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Bench Buffing/Polishing Choices?


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Posted

I have the red rouge for silver/gold etc...I have a large block of the white for about everything else however I did buy special a tube of green that is specially formulated for the stainless and rest assured when compared to the white block...this stuff is "green lightening"..I bought this stuff at a swap meet..

Posted

Bob,

You really don't need a buffer to get the paint off the stainless. I bought a set of 53 Plymouth full wheel hubcaps at a swap meet that are stainless. Two of them had a lot of over spray paint on them. The others were just covered in dirt. All I used to clean them all was an SOS pad. Came out real nice, and there are no scratches, and shine real nice. I also use SOS pads on the stainless on my coupe. Never scratches and always nice and bright. You just have to keep a fresh soapy pad and use lots of water with it. Works like a charm and a lot easier than buffing. Also use the SOS pads on my bumpers without a problem.

Posted

It is recommended that you let the piece get warm to hot as this will keep the compound from coming off the buffs and sticking to the trim. I always wear gloves. Downside of glove is the possibility of getting cutting compound in with polishing compound from the gloves. Cross contamination of compounds will affect the outcome so don't let them mix. Remember that it is not the buffing wheel that does the work but the compound. Apply compound often to the buffers. I use a lot of compound when I'm cutting and not as much when I'm doing the final polishing. Do not mix compounds on a single buff but get buffs for each compound. Harder, spiral sewn buffs for cutting, soft loose buffs for polishing/coloring.

Also you need to "rake" out the buffers once in a while. You will see that the buffing wheels will take on a metallic look. The compound has taken in a lot of particles from the stainless and has coated the buffing wheel. The buffer will not do its job in this condition. The buffer now needs to have all the compound taken off and a new coat applied. They sell a rake tool with lots of 1/4 inch teeth to do this. I just use a old screwdriver and move it back and forth while the buffer is working.

Always wear a mask as breathing this stuff is very bad for you.

For deep scratches, something you can feel with your fingernail, use a pointed pick hammer from the back side to gently push out the scratch. Then you can then use a fine file to cut the scratch out. Then go through 100 grit to 1500 paper with a sanding block in that area.

When cutting buffing, use a cross cut pattern. That is, buff in one direction and then buff in a X type pattern in the other direction. This will keep you from cutting grooves in you trim.

For final color buffing, go in just one direction the long way of the trim. For the final time, I will pull the trim piece lightly in one direction along the buffer stating at one end to the other.

I would not use steel wool on stainless as it will scratch it. If there is overspray on it, use some lacquer thinner on a rag to dissolve it.

A perfect mirror finish is a lot of work and hard to get but you will be amazed on how much better the trim will look even if it is not perfect. I encourage anyone to buff out the stainless themselves as it isn't really that hard and the results are wonderful.;)

Posted
Tim I need to buff some plastic headlight lenses. Tips? what type of compound do you use? Also I mentioned above I bought the harbor freight buffer and stand which is true however I bought my supplies from eastwood. I didn't trust their 1.99 stuff

Young Ed, I used toothpaste with the car waxer\buffer on the wifes headlights. Went from yellow to clear in no time. Best part was the toothpast was free from the hotel when I used to travel for work.

Posted
Young Ed, I used toothpaste with the car waxer\buffer on the wifes headlights. Went from yellow to clear in no time. Best part was the toothpast was free from the hotel when I used to travel for work.

Bet your headlights smelled "fresh" when you were done:D

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