p#s Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Posted January 14, 2010 Update: New bleeder valve inside tip is not pointed like the original and may not seal properly. I'll let ya know. Quote
Powerhouse Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Posted January 27, 2010 it seems to seal fine... Quote
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