New Harness

[pflaming]

After months of inactivity, returned to finish the wiring. Took it a wire at a time, then a good sleeping bag and a big pillow and I went under/behind the dash. Dropped the guage cluster and switches down so I could see and. . . got it all working!!! THEN put the cluster back, and the switches in and . . . DOA! D____. So has to be a connection, back again tomorrow.

I sprayed the switches with an electical cleaner, do they need to dry out?

After all is back in and working again, is there something one can spray on the connections that 'seals' them?

Edited November 7, 2009 by pflaming

[norrism1]

pflaming,

"After all is back in and working again, is there something one can spray on the connections that 'seals' them?

Dialectric grease lightly dabed on will prevent most corrosion from starting. Same thing you put in the bulb sockets. Little packet at auto parts store counters for $1.75.

[pflaming]

Grease the light sockets? That is a new one. How much and where? Mine are dry, dry, dry.

Is it possible to test the gas tank float/trigger to see if it and the gauge are working?

[TodFitch]

Grease the light sockets? That is a new one. How much and where? Mine are dry, dry, dry.

Is it possible to test the gas tank float/trigger to see if it and the gauge are working?

I think putting grease in the the electrical connectors, including light sockets, is a relatively new practice. I don't recall it prior to the late 1970s or early 80s. It is a good idea though as it will keep out the moisture that causes corrosion.

Testing procedure for the gas gauge is in the service manual.

[norrism1]

Grease the light sockets? That is a new one. How much and where? Mine are dry, dry, dry.QUOTE]

pflaming,

I've used it on the connector pins and sockets for the tow hitch as well. Even when connected the two metal surfaces will corrode and cause a "film"(?) between them and degrade connectivity. Cheap form of insurance especially on the older vehicles that are not sealed as the newer ones. For the price it can't hurt or hinder.

[pflaming]

Norris and Todd, thank you. I have never worked on cars so all this is new and very helpful. I followed Greybeards layouts for the harness. Thanks to him also.

[pflaming]

Found my problem, loose connection. To those who know these old trucks, you may ignor the following. This electical sytem is very simple. One hot wire from the battery to the starter. From the starter one wire to the coil, and one#10 wire to the amp meter.

The Amp meter is the junction to all else: one wire to the light switch, one wire to the electric wiper switch, one wire to the heater, and one wire to the turn signal switch, one to the ignition key.

Off of the back of the light switch, the hot side, one wire goes to the brake switch. Off of the front, one wire to the panel switch and four wires to the park and brake lights.

There are no fuses!

It is interesting to learn how this all works. Now some trucks may be wired differently but that is how mine is wired. Wire like this, the engine electrical is not connected to anything else and thus it is protected.

If this account is a bit basic and boring, well, OK; I just had a nice learning experience. FUN!

Now I am going to add two more lights in the back and front for my turn signals and keep that system separate from the tail lights. Will also print this out and put it in the glove box for future reference; got short term memory loss syndrome.

[carl b51]

Paul it's good to see you are working on the truck again. The only thing these guys didn't tell you was the Grease that was used was silicone based in the 70,s sounds like it is coming along Keep it up. Carl

[pflaming]

Carl, funny how things work. After figuring it all out, I found an e-mail from greybeard, from SOME months back and he said exactly what I 'discovered'. I think sometimes it gets a bit overwhelming and a clear message, like greybeards, just doesn't register.

Now one more try on the engine. Back when, I only had 25#s of compression on seven cylinders and 50 on the other. I couldn't get it to run despite all of greybeard's coaching and encouragement. So about two months ago I put some transmission oil in each cylinder, an older 'old school' mechanic suggested that, and ever so often I gave the engine a few rev's. Last week I retested and have 50#'s at each!!! Going for the engine next week.

Wish me luck.

[grey beard]

Paul,

Good to hear you are active in your shop again. Please check to make sure that you did NOT run a wire from your starter to- your coil, as you said you had. So doing would make the ignition system active 24/7, and make shutting down a little problematic. Power should go from the right side of the ammeter to the switch, and thence to the coil.

Did you look at the notes and drawings in the "Pilot's Knowledge" section of this forum? It may be helpful, if you have not seen it.

Good Luck

[pflaming]

"did NOT run a wire from your starter to- your coil,". Greybead, thankyou for the reminder. I have the ig switch inactive for now, but I have the wire from the starter to the coil on clips to serve as a quick shut down.

Will review the section you mentioned, I also dug out your former notes. Thankyou. Just got to follow them.

Got some time, going to see if I can get it running. It occured to me that with the doghouse off, I can drive the truck, not legal of course but up and down the alley. . . So the doghouse goes off next, then to the engine, lots less stretching and maybe a few less aches.