grey beard Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 Man, changing oil filters with the MoPar bypass filter system is really a messy deal. I have my canister rotated so the drain plug on it is at the outboard-most point away from the engine, yet when I drained it today, oil hit the end of the starter, the block edge above the oil pan, etc., before it finally got to the drain pan underneath. Can it be that I am the only pilgrim in the woods with this problem? Surely to goodness there must be a more sanitary solution to this rediculous mess - short of using a suction gun, which is also quite messy, as I remember. Maybe a pet cock on the filter canister drain with a hose down the side of the block so as to contain the mess at least a small amount . . . Maybe a remote filter base on the firewall that takes an F-8 Fram spin-on filter. Already have this base and filter, so I may just buy a little plumbing and go that route. My opinion - for a filter that is only part-time, and only filters a small percentage of the oil at any time - when it is working - they are certainly a mess to change. No wonder so many good old boys who drove these things back in the day put off their oil and filter changes. Maybe if I make a bracket for the spin-on filter and mount it low on the engine block behind the distributor, I can reach up and service it while dropping the oil from the pan - sorta' keep the mess all in one place, as it were. Surely there is a better way than this . . . . Any pregnant suggestions? Quote
MBF Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 Merle-I do just what Norm does, but I was also thinking of using the adapter that Gravely used to convert from the cannister style filter to the spin on. Probably a better filter media (don't know if that makes a lot of difference on a bypass) but the replacent filters are less than half price of the old type. I only really put enough miles on both of my old Mopars to do an annual filter change so I'm not sure if it'd be cost effective or not. Mike Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 20, 2009 Report Posted May 20, 2009 Merle-I do just what Norm does, How 'bout that... I got pulled into this thread before I could even read it. I place a small container under the filter drain plug for it to drain into. Then you can remove the filter without making a mess. I also hold a small drain pan close to drop the filter into after pulling it out of the canister. I just did that a few weeks ago and didn't make a mess. Merle Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted May 21, 2009 Report Posted May 21, 2009 I use the petcock method that replaces the drain plug . There is a brass nipple soldered onto the petcock that I slip a hose on and catch the oil down below . Quote
woodscavenger Posted May 21, 2009 Report Posted May 21, 2009 Change the oil? I just keep my oil pan leaky enough that I need to put new oil in about once a month. Keeps it clean! (That's what Im telling myself until I can get that new gasket done.) Quote
John-T-53 Posted May 21, 2009 Report Posted May 21, 2009 My rear main seal was leaky enough so I could do the same. When the engine was taken apart, the seal wasn't even touching the crank! My driveway probably has about 5 oil changes worth on it. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted May 21, 2009 Report Posted May 21, 2009 My rear main seal was leaky enough so I could do the same. When the engine was taken apart, the seal wasn't even touching the crank! My driveway probably has about 5 oil changes worth on it. That's called "dust control". Quote
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