Eastwood paint

[sorensen_dk]

Gentlemen,

I'm sure some of you have tried Eastwood Chassis Black or Underhood Black. What type of primer did you use and how well did it hold up?

Thanks,

Tom

[55 Fargo]

Does East wood sell a primer, for this purpose.

Is the intended metal you plan to paint, clean, sandblasted, or rusty or just wire brushed?

If you have clean metal you could either use, 2 k epoxy primer, or something like Rustoleum's rusty metal primer, the Rusty metal primer needs to be good and cured before you paint over it with a different system, but it is a tough primer. The epoxy primer you can rer=coat within the window, or you may have to scuff it up, prior to painting it.

If you do a decent prep, use quality primer, your Eastwood paint should last a long time.

I would guess you would only drive your car in summer, not in winter with high mositure,snow/slush/salt etc..............Fred near Gimli, Manitoba, largest Population of Icelandic people outside of Iceland Islendingadagurinn

Edited August 3, 2009 by Rockwood

[Joe Flanagan]

It's a good question. I haven't heard any reports on Chassis Black. I used Zero Rust on my frame and the underside of the floors. Looks good when you first apply it but it gets dull in time. It's not meant to be pretty, in any case. It's meant to encapsulate rust and does a great job at that. It's extremely tough. I've had it on the underside of my car for seven years and it's there for good. I've bumped it, gouged it, scraped it, etc. and it's actually got a little bit of give to it, which makes it stronger, I think. It doesn't chip or flake. Grabs the metal like crazy. If you hit it hard enough, you'll expose the metal, sure, but still, it's tough paint.

[cwcars88]

Eastwood Chassis Black can be used over bare metal or primer. For increased adhesion and durability prime with Extreme Chassis Black primer aerosol

( 11193z) wait 15 min to 1 hr and top coat with Extreme Chassis Black. Do not use self-etching primers.

I used regular Chassis Black ( they didn't have the extreme out jet) in 1980 on my model "A" it is driven year round rain or shine and has over 20,000 miles on it and the frame looks as good as it did then. It is a heavy bodied paint with great coverage.

[Plymouthy Adams]

if they recommend an aerosol..you can use any good primer that you mix yourself and be well on your way. Being a chassis however and if you are not in a hurry..the application of the Rustoleum metal primer is superb for this application..in the few places you may have had rust or very light discoloration of rust..the rusty metal primer will convert this on application..HOWEVER and do remember this, the rusty metal primer oil base is designed to use on rusty surfaces...the oil that is NOT ABSORBED into a rusty surface must pass through the primer and evaporate off the surface..this is a 10-14 day process inside a shop in average temp and humidity conditions...DO allow this process to complete prior to topcoat...it is an excellent product when used in the correct manner..the modern primers and such are designed for fast production methods that get a car in and out of the body shop the fastest possible thus their formulation and higher cost..time is money in that business...the Rustoleum gloss black paint is also excellent at a fraction of the cost of the speciality paint and you can add fisheye eliminator and catalizer to protect against chips and UV fade plus it glosses like you read about..mix 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener (I use Evercoat generic enamel hardner) thin the mix with quality enamel reducer (not mineral spirits) to a viscosity to match your nozzle on your spray gun.

[55 Fargo]

if they recommend an aerosol..you can use any good primer that you mix yourself and be well on your way. Being a chassis however and if you are not in a hurry..the application of the Rustoleum metal primer is superb for this application..in the few places you may have had rust or very light discoloration of rust..the rusty metal primer will convert this on application..HOWEVER and do remember this, the rusty metal primer oil base is designed to use on rusty surfaces...the oil that is NOT ABSORBED into a rusty surface must pass through the primer and evaporate off the surface..this is a 10-14 day process inside a shop in average temp and humidity conditions...DO allow this process to complete prior to topcoat...it is an excellent product when used in the correct manner..the modern primers and such are designed for fast production methods that get a car in and out of the body shop the fastest possible thus their formulation and higher cost..time is money in that business...the Rustoleum gloss black paint is also excellent at a fraction of the cost of the speciality paint and you can add fisheye eliminator and catalizer to protect against chips and UV fade plus it glosses like you read about..mix 8 parts paint to 1 part hardener (I use Evercoat generic enamel hardner) thin the mix with quality enamel reducer (not mineral spirits) to a viscosity to match your nozzle on your spray gun.

I have to agree with Tim 100%, the use of Rustoleum primer and topcoats, for frames floors insdie fenders, trailers etc with the addition of quality reducer and Hardner is excellent.

I works well lasts long, is very compatible with most paints, once fully cured, would not hessitate to use these products as Tim has described.

I don't think Eastwood's products are any better than this, and the Rustoleum products cost a fraction of the price as Eastwoods, POR 15 etc............................Only my opinion

[sorensen_dk]

Thanks for your valuable input. I will try the Eastwood paint first since I have a couple of cans sitting on the shelf. Checked out some older threads on Rustolium - very interesting! I'm painting on fresh clean metal.

[Joe Flanagan]

Post some pictures when you get around to it.