Karl Childers Posted March 12, 2009 Report Posted March 12, 2009 1940 Dodge D14, flathead 6, speed on the column...getting a grinding after shifting into 3rd gear...to best describe the sound and chatter i would compare it to throwing an auto car into park while its still rolling. It is LOUD...like spines not correctly lining up and the teeth grinding or something...even when throwing the car in neutral it still does it until the car slows down and it goes away...but it does it everytime. - i have had a few other people on other boards mention front u-joints? some say bearings, others say teeth on gears...i do not know. trans fluid is full, everything goes into gear good and all gears work, no grinding when shifting and everything seems to function besides the issue above. if you look closely in the pics you can see the cable that runs down from the shifter, it has an adjustable nut/threaded rod end at the tip of the cable and it seems that someone in the past may have added a few oversized nuts as spacers inbetween there, does anyone local want to go through this trans for me and look it over...i will PAY you for your time, if it needs a rebuild or a part(s) replaced i will get them if available...local?? i do not know much or anything about manual trans' i am located near chicago (midway airport) and have no problem covering travel costs and gas, lunch/dinner/drinks or whatever to have someone with exp. with these come take a look...i have a heated garage, air tools, jacks, lighting, many specialty tool and whatnot to get this trans out and gone through... PLEASE HELP!!!!! i am new these cars and new to manual trans'...this is crazy trying to find parts for this...i cant even seem to find a place to order them from or someone who wants to look at it being local. Quote
claybill Posted March 12, 2009 Report Posted March 12, 2009 calma - calm - calma - my good chicago friend.!!! it seems that maybe an adjustment is all that is needed on the rods.. or ; any and all parts are readily available through ply/dodge parts houses. a whole new/used tranny is $200 give or take and not hard to take out.. lots of mechanics out there...in a week from now you will have a dozen good answers!!! bill Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Posted March 12, 2009 im hoping so, i have some cash and would gladly buy a new one if this one needed work rather than a simple adjustment which im really praying is the problem. hopefully someone local or somewhat local will chime in and help me out! i need someone who knows these thing to physically look at it and see/hear/experience my problem in action. Quote
old woolie Posted March 12, 2009 Report Posted March 12, 2009 Yes, there is probably nothing too serious wrong with it. Maybe just needs tinkering and adjusting by someone who knows manual transmission's and clutch adjustment's. Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 12, 2009 Author Report Posted March 12, 2009 well atleast you guys are raising my spirits some, lol...i was really upset the day i got it up to "speed" of sorts and it started the grinding. as far as linkage/rods, i only see one rod that is used on the trans and the cable...the cable moves a bracket forwards and backward as you pull or push on the shifter, its a little tight though. and the single rod moves left and right as you shift the shifter up and or down...it is weird how this works...i have done some crazy swaps, had race cars, lowriders, air and hydraulic suspension vehicles and more but am terrified to attempt to tear into this alone. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I agree with the others, sounds like a few adjustments is all that's needed. Usually chatter is caused by an improper clutch adjustment or worn clutch. Could also have a bad throw out bearing in the clutch if it keeps spinning after it's in neutral. Nothing serious if that's all it is. Just about any old time mechanic can replace the clutch. That said, if you've built race cars, etc., don't let these cars intimate you. They are whole lot simpler to work on than your race cars. The biggest problem you seem to be having is diagnosing the problem now. The best thing to do at this point if no one is close enough for a look, is to buy a service manual for your car. It will have a diagnoses section for each section of the book. Will also tell you how to rebuild the transmission and other things in the car. Would also be good to buy a parts manual. Those have blow up pictures of the parts, with the part numbers. Contact Crankin Hope for these books, they are listed in the vendors section of the main p15-d24 site. There are other places to pick up the books too, like ebay etc. With those two books, you could tear the engine or transmission down completely just about anywhere and fix it. Several years ago, we even had one guy on the forum break down with a blown head gasket half way between New York and Utah. He bought a head gasket from a parts store and replaced it in the parking lot in just a few hours, then continued his trip home to Utah. Quote
Captain Neon Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Karl, I had what appeared to be an adjustment situation last spring. My '46 Plymouth progressively got harder and harder over the course of about two years to shift into third gear until finally it wouldn't shift into third at all. I ended up getting the transmission rebuilt and replaced the clutch since it was apart any ways. As much as we would all like to hope that your ol' Dodge just needs to be adjusted, I am gonna guess that there is a good reason that the PO decided to sell the car other than just losing interest. Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 but where the hell do i get the clutch from for this car? no shop wants anything to do with the car cause they dont know the cars...those who will look t it cant promise me the parts can be found. Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 like i said, i will buy a new but used trans if i could find one...or pay someone to help me out or even a shop who could do it...but it would have to be within a reasonable distance...the car can be driven and 30-35 mph but thats about it before it starts grinding like hell, so i can drop it off somewhere to be worked on but have had no luck on that route so far. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 You're in Chicago. Closest place to get a whole new clutch from would probably be Fort Wayne Clutch, Fort Wayne, IN., straight across I-94. I'm in Milwaukee and got mine from them in just 3 days. Parts are not hard to find. Just ask us and someone will be able to tell you where to get the stuff you need. If Ft. Wayne does not have your particular clutch in stock, they will rebuild yours in just a few days and ship it back to you. Quote
steveplym Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Many parts options on the main site. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/linksframeset.html Other than that try: http://www.robertsmotorparts.com http://www.oldmoparts.com http://www.kanter.com http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 like i said, i will buy a new but used trans if i could find one...or pay someone to help me out or even a shop who could do it...but it would have to be within a reasonable distance...the car can be driven and 30-35 mph but thats about it before it starts grinding like hell, so i can drop it off somewhere to be worked on but have had no luck on that route so far. Now, this post suggest possibly something else other than the clutch or transmission. You may have a problem with the rearend instead of clutch or transmission based on this post. Or.........it may only need a little fluid in the rearend since it only happens after it's warmed up. There is a plug on the pumpkin. Remove that and stick you finger in to see if you can feel any fluid in there. The fluid level should be up to the bottom of the plug hole. It is also possible that the fluid is the wrong kind, or just too dirty and thick to do it's job. In which case, just change the fluid and see what happens. Remember, noise will travel through the chassis and drive gear like the drive shaft, so it's hard to tell where it's really coming from. Won't hurt to check the fluid either way. Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Whats a clutch going for these days?? Quote
rearview Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Wow... that "nut job" on the cable area is ghetto-fabulous. I'd guess that is where the problem lies... wrong length cable, maybe not putting car into gear all the way... making the teeth chatter if not full engaged into gear. If you put it into 3rd, does it pull that "nutty mess" ? If so, you can try manually engaging it further and see if it changes the symptom. That thing doens't have OD, does it?? Be patient... there's plenty of folks in this area... let me check my schedule. I live near the state line (the cheddar curtain) and work in Wauconda. EDIT: If this is the same trans as a 48, I've got a spare that came with the motor I jsut bought. Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 Now' date=' this post suggest possibly something else other than the clutch or transmission. You may have a problem with the rearend instead of clutch or transmission based on this post. Or.........it may only need a little fluid in the rearend since it only happens after it's warmed up. There is a plug on the pumpkin. Remove that and stick you finger in to see if you can feel any fluid in there. The fluid level should be up to the bottom of the plug hole. It is also possible that the fluid is the wrong kind, or just too dirty and thick to do it's job. In which case, just change the fluid and see what happens.Remember, noise will travel through the chassis and drive gear like the drive shaft, so it's hard to tell where it's really coming from. Won't hurt to check the fluid either way.[/quote'] yeah, the chatter is felt in the gas, brake, and clutch pedal and is definitely coming from bellhousing area...thats why i can think u-joints or rearend... i checked the motor oil when i got the car, full and fresh, just tuned up...then was told check trans fluid, full and looked good...i havent checked the rear though but i would assume last owner went through it or atleast topped it off...i will drain them and fill both trans, and rear though with fresh fluid... i read in the Motors book that the trans fluid is 90w gearoil or something like that depending on summer/winter? anyone know the oil in the rear specs? is it also 90w gear oil? Quote
Karl Childers Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 Wow... that "nut job" on the cable area is ghetto-fabulous. I'd guess that is where the problem lies... wrong length cable, maybe not putting car into gear all the way... making the teeth chatter if not full engaged into gear. If you put it into 3rd, does it pull that "nutty mess" ? If so, you can try manually engaging it further and see if it changes the symptom. That thing doens't have OD, does it??Be patient... there's plenty of folks in this area... let me check my schedule. I live near the state line (the cheddar curtain) and work in Wauconda. EDIT: If this is the same trans as a 48, I've got a spare that came with the motor I jsut bought. i have not tried to put it in gear further from the nuut cable contraption. i will definitely try that...it does seem as though 3rd gear drives good until maybe it kinda "falls" out of gear? it does seem like it could be something like this. Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 80 or 90W sounds right for the trans and rear. Dezeldoc, Not sure what Ft. Wayne Clutch charges for the clutch today. I bought mine back in late 1998. Back then it ran me around $120 with the shipping of my old one in, and the shipping cost on the new one. But........that's going to be a lot more shipping cost out to where you are. Quote
claybill Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 all trans should be the same up to mid fifties or so.....bell housings change a little to aapt to the arms that work the shifting units..that can be frustrating.. be calm. there are plenty of fixit places..once you get around! #1...get the motor number from your motor. starts with a D--------- NOT the casting numbers. only then will we know what you are dealing with, and where to start. #2...OPT FOR A USED TRANNY. PULL THE OLD ONE..DROP IN THE NEW ONE and hook it up. hooking it up is a trick..adjustments etc. then fix the old one for a spare! clutch and c/discs are easily on ebay. or rebuild yours. send it out. keep watching this forum..solutions will come your way....soon enough. bill Quote
Joe Flanagan Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Gear oil for the rear end is 90W. All your clutch parts are available at any of the vendors listed on this site. Quote
dezeldoc Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Wow looks like most all the clutches are around 225.00 give or take a few bucks!! Glad their is a rebuilder 45 minutes from me, gonna cost me a LOT less than that! Quote
rearview Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Looking at a tranny I have here, I think that lower cable is supposed to be a linkage rod. That is for the selector, it needs to be maintained in position. Can anyone confirm this? Quote
Young Ed Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I know the first couple years of column shift used a cable. 39 was the first year for that. Not sure if it lasted to 41. Quote
rearview Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I know the first couple years of column shift used a cable. 39 was the first year for that. Not sure if it lasted to 41. Is it approprite to comment on the stupidity of that design? :D Quote
Young Ed Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I've heard once its setup properly it works just as well as the shifting rods. Quote
Lou Earle Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 you pic indicats cas#85 38 53. My interchange book says any plymouth dodge chrysleer desoto trans will interchange -40 thru 48 I probably hve one laying around if you cannot find one up there Lou Quote
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