Interior Insutlation/Sound Deadener

[55 Fargo]

Hi all, has anyuone besides Greg used and is currently using bubble duct insulation, and self adhesive rubber membrane sheets on their cars.

I am planning to use this stuff.

Greg, this stuff looks good on your Stude Truck, I am planning to use this on my roof, and floors too.

I am just trying to see if anyone else has tried or is using these home building products onm there cars.............Fred

[grey beard]

Hi Fred,

Back last winter, before I did the inside of my cab, I found a very interesting forum discussion on the Hot Rod Magazine forum called Lizard Skin Alternative. Lizard Skin is a commercial sound and insulation compound that can be painted onto things, and which is VERY pricey. This discussion revolved around the fact that several engineers had discovered a way to duplicate this formula for like pennies on the dollar - my kind of thinking, for sure.

The discussion led on to other good ways of insulating our vehicle bodies. Several of these guys were engineers, and did a lot of critical thinking on the issue. They installed different combinations of stuff and actually measured the heat difference it made. I'm sure you can find this forum thread and read it all if you have interest - mebby this coming winter when we're all stuck indoors.

The bottom line of all their palaver was that what seemed to work best for everyone and give max bang for the buck was a combination of Peel'nSeal, a butyl rubber roofing product made for roof valleys and gutters, used on sheet metal as a sound deadener, followed by the foil bubble wrap made to insulate hvac duct work. They found this bubble insulation worked best when not put against the metal directly. All this stuff is available from Lowes and Home Depot.

I used this recipe on my own cab and am very pleased. It is much quieter and cooler inside - noticeably different than before. I also glued a layer of 5/8-inch thick carpet foam pad inside the foil bubble insulation for a three-layer sandwich. Wish you could see/feel it. It's amazing.

Most amazing is that the whole enchalada cost me less than $100 bukkz, AND I still had enough stuff left over to do half of my brother's 48 Ford pickup cab, as well.

For anyone who follows this route, you want to use the spray insulation that is number 90. There are two 3M grades lower than this, but it doesn't last. This stuff costs like $18 bucks a spray can, but is the only thing that won't let material come loose over time - especially when you're gluing it overhead. Might not need it on the floor, but I used it there, too.

Such a deal . . . . . .

[hkestes41]

Fred,

Check out his thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51399&highlight=home+depot+insulation&page=5 from the HAMB. Starting with pot #94 on the 5th page 63ChevyII does some fairly indepth testing on various methods.

I used the home made Lizzard Skin, followed by Peal-N-Seal then a layer of foil backed insulation from JC Whitney and am very happy with the results. I have not done the roof section yet but did everything else inside the car.

To make the Lizzard Skin i ordered 2 bags of the micro beads from Wickes Aircraft and mixed it with elastomeric roofing paint from Home Depot. The elastomeric paint is somewhat rubbery when dry so I thought it may help with noise. I live in Texas and the Peal-N-Seal has gone through 2 summers with multiple 100 degree days in a black car. So far I have only one piece of the Peal-N-Seal come loose. That was on the kick panel where the factory had all the large open areas so there was not a lot for it to grip onto.

I did use my wife's hair drier to heat the sticky side of the Peal-N-Seal before sticking it down and am convinced that this is the reason it has stuck so well.

Again, I am very happy with mine, heat through the floor and firewall were cut significantly as was the noise inside the car. The door also sound much more substantial when they are closed now.

Last thig is that some claim Peal-N-Seal smells like tar, I have not had this issue even in the Texas heat.

[greg g]

I made my sandwich the other way, put the foil down, cut it about 2 inches smaller than the area covered, and then used the adhesive membrane to hold it down. Used a wall paper seam roller to put some pressure on the mastic. Its stuck down pretty good.

Been working on the cab and headliner. used a piee of foam left over from under the house siding for the main part of the roof, used the bubble stuff for surrounding that.

Starting to work on the headliner. Got some of the board the Bob T mentioned from Hobby Lobby, It was onsale for 3 bucks a sheet. Using some rosin paper to make patterns, put up some metal strips, I will put in some screws and nuts from the top as studs facing down and will hold up the center headliner panel with acorn nuts The center panel and outer panels will anchor the suplemental side pieces. Got some 2 dollar a yard fabric from the mall. Interior will be two tone, then I will probably dye the gray seat to match.

[PatS....]

I used Peel N Seal on the doors of my 88 Dodge truck. Also on the inside of the door panels. Great stuff, easy to work with and cheap as heck.

Made a 100% difference in sound deadening.

It did smell faintly like asphalt for a week or so but then went away.

Some people have said that in time it will dry out and become like potato chips. Likely not in my lifetime but even so, I wouldn't put it anywhere that would be impossible to get to later, like under the headliner.

I think if a guy can afford it, a coat of Rhinoliner under the roof would deaden sound and would never come down.

Fred, in Canada the Peel N Seal is a different name. I'll check my roll and see what it's called. Same stuff, same maker.

[Frank Blackstone]

The high end custom interior shops I consulted said they used the roll insulation from Lowe's which is for cheap. Looks like what has been show in aforementioned pictures

[55 Fargo]

Thanx Guys for your help, probably gonna go Greg's route with this......