what i did in 5 hours. now questions?

[p24-1953]

okay heres a update. i was having 3 problems.

1st : the transmission would not stay in reverse or second.

2nd: the clutch pedal would only come half way up and would make this rum-rum-rum sound untill you picked the pedal all the way up with you foot.

3rd: an oil leak.

I have ordered a new transmission with overdrive from george ashce, and since it was raining and i didnt have anything else to do i decided to pull the old one out.

questions.

1) i noticed that the two half moon shaped bushings that go into the clutch mechanism were wallowed out where can i get new ones? would this explain the pedel not coming back up.

2)does the clutch look like it needed to be replaced? i was planing on having it redone any way since its out, but i am just curious...

[p24-1953]

okay heres a update. i was having 3 problems.

3)it looks like the oil leak is not from the o-ring between the adapter plate and the torque housing. where could this leak be coming from? could it be coming from the rear of the oil pan? or should i pull the torque convertor and see how the o rings look between the adapter plate. the manual says i need a special tool to pull the torque convertor? what is the special tool? it only looks like the is a 1" or so to get to these bolts? how do you do it?

4)after i pulled the drive shaft i pulled it out from under the car and put gouges on one side of the part that bolt to the transmission? is that enough to damage it or make it out of balance? do the boots look okay, or do they need to be replaced?

[p24-1953]

6) the torque housing looked dry inside so i take it that means the front and rear seals are still good? i noticed that they used a sealant not o-rings like the manual states. where can i get the orings? or is sealant okay? what type should i get?

7. rear motor mounts ... i think they look okay

8. seals on the torque convertor. by the lack of oil on the exterior i assumed they are still good.

9. you think i had a oil leak on the transmission?

last but not least there are more pictures at

http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/transmission/

it always helps when you have a helper

i thought it was funny that every bolt i pulled had the PDCD stamp on the head. im guess that means none of this stuff has been messed with.

[p24-1953]

i missed #5

5)where can you get a a boot for the clutch fork? is the inside of the clutch housing suposed to be slightly oily? is the gasket between the clutch housing and transmission supposed to be open like that on the bottom half? where do i get a new one? i only had 3 bolts holding the transmission on is this normal? how does the bearing look? it turn freely, does not seem to drag on anything.

[Jim Saraceno]

Wow, a lot of questions. I know zero about torque converters so I won't even weigh in on those.

I wouldn't think that scratching on your U-joints would hurt anything. The boots look like they are holding but are ready to go. They have some pretty deep cracks. I think I'd replace them while they were off.

I didn't see anything that looked to bad on the clutch but there was a recent thread by someone who sent their clutch off to Tennessee Clutch and they rebuilt the whole thing for under $100.

If the throw out bearing turns freely and doesn't drag, I'd say keep it. I've read the the newer ones are of lower quality so keep the older one as long as you can.

If you go the the download section there is a pattern for making a clutch boot. I would think a soft leather like suede would be a good material.

[Rodney Bullock]

Wow, we need you down here:) that's some good work, time well spent.

[martybose]

Looking at the clutch disk and the pressure plate, I believe that the disk is worn down to the rivet heads, and that there may be signs on the pressure plate that the rivet heads on that side are scraping on the surface. I would say that you need a new clutch disk, and that both the pressure plate surface and the flywheel surface should be ground as well.

Not being familiar with these trannys, is the flywheel surface bolted to the back of the torque convertor?

Marty

[B-Watson]

Being a 1953 torque converter (Hy-Drive) the oil for the torque converter comes from the engine. There are two oil lines (supply and return) in the engine block that line up with two similar lines in the bell housing. Needless to say, if the gasket where the two mate is faulty or non-existant you will have oil leaks.

Looks like the other end is okay, where the torque converter mates with the back of the bell housing.

You will get oil leaking out when you remove the bell housing from either the engine or the torque converter. So, were these leaks there before you started work?

Bill

Vancouver, BC

[bobjob55]

I'm just a old tractor mechanic,,but i say do as much as you can... yes replace the boot,, and clutch plate,, flywheel & p/plate resurface.. fix any leaks you can find.. if you have to get under and re/do anything you are going to be really REALLY mad..with that much crud that's built up on trans.. you had a small leak for quite a while...and once you clean the trans,, it will drip all over the floor and drive you crazy till you fix it..

[PatS....]

Fix/replace everything you can get at that might need replacement or repair. Unless you want to be pulling all that stuff apart again on a regular basis.

Like a TV guy here in Canada says..."Do it right the first time"

[p24-1953]

well im getting a new transmission so this one wont be inthe equation. i thin a lot of the oil came from the fact that there were only 3 bolts holding it on and it looks like the section of the gasket is missing.

yep the fly wheel is mated to the torque convertor housing.

i think i was lucky on the clutch plate the revits are still slightly recessed and have not gouged the plates yet.

where is the best place to get the transmission gasket?

[desoto1939]

My suggestion is to replace the Clutch plate and also the Pressure plate and throwout bearing. Since you have the unit out now is the time to put in the newer items. DId you make the Flywheel and PP and clutch so you can put them back in at the same location?

Also put in a new pilot bushing. Do it now since you have it apart. More times thenoften you will kick your self later on if you dont.

replace the boots on the drive shaft. or have a driveshaft repair center use the old shaft and then put on the modern cross style u joints. I have the miller tool to rest the ball part of the pin on your work bench and the tool that pushes out the pin and also set s the pin to the correct depth.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com